Knife Recommendation - RAT? BM? SOG? what

JCK

Joined
Nov 7, 2009
Messages
645
Ok so I've tried looking, maybe not hard enough, and as I am a new member, and not a paying one, I do not have access to the search function so if this has been done then sorry, I should look harder next time.

So here is my situation. I'm 18 y.o. in 3 months, so I am legally allowed to buy knives soon, and even then I could get my dad to buy it before then. Anyway I like hiking and bush/survival camping/hiking. All that kinda stuff - love it!

Anyway, I am just beginning to get serious as in buying my own gear and looking at the different gear I will need, backpack etc..

So as you can probably guess I am looking for a decent fixed blade knife. I don't want a folder, as I plan on getting one later, and don't see the need for one in relation to my situation, especially since I can't really carry it with me (Aus knife laws are tough), however correct me otherwise if you think other wise about the folder.

So I live in Australia and this I think changes my options somewhat. Now I plan on going hiking in both Australia and New Zealand, probably New Zealand first. So the weather I can expect would be both hot and cold, maybe snow, but mainly rain and heat.

Secondly, I am willing to spend maybe max $150 - maybe more ($200?) if you can persuade me. I'm a student so funds are kinda limited, and I don't have a job... yet

Thirdly, as I live in Australia, I am not sure that I would be doing much bushcraft as such. (ironic aint it) I can't remember what the fire restrictions are that we have, like out bush - are you allowed to have one? I would use a hootchie for shelter so wouldn't need to make a basic shelter - but I would like a knife capable of doing this.

Anyway, what I am trying to say after my massive rant is can you suggest to me a knife that would suit my situation.

My POU incase I mised it would mainly be for fire building, maybe some other bushcraft stuff, but mainly just batoning, fuzzsticks etc. UNless anyone out there is an aussie hiker/camper then what do you use your knife for?

Now I've been looking at various models, and the first one I saw was a SOG Seal Pup Elite, which I liked the blade shape, kinda tacticool, but it was a bit overpriced for what its made from, and its kinda thin.

I also looked at Rat Cutlery RC 5 SERE knive i think its called and the BM Nim Cub 2.
But the RAT RC5 looks like a truely awesome knife, excellent warranty, materials, good blade shape etc. EDIT: (not sure if I can get one in/to Australia though :()

however when it comes to knifes I don't know too much, as in what balde shape is better all that.

But if you can suggest me a knife that would suit my criteria than I would be most pleased
1) Available in Australia (or able to be posted and past customs)
2) Budget - $150 max maybe $200 (persuade me :))
3) decent thickness w/full tang (better strength I've heard)
4) POU - fire building, able to take a beating

Finally how long do you think your suggested knife will last me - I'm not a collector, so I will be using it
Thanks again for reading this probably ridiculously long post with heaps of questions in it and for taking to time to reply

cheers all JCK
 
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Before reading even halfway through your post I was thinking in my head about suggesting the RC-5 but apparently your already onto that one. Its a great sturdy knife. Of course like you said your going to want a full tang as something without wont be able to hold up to the batoning you mentioned. I think most people would agree that a full convex grind is the best combination of strength and sharpenability. However I do appreciate the full flat grind on the Rats also. Oh and if you take care of your knife it really should last you your entire life. But if your like most of us you'll get many many more throughout.
 
Brkt bravo 1 or a RC-4, beyond that a small mora would probably be a nice back-up. Stright out of the box performance would probably go to the bravo 1, its a great design for bushcraft. The RC knives are very nice but the RC-5 is a bit overkill for your needs, 1/4in thick saber ground slabs of steel usually don't cut that well. The RC-4 would be the better choice.
 
RAT RC-4 would be my choice, the RC-5 is more of a "chop an airplane in half" type of knife IMO kind of overkill for what you listed
 
I think most people would agree that a full convex grind is the best combination of strength and sharpenability. However I do appreciate the full flat grind on the Rats also.

Just wondering, partly due to my ignorance, whats the difference in performance between full flat and convex. I know what they look like, but not much about them i.e. performance, cutting, strength, does it really matter

The RC knives are very nice but the RC-5 is a bit overkill for your needs, 1/4in thick saber ground slabs of steel usually don't cut that well. The RC-4 would be the better choice.

do you mean this in relation to bushcraft or my POU?

I figure if i get an RC5 - which is very attractive to me atm then maybe I sould get a seal pup elite or other finer/smaller blade for more precise cutting and such.
Maybe i just like the look of the larger blade and maybe kidding myself into how useful it will be. But it does look pretty badass I think.

Brkt bravo 1 or a RC-4, beyond that a small mora would probably be a nice back-up.

