Last weekend, I got a chance to take a knifemaking class with ABS Mastersmith Michael Vagnino in his shop in Visalia, CA. As a bonus, fellow knifemaker Ray Laconico (Michael's friend and neighbor) was also there to help out, give some tips, and even learn some things from Michael.
I'm not an aspiring knifemaker. I've never done any sort of metalwork before this. I'm just a knife nut looking for some insight into the process of knifemaking, as a way to better appreciate knives in general. It was an experience of a lifetime. I got to design and make my own knife with their instruction, guidance and help. It really felt like that credit card commercial where the guy goes to guitar camp.
I want to share with some pictures. Unfortunately, I didn't get pictures of most of the grinding process, I was just too busy grinding.
First, draw the knife. I wanted an outdoor knife, something to carry during hikes with some heft. It will have a full tang and slab handles - basically the simplest knife one can make. I played around with different blade shapes and handles and this is the fifth and final version:
Next, cut out the drawing, trace it onto the steel and rough cut on a bandsaw. We used a thick stock of D2.
(The red color comes from Dykem Steel Red and aids in seeing the tracing line. The bandaid was from a knife accident early in the week.)
After rough-cutting on the bandsaw, we get right up to the tracing line with the grinder (sorry, I didn't get any pictures of me at the grinder). This is where the knife takes its shape. It's a slow process, only a bit of metal is removed at a time and because I timid on the bandsaw, there's more to grind away.
We then head over to Michael's Tree Mill to add a few holes for the handle pins and lanyard hole. (If only I had a Tree mill in my garage!)
From there, it's ready for heat treat - 1800 degrees for 20 minutes. This was the part of the day I enjoyed the most. There's really nothing to do while the steel is in the oven, so I get to sit in the shop and talk knives with Mike and Ray. Both are really friendly, down-to-earth guys (as well as patient and encouraging teachers). Like any knife nut, I was curious about what they carried. Their own custom? Someone else's custom? A Spyderco? Well, Ray carries his "mistakes" - a knife he made that he's not happy with, or a prototype that needs more tinkering. According to Ray, "Mike used to carry his mistakes, but he doesn't make mistakes anymore." (So Mike carries a small SAK, "with the little scissors.")
The steel is ready to come out of the oven for quenching. We're plate quenching the D2 with aluminum. The hot steel is cooled rapidly by being set between two aluminum bars, which draw the heat.
After quenching comes tempering, which an hour. While the steel is tempering we have time to work on the handle scales. I chose black linen micarta. Making scales involves essentially the same process used for the steel part of the knife - rough cut on the bandsaw, closer cut on the grinder, holes drilled on the mill.
Heat treating can warp the steel. We were lucky, my piece come out arrow straight. But, after tempering, Mike still takes the steel to the surface grinder to level out any unseen warping. Heat treating also superficially discolors the steel, and surface grinding doubles as the first level of sanding.
We're ready for blade grinding. I wanted a high flat grind, which is sketched onto the steel. The handle scales get attached for their own grind, so they'll be perfectly flush against the full tang. Mike does the grinding. This is the skill part of knifemaking, the part that takes years and years to learn. This is the step where steel becomes knife, where "fit and finish" happens - flush scales, even grind, sharp shoulders on the tang.
We add a choil on the Tree mill. (Again, I wish I had one of these in my garage, instead of just a Dremel.)
Now, we connect the scales. Usually, knifemakers use epoxy on the scales and pins. Mike's technique is to hand-cut countersinks into the scales, then peen the pins and lanyard tube in place without epoxy. A bit of silicone glue is used on the scales only to keep the moisture out to prevent rust.
The lanyard tube can't be peened with a hammer because the tube won't flare outward in a perfect circle. If you hammer the tube, the visible part will collapse inward on itself. Mike has his own technique to solve this, a technique which was new even to Ray. Unfortunately, I'm forbidden to disclose it. It's a secret. You'll have to ask Mike about it. I figure every Master Smith is privy to keep some techniques secret.
After pinning, the handle goes through a final grinding to add a swell to its face. Ray pitches in to round off the edges of the scales and polish them up. (I didn't get any pictures of him, he's shy.)
The final step is sharpening, which is done on the grinder and tested by shaving a small part Mike's arm.
Just to prove I was there, we pose for a picture (I'm on the left, holding the knife.)
Here's a close-up of the finished knife.
And here's a gratuitous glamour shot.
This was the coolest knife-related thing I ever did. If you're interested and are able to get to Visalia, I would definitely recommend hitting up Mike Vagnino about a taking a class. They also do hammer-in's and welcome anyone to join them.
Also, Ray and Mike have an exciting venture in the works. They just put up a sub-forum to sell mid-tech/semi-custom knives. I got to see some of the parts in the shop. So if you've ever wanted that Laconico or Vagnino knife (at a lower price), stay tuned here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/886-The-Laconico-amp-Vagnino-Show
They even plan on doing some collaborations as well :thumbup: - How cool is that?
