waynorth
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Nov 19, 2005
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We are setting up a simple reference for pocketknife handle patterns. It is a refinement of the Knife Terminology thread, and we are hoping it will be easier to access, sort of like a non-alphabetic dictionary. Some of the pictures will be repeats, and many will be new. Please read and enjoy it as it unfolds over the next couple of weeks, but don't post anything yet, so the references will all be at the start of the thread. Thanks for your cooperation. This is designed for the newer members joining here all the time, but hopefully can be enjoyed by all. I will start a thread for comments to run along with this one, and hopefully discussion, suggestions, and corrections can be talked about there. I am learning too, so always appreciate constructive criticism.
KNIFE PATTERNS
Simply put, a folding knife Pattern refers to the shape or outline of the handle or liner dies. From a simple Jack to a fancy Eureka Jack, with its convoluted shape, there are many patterns in this sense of the word.
From a manufacturer's point of view, the definition may be more complicated, the pattern changing with each detail, such as the handle material, or the blade(s). We will stick with the simpler definition for now, but take note of some of the other differences. We will start with, arguably, the plainest, and most common pattern, the Jack, and continue from there.
The Jack Knife
The Jack Knife is a simple stongly built knife, with a pivot at one end, and with one, two, or rarely, three blades. There are several variations; the Regular Jack; Swell End, Teardrop, Equal End, Swell Center, Curved, Swayback, and Gunstock Jacks, and others we will discover as we go along. There are also Double End Jacks, with a blade in each end.
The Regular Jack
We'll start with the Regular Jack. With one or two blades, pivoting at one end, and of a generally robust construction like all Jacks, it is one of the simplest folders to make. They were the most economical folder you could buy, and could provide years of service.
They are characterized by straight handle sides, which are easier to finish, a slight widening, or taper for a better grip, and a somewhat squared off bolstered or bolsterless, pivot end. Here are some Regular Jacks
They could be made with a minimal number of parts. Starting at the left, notice one blade, and no bolsters. A reinforced rivet at the blade pivot helped to maintain tightness. A knife with no bolsters was also called a "shadow" pattern.
The second knife is probably the most common configuration of Regular Jack.
Wood handles, a strengthening bolster, and a lone spear blade. Apparently, in the trade around 100 years ago this simple knife was referred to, by some, as a "stabber jack"; some indication of one of the many uses of a pocket knife, this term has also been applied to Swell Center Jacks with a very heavy Saber-ground blade!
Pay a few cents more, and you moved upscale with nice jigged bone (often called bone stag) on the handles like the next knife. Options abounded, as you could get a two blade knife, celluloid handles, cap bolsters to protect your fancy handles from chipping. Fancy bolsters gave you bragging rights, like the "rat-tail" bolsters on the second last knife, named after the round rat-tail file used to make them. And finally genuine stag, carefully selected, would make a knife that only got better with age, as the beautiful material has a tendency to mellow nicely with handling.
As you can see, a Regular Jack can accommodate a variety of blades, the most common being a spear shape, followed by a clip, and a sheepfoot. The secondary blades were almost always pen blades, to keep your quill pen sharp, but the celluloid knife here has a punch as a secondary, more rarely seen than a pen.
We are setting up a simple reference for pocketknife handle patterns. It is a refinement of the Knife Terminology thread, and we are hoping it will be easier to access, sort of like a non-alphabetic dictionary. Some of the pictures will be repeats, and many will be new. Please read and enjoy it as it unfolds over the next couple of weeks, but don't post anything yet, so the references will all be at the start of the thread. Thanks for your cooperation. This is designed for the newer members joining here all the time, but hopefully can be enjoyed by all. I will start a thread for comments to run along with this one, and hopefully discussion, suggestions, and corrections can be talked about there. I am learning too, so always appreciate constructive criticism.
KNIFE PATTERNS
Simply put, a folding knife Pattern refers to the shape or outline of the handle or liner dies. From a simple Jack to a fancy Eureka Jack, with its convoluted shape, there are many patterns in this sense of the word.
From a manufacturer's point of view, the definition may be more complicated, the pattern changing with each detail, such as the handle material, or the blade(s). We will stick with the simpler definition for now, but take note of some of the other differences. We will start with, arguably, the plainest, and most common pattern, the Jack, and continue from there.
The Jack Knife
The Jack Knife is a simple stongly built knife, with a pivot at one end, and with one, two, or rarely, three blades. There are several variations; the Regular Jack; Swell End, Teardrop, Equal End, Swell Center, Curved, Swayback, and Gunstock Jacks, and others we will discover as we go along. There are also Double End Jacks, with a blade in each end.
The Regular Jack
We'll start with the Regular Jack. With one or two blades, pivoting at one end, and of a generally robust construction like all Jacks, it is one of the simplest folders to make. They were the most economical folder you could buy, and could provide years of service.
They are characterized by straight handle sides, which are easier to finish, a slight widening, or taper for a better grip, and a somewhat squared off bolstered or bolsterless, pivot end. Here are some Regular Jacks

They could be made with a minimal number of parts. Starting at the left, notice one blade, and no bolsters. A reinforced rivet at the blade pivot helped to maintain tightness. A knife with no bolsters was also called a "shadow" pattern.
The second knife is probably the most common configuration of Regular Jack.
Wood handles, a strengthening bolster, and a lone spear blade. Apparently, in the trade around 100 years ago this simple knife was referred to, by some, as a "stabber jack"; some indication of one of the many uses of a pocket knife, this term has also been applied to Swell Center Jacks with a very heavy Saber-ground blade!
Pay a few cents more, and you moved upscale with nice jigged bone (often called bone stag) on the handles like the next knife. Options abounded, as you could get a two blade knife, celluloid handles, cap bolsters to protect your fancy handles from chipping. Fancy bolsters gave you bragging rights, like the "rat-tail" bolsters on the second last knife, named after the round rat-tail file used to make them. And finally genuine stag, carefully selected, would make a knife that only got better with age, as the beautiful material has a tendency to mellow nicely with handling.
As you can see, a Regular Jack can accommodate a variety of blades, the most common being a spear shape, followed by a clip, and a sheepfoot. The secondary blades were almost always pen blades, to keep your quill pen sharp, but the celluloid knife here has a punch as a secondary, more rarely seen than a pen.
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