knife marks

S

skinner

Joined
Oct 10, 2000
Messages
9
Just wondering what your method of marking your blade is. I have been using a tang stamp for about twelve years. But I like the idea of marking the blade after it is more completed.(etch). What are the pros and cons of various methods? Thanks to all and a happy holidays.
 
I have been using a stamp for about 25 years. I have a Hermes engraving machine and also engrave my name. With Stellite and Talonite, you can't stamp.
About 80% of what I do is ceramic bead blasted and I just don't care for the looks of an etched name on it.
The last thing I do before heat treating is the name stamping.
 
Could you tell me where to get a personalized stamp and how much they cost.

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
I get mine from Henry Enders Mfg. Don't have the phone number handy but they advertise in Blade Magazine. They start at about $75 for a 3/32" letter size one. I have one I've used since 1990 and it still stamps as good as the day i got it.
 
I got my stamp recently from Henry A Evers Corp. $82 + S&H for a tang stamp with my last name. 800-553-8377 EVERSTAMP@aol.com
 
i use the electro-etch for my logo and any numbering, also you can get sheet stencil and make any pattern or siginator or intials. 90% of my blades are ats-34. i have read that using a stamp on stainless steel can lead to stress risers while being heat treated.

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
You know I always wondered that too. I mean we are carefull not to have any sharp corners on the ricasso or behind the guard as to not have a stress riser and here we are stamping steel before the heat treat. Now I am not saying it is bad I am just asking questions.

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
Around 1983,i sent a batch of blades to Paul Bos for heat treating,all stamped w/ my new H.A.Evers stamp.I soon received a call from Paul,who gently reminded me that we were in the 20th.,century not the 18th.,and i might wish to take advantage of that and get an etching,as all my blades had warped where they were struck.I got a marking methods unit & have used it since.I use the stamp for sheaths now.

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MJH
 
I've probably stamped 10,000 blades and never had one break at the stamp and never noticed any bending at the stamp area. Just gotta know how to do it, I guess
smile.gif

 
the reply was not a condemnation of stamps,just something that happened to me.It's possible i did not apply it correctly,maybe the stamp was too large,i just dont know.The mat'l.,was 440c,i was told later that on some S.S.s that it took a better impression if it was heated to 400deg.,first,but i have never tried this.Never the less i still find etching works best for me.

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MJH
 
I use a New Hermes panograph and a diamond graver to make my mark. I think its a personal preferance. There are a wide variety of makers stamping , engraving and electrochemical etching thier marks.

Arthur D. Washburn
ADW Custom Knives
 
As I went back and read my last post, I guess I did sound pretty sheety. Didn't mean it that way.

Gotta agree with Art. Find the way that works best for you and improve upon it.
 
Does anyone know around how much it would cost to get my name etched into a blade (7 letters altogether)? I'm going to attempt to make a balisong soon, and I want to make sure I get my name on it. Also, this is done before heat treating the blade, right?

[This message has been edited by KentDog (edited 12-24-2000).]
 
Let's say one has a spiffy new mark and plans to use the electrochemical etch method to apply it. How/where do you get the stencils made for your logo?

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Dave Larsen
--
Love is said to be blind, but I know lots of fellows who can see twice as much in their sweethearts as I can.
-Josh Billings
 
Was wondering about where to get a stencil too. I am kinda leaning towards the etch method. Thanks to all for responding.
 
The method of stamping will determine whether the blade will develope a slight warp. I stamp and always check the blade when through. I will sometimes stamp blade material on the other side of my logo stamp and when used in the same position, will restraighten the blade. I don't know for sure, but if the complete blade is secured down flat when stamped, there would be no warpage (I think). This happens on 1/8" and thinner blades. Haven't had a problem on the thicker ones.

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Ray Kirk
http://www.tah-usa.net/raker
 
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