I'm not an aspiring knifemaker. I've never done any sort of metalwork before this. I'm just a knife nut looking for some insight into the process of knifemaking, as a way to better appreciate knives in general. It was an experience of a lifetime. I got to design and make my own knife with their instruction, guidance and help. It really felt like that credit card commercial where the guy goes to guitar camp.
I want to share with some pictures. Unfortunately, I didn't get pictures of most of the grinding process, I was just too busy grinding.
First, draw the knife. I wanted an outdoor knife, something to carry during hikes with some heft. It will have a full tang and slab handles - basically the simplest knife one can make. I played around with different blade shapes and handles and this is the fifth and final version:
Next, cut out the drawing, trace it onto the steel and rough cut on a bandsaw. We used a thick stock of D2.
(The red color comes from Dykem Steel Red and aids in seeing the tracing line. The bandaid was from a knife accident early in the week.)
After rough-cutting on the bandsaw, we get right up to the tracing line with the grinder (sorry, I didn't get any pictures of me at the grinder). This is where the knife takes its shape. It's a slow process, only a bit of metal is removed at a time and because I timid on the bandsaw, there's more to grind away.
We then head over to Michael's Tree Mill to add a few holes for the handle pins and lanyard hole. (If only I had a Tree mill in my garage!)
From there, it's ready for heat treat - 1800 degrees for 20 minutes. This was the part of the day I enjoyed the most. There's really nothing to do while the steel is in the oven, so I get to sit in the shop and talk knives with Mike and Ray. Both are really friendly, down-to-earth guys (as well as patient and encouraging teachers). Like any knife nut, I was curious about what they carried. Their own custom? Someone else's custom? A Spyderco? Well, Ray carries his "mistakes" - a knife he made that he's not happy with, or a prototype that needs more tinkering. According to Ray, "Mike used to carry his mistakes, but he doesn't make mistakes anymore." (So Mike carries a small SAK, "with the little scissors.")
The steel is ready to come out of the oven for quenching. We're plate quenching the D2 with aluminum. The hot steel is cooled rapidly by being set between two aluminum bars, which draw the heat.
After quenching comes tempering, which an hour. While the steel is tempering we have time to work on the handle scales. I chose black linen micarta. Making scales involves essentially the same process used for the steel part of the knife - rough cut on the bandsaw, closer cut on the grinder, holes drilled on the mill.
Heat treating can warp the steel. We were lucky, my piece come out arrow straight. But, after tempering, Mike still takes the steel to the surface grinder to level out any unseen warping. Heat treating also superficially discolors the steel, and surface grinding doubles as the first level of sanding.
We're ready for blade grinding. I wanted a high flat grind, which is sketched onto the steel. The handle scales get attached for their own grind, so they'll be perfectly flush against the full tang. Mike does the grinding. This is the skill part of knifemaking, the part that takes years and years to learn. This is the step where steel becomes knife, where "fit and finish" happens - flush scales, even grind, sharp shoulders on the tang.
We add a choil on the Tree mill. (Again, I wish I had one of these in my garage, instead of just a Dremel.)
Now, we connect the scales. Usually, knifemakers use epoxy on the scales and pins. Mike's technique is to hand-cut countersinks into the scales, then peen the pins and lanyard tube in place without epoxy. A bit of silicone glue is used on the scales only to keep the moisture out to prevent rust.
The lanyard tube can't be peened with a hammer because the tube won't flare outward in a perfect circle. If you hammer the tube, the visible part will collapse inward on itself. Mike has his own technique to solve this, a technique which was new even to Ray. Unfortunately, I'm forbidden to disclose it. It's a secret. You'll have to ask Mike about it. I figure every Master Smith is privy to keep some techniques secret.
After pinning, the handle goes through a final grinding to add a swell to its face. Ray pitches in to round off the edges of the scales and polish them up. (I didn't get any pictures of him, he's shy.)
The final step is sharpening, which is done on the grinder and tested by shaving a small part Mike's arm.
Just to prove I was there, we pose for a picture (I'm on the left, holding the knife.)
Here's a close-up of the finished knife.
And here's a gratuitous glamour shot.
This was the coolest knife-related thing I ever did. If you're interested and are able to get to Visalia, I would definitely recommend hitting up Mike Vagnino about a taking a class. They also do hammer-in's and welcome anyone to join them.
Also, Ray and Mike have an exciting venture in the works. They just put up a sub-forum to sell mid-tech/semi-custom knives. I got to see some of the parts in the shop. So if you've ever wanted that Laconico or Vagnino knife (at a lower price), stay tuned here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/886-The-Laconico-amp-Vagnino-Show
They even plan on doing some collaborations as well :thumbup: - How cool is that?
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. Great looking knife buddy, let me know when you make some more, I'd definitely be interested.
