knife maintenance questions

D

DOC-CANADA

Joined
Apr 14, 2006
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Well, since you all have gotten me hooked on Bucks again, the least you can do is help me out with a few questions :o . I have a Buck 112 (1988), that has sat in the drawer for quite awhile. In needs some TLC. Is it ok to use Brasso to polish up the bolsters and what about the wood scales?

Second question, I bought a Buck Dorado 270 a few weeks ago (thanks to (Buck) fever :( ) and I really like it. I bought it as an EDC and started carrying it in my pocket, but the loose change, etc., has taken a bit of the finish of the scales - looks like maybe some kind of laquer?. What would be the best thing to touch it up with? I know you should carry it in the sheath to prevent this, but I don't like the sheath (security issue) and it does ride well in my pocket. If touching up is not feasible, are replacement scales available, or should I contact Buck? I guess I could send it to them, their customer service has been highly praised here, but it's not worth sending it back (cost of postage, time with no Dorado in pocket, etc., not to mention crazy customs people). I also have been thinking about removing the scales altogether. Has anybody else done this, and if so, how do you like it? Thanks in advance for any help on these issues.

Doc
 
Brasso will definitely clean up the bolsters, but I've had a hard time cleaning the residue out of the grain in the wood on folders. (y'know how it is, no matter how careful you are, some polishing compound always ends up on the scales.) It looks nasty when the blade is really shiny but you can see goop dried in the tight spaces and wood-grain. I found out the hard way a long time ago, using a toothbrush or simliar to clean it out only leaves scratches on the metal you just polished.

I've had much better luck lately with Nevr Dull. It's kind of hard to explain... it's sort of a can of tough but soft cotton(?) wadding, soaked in some kind of polish. You just tear off a piece of the wadding and scrub the knife with it.

It may not take severe tarnish off brass, I haven't tried it for that. But for "mild" tarnish on brass, nickel silver and blade steel, it works very well. Plus, all you have to do is rub it down with a clean soft rag when you're done scrubbing and it doesn't leave a nasty chalky residue in the woodgrain or in between the liners, etc. Hand-rubbing in this manner only takes a couple minutes and the metal really shines when you're done.

So far, I've used Nevr Dull on my old Buck 110 (brass bolsters), an '05 501 (NS bolsters) and a really beat up Ka-Bar with pakkawood handles.
It did a nice job on all the metals, and shined up the woods on each of them without gumming them up or making them feel too slick.

BTW my Ka-Bar has a polished 1095 blade, not black-coated like most. Nevr-Dull cleaned it up nicely, but did NOT remove the grey streaks/stains in the blade. Those streaks came from almost 20 years of rough use and being stored in a leather sheath, and I think only a serious re-buffing would take them out. My Ka-Bar still has the grey streaks, but the steel in between the tarnish gleams like chrome.
 
Brasso will work on the bolsters and blade, but Maas or Simichrome seams to work better for me. I also rub a couple of drops of boiled linseed oil on the wood handles to keep them looking good.
 
Brasso works well to clean up and polish the blade and metal fittings. Afterwards wipe the knife clean and give it a light coating of gun oil and wipe down with a rag afterwards. A bit of gun oil in the moving parts of folders will keep the parts from sticking for smooth action.
 
I use never dull on the brass. It's fast and doesn't remove any of the brass in the process.
 
Arguing online is like competing in the Special Olympics... even if you win, you're still a retard.
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Thats not right, you should apoligise to all the little pigmys loyal to Larry the Cable Guy.
Porky
 
I have used TRU-OIL on my gun stocks. I wonder how it would do on knife handles.
 
DOC-CANADA said:
Thanks everyone, for the replies. I guess, now, it's time to get to work. Doc
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Hi DOC - here is a posting from a another buck nut ... long as most of mine are but well worth reading...

Buck_110 said:
I mainly just lurk in BladeForums, but after reading many peoples questions on the best way to store their knives, I can 100% guarantee the two products below cannot be beat. I have been using them for years now, and not one of my knives has ever developed even a single micron of rust.

The first product can be found at: break-free.com
It is called Collector. A description from their website can be found below. It has the viscosity of 30W motor oil. A little on a flannel cloth is all you need. Just wipe any and all metal so that a thin sheen is visible.

Collector Liquid provides a protective coating against rust and corrosion on metal to metal finishes; no need to remove before use.

-Developed for military use to protect weapons for up to 5 years in storage.
-Exceeds military requirements for rust and corrosion protection.
-Unique 100% synthetic oil formulation with multiple high performance anti- rust and corrosion inhibitors.
-Will not break down to form waxy residues under heat or with age. Contains no wax or mineral oil.
-Protects up to five years. Lab test results show over 1,200 hours of rust and corrosion protection on mild steel panels when exposed to 100% humidity at 93 degrees with out developing even one micro of rust.
-Does not have to be removed before firing; always "grab and go" combat ready condition.
-Safe for use on all metals and finishes.
-Ideal to protect gun collections, knives, swords, and sports equipment.

The second product can be found at: kleen-bore.com
They are called The Inhibitor Storage Bag. A description from their website can be found below. Once you have put a sheen on all of the metal, place it in one of these bags.

The Inhibitor
As Featured in
American Rifleman
The Inhibitor Storage Bag is ideal for long term storage of your firearm, particularly in humid areas. The Inhibitor Bag Releases VCI (Vapor Corrosion Inhibitors), eliminating the potential for your firearm to rust while it is not being used. The Inhibitor Bags will release the VCI’s for up to three years, and the bag can be opened and reused during that time. Available for handgun and long gun.

The 6 mil. Inhibitor storage bags provide long-term corrosion protection for all your valuable firearms or other metal possessions. These unique bags incorporate the technology of Vapor Corrosion Inhibitors (VCI’s) to blanket your firearms with an invisible shield from corrosive atmospheres for up to three years. This combination of VCI protection and moisture absorbing desiccant action protects against normal humidity and oxidizing atmospheres as well as corrosive marine and tropical environments. Items stored in the Inhibitor storage bags are always ready for immediate use. This technology provides full corrosion protection, without the need to clean or degrease prior to use. Available for handguns and long guns.

I can promise you will be very happy with this combination. The knives come out looking just as they went in...every time; guaranteed. All of my knives, including my Damascus 110s look like they did the day they left the Buck factory. The brass will NOT tarnish whatsoever in these bags as well. If you shine the brass up with NEVR-DULL, it will come out of the bag with the same brilliant, un-tarnished shine it went in with. Granted, other polishes such as Brasso and such shine pretty well, but NEVR-DULL leaves NO residue whatsoever.

The Collector Liquid from BREAK-FREE will not harm the handle scales whatsoever. Although I do not intentionally coat the scales, I have of course gotten it on them numerous times. I have not had any ill effects of ANY kind on wood, bone, or stag scales. This product is fully synthetic and will not turn acidic like mineral oil or non-synthetic oils. You will truly be impressed with this product. That I can promise you! I have wiped cosmoline off many stored surplus M-1 Garands in their original wooden crates, and can tell you this product provides superior protection over the cosmoline due to its ability to flow into areas that the cosmoline can't reach. It is not thin and watery, but has a similar viscosity to 30W motor oil. It's not too thin, and it's not too thick. It stays put; if you know what I mean.

F.Y.I.: The aerosol versions of BREAK-FREE products use CO2 for propellant; which is also harmless in itself as well.


I hope this helps!
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the fastest way for me is a muslin wheel on a grinder with white rouge, go easy and light or you will reshape the knife !!
 
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