Knife makers stamp inconsistancy

J

Jax knives

Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
59
I'm pretty new to knife making and have little experience. My first 6 knifes were professionally laser etched with my logo and looked amazimg. Unfortunately at $17 per knife I thought I needed to find a better priced option.

I bought a popular knife maker stamp (jax/knives is my logo) it is 5/16 x 5/16 and 9 letters total not a overly compcated logo. I assume and have no reason to think it ismt a good quality product.

However, I'm really displeased with the performance of the stamp after just a dozen test uses it seems to have faded and is more tenmpermental to position and very inconsistent. I've tried hand held with mall, I've tried arbor press with the additional hammer tap on arbor and have used a position jig with mall.

I'm not sure what I am missing or if this is the performance to be expected from a hand stamp.
 
What steel are you using? Do you have a large anvil? Do you have a 3 pound hammer? Do you really have 9 letters in a 5/16 x 5/16 square?

Hoss
 
You need an arbor press that has been recessed to hold the stamp solidly for best performance.
 
1080 & 1095 steel in annealed state. the logo is jax knives with jax on top and knives below the logo is less than 3/8 × 3\8 square. No anvil just 1" thick steel plate and 3-5 lb hammer. I purchased a harbor freight arbor press but haven't fanned a holder for it.
 
When I mark my knives, I strike the name stamp three or four times making sure it lines up every time. I find it helps when the blade sits flat on a heavy anvil. When I order my stamp, I make sure the shaft is heavier than normal, it helps with the transfer of energy. It can be nerve racking striking the name stamp as hard as you need to.

Hoss
 
I use a 6 ton hydraulic press from HF with a holder. Mine is a ever stamp holder, but you could make your own. Stamp is deep and consistent.
I think your stamp to too large to do by hand consistently.
 
where did you buy your knife stamp ? you say it seems like it has faded. i stamp the blades red hot right before hardening. i use a stamp from henry evers everstamp, and also their stamp holder on an anvil, or the concrete floor of the garage. the holder helped a lot in keeping the depth of the stamp even side to side. when hot stamping the stamp will last longer as well. one strike with a 2.5 lb hammer with just a moderate swing. stamping hot will also be deeper because the metal is softer.
 
john april said:
where did you buy your knife stamp ? you say it seems like it has faded. i stamp the blades red hot right before hardening. i use a stamp from henry evers everstamp, and also their stamp holder on an anvil, or the concrete floor of the garage. the holder helped a lot in keeping the depth of the stamp even side to side. when hot stamping the stamp will last longer as well. one strike with a 2.5 lb hammer with just a moderate swing. stamping hot will also be deeper because the metal is softer.
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I won't name the builder because I really have no reason to believe it's a quality issue. The gentlemen I bought it from was extremely professional and outstanding service. I really think is is more an operator inexperience issue . I thought I bought the stamp designed for cold stamping can I use it forgot stamping too?
 
Your Blade sides may not be parallel or possibly the surface you are using is not
Also check the steel plate Flip it over you may find that even a 1" plate will bend when pounded on
 
I stamp cold on an anvil with an 8lb hammer (sledge with cut down handle). I have tried a shop press with poor results (Harbor Freight. Shocking that it doesn't work well, right?). I have tried hand holding the stamp while striking with varied results. Usually too concerned with the digits to get a good strike. I used to make tape templates made out of maybe 6 layers of masking tape with a window cut out the size of the mark. This allowed me to plan where the stamp would line up on the blade and the thickness of the tape kept the stamp located until the strike. That works ok. These days I put the blade on the anvil and stand the stamp on the blade where I want the impression. I take a few practice swings to get the rhythm and aim then follow through with a firm strike. I let the stamp fall where it will. Works very well for me. Keep in mind that in the process of cleaning up the blade and hand sanding you will be removing a fair amount of material. Make sure you have a good strike so you don't end up sanding through your mark.
 
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