Knife metal material

Joined
Jun 1, 2013
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Can you point me towards a comprehensive resource for the different metals used in blade construction?

If not, generally, what is good, what is OK and what is to be avoided?
 
That app is awesome! I love looking through it and comparing the different steels that I have
 
Steel is almost secondary to heat treat. Buying from a respected manufacturer will almost guarantee quality, independent of steel. Well, to some extent. Super steel is still super steel.:D But don't get too hung up on the stats.
 
I saw the ESEE Izula (I believe) use a 1095 that will rust according to the website. Why use something that will rust?

Because rust can be avoided by maintaining the blade OR coating it, which ESEE does a high-quality job of on most of their blades. There are a LOT of high performance (wear resistance, toughness) knife steels which are prone to corrosion.


Also 1095 is generally a lot cheaper than stainless steels - to acquire, heat-treat, and machine.
 
Because 1095 is so freakin awesome, that's why!:D Gets razor sharp easily and holds it well. Just wipe it down at the end of the day.

I saw the ESEE Izula (I believe) use a 1095 that will rust according to the website. Why use something that will rust?
 
Steel is almost secondary to heat treat. Buying from a respected manufacturer will almost guarantee quality, independent of steel. Well, to some extent. Super steel is still super steel.:D But don't get too hung up on the stats.

This reflects my philosophy well. People get hung up on the little numbers and letters designating an alloy. Cutting performance is the sum of the alloy, heat treat, sharpening method, and above all, edge geometry. Another rule of thumb, carbon steel is generally better for fixed blades, and stainless for folders.
 
I saw the ESEE Izula (I believe) use a 1095 that will rust according to the website. Why use something that will rust?

1095 makes for a great hard use knife, that can get very sharp and is easy to sharpen. A knife properly maintained wont rust to a degree where it matters for function.

Further more patina is only one step below bacon.
 
You basically have two types of steel. You have carbon steels(1095,3V,52100etc...) and stainless steels(440c,S30V,154CM)
In order to determine the steel that best suits your needs is to prioritize which elements of the steel are the the most important. It has been said that 1095 is more than adequate for the average user. I personally carry 154cm blade steel and it has held up very well in corrosion resistance, toughness and edge holding. There is give and take with blade steels just like anything else.
 
Cars rust too... Would you turn down a great truck because it could rust?

Paint scratches, steel stains and or rusts, some bolsters or fittings tarnish, screws come loose.

The only right answer for any tool is that it works for what you need it for. Same for hardware or power tools on to what color and material you want your overstuffed electronic laz-boy recliner.

If you have a jacked back, chances are your choice in recliners is going to be pickier than an 18 year olds.

Sooo many hobbies/interests/obsessions out there... So where to start with knives?
Pretty simple, I had cheapo pocket knives as a kid, they cut stuff and cleaned under my nails, perfect! Right?

Later I found Benchmade knives at a gun show, looked good, felt good, cut really well, I wasn't a sharpener then and I shudder now looking back at what I subjected my knives to.

Now, I like M4 steel, I like 400 and 600 grit edges. I like being able to make mirror edges and I really like sharpening friends knives.

Good steel comes from a good heat treat from 440c to whatever latest and greatest steel there is, blade geometry plays just as large a roll in performance as steel, not really for edge retention but for ease of use.

I think of bats, how nice would it be to have a bat so wide and perfectly balanced and weighted so that you could virtually never miss the ball? Same for knives, a blade so thin that you could slice anything with ease, that's the geometry, you don't want a thick knife, you want a thin knife, a knife that stays sharp and when it starts to dull still cuts well... Think of those serrated steak knives, years of cutting on plates and still cutting.

If someone made an Opinel in M4 steel, I would buy it, carry it every day and put the rest of my knives in a box, better yet an Opinel with g-10 handle and axis lock, my quest would be over until I found another better steel.
 
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