Do you know if these are available in Australia, otherwise would I be able to ship them in
but thanks for the suggestion I'll look into those two.

Cheers for you replies
JCK
 
maybe I'm just having a brain fart but what is POU?
 
lol sorry if no one knows
stands for philosophy of use
basically what you or I intend to use that knife for

just wondering about the handle thickness - what are your opinions on it -too thick - too thin
this is because I probably won't be able to hold the knife before i buy it :(

and one more question - are there many, if any australians on this forum, just wondering
 
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Thanks, don't think I've heard of that one but I like it. Their are a few members from your neck of the woods that frequent here.

Convex in a nut shell is; less points of contact meaning less friction between blade and object being cut. Effects are most noticed when cutting meat, wood, your finger :) and when batoning.

Welcome to BF, your off to a good start with you choices but take a look at our WS&S section under "tactics & training" its right up your ally.
 
Thanks for that knifenut1013, great advice

I just heard the term POU somewhere and just thought it was a good way to describe what i intended using the knife for.

And I'll be sure to check out the WS&S Section it seems great for me

thanks to all who replied.
however one sidenote, I probably won't be getting this knife until early next year, maybe christmas, but more liekyl early next year
so LONG wait for me

and the Bark river bravo is kinda growing on me, alhtough a little bit expensive, maybe when i get more hiking and backpacking experience I'll be able to get it and be able to appreciate it more, not that I wouldn't appreciate it or the RAT RC 5 or 4 right now.

but yeah thanks again
if you have any more suggestions please post

cheers
JCK
 
I am from Melbourne and I can answer some of your questions on importing.

Most fixed blades can be imported with absolutely no problems. The only ones that are banned are double edged knives (daggers) as these are obviously weapons and not tools.

'Trench Knives' Knives with a handle that fits over the
knuckles to protect them or increase the effect of a punch or blow.

With folders you can't import auto's or butterfly knives. Assisted openers are technically legal but as always it is down to who opens your package and if they want they can confiscate it. This can usually be avoided by tightening down the pivot.

So far every single folder i have imported into Australia has been opened by customs but nothing has been taken.
Fixed bladed will usually not be opened.
 
Also take a look at our makers section, lots of talent at a good price.

first to mind is JK knives, real user blades.
 
ok thanks for that
I knew the laws regarding folders and balisongs and such
but wasn't sure on the fixed so thanks for that

so I could if I wanted to ship one from USA i.e. a RAT or something

and in regards to custom maybe a bit later
but as soon as I know waht I wanted form a blade, i think that a custom knife would be the best as it is suited your needs exactly

cheers folks
JCK
 
Yep, I just recently imported an Izula and an RC-3. Both awesome knives.
But for your required use I would definitely recommend the RC-4. Great quality and an unbeatable warranty.
 
Also take a look at our makers section, lots of talent at a good price.

first to mind is JK knives, real user blades.

I agree as well. Lots of great makers here who make tough as nails knives within your budget.

2) Budget - $150 max maybe $200 (persuade me )
3) decent thickness w/full tang (better strength I've heard)

I can only speak for John's (JK Handmade Knives) work. As that is what I use and carry. This is his Hiker model.This one is under your price limit. And is full tang , 1/8" thick O1. Convex edge.

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4) POU - fire building, able to take a beating

This tough enough?

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If your only going to have one knife (for now) ,might as well be one that was made for you.The way you want it.

With a budget of $200 you don't need to settle for what a factory offers. A custom is something to seriously consider.:thumbup:
 
oooh now you really got me thinking
that is a good point - that custom from JK Handmade Knives looks pretty nice and just out of interest how thick is that thing the knife is through (mental blank can't think of whats its called)

and could I modify this knife in anyway?
and you recommend a convex edge is this because this is better suited to bush work?

now this seems like a very good option, one whcih I will consider
but if I wanted to spend only 150 on a knife, which factory would you recommend, a RAT knife? or the fallkniven I've seen so many poeple swear by

but thanks for putting the idea in my head, I think that would make a nice birthday gift for myself
 
oooh now you really got me thinking
that is a good point - that custom from JK Handmade Knives looks pretty nice and just out of interest how thick is that thing the knife is through (mental blank can't think of whats its called)

and could I modify this knife in anyway?
and you recommend a convex edge is this because this is better suited to bush work?

now this seems like a very good option, one whcih I will consider
but if I wanted to spend only 150 on a knife, which factory would you recommend, a RAT knife? or the fallkniven I've seen so many poeple swear by

but thanks for putting the idea in my head, I think that would make a nice birthday gift for myself
No need to mod any of these knives, however i would maintain a convexed edge field use.
 
I just heard the term POU somewhere and just thought it was a good way to describe what i intended using the knife for.

1 Welcome to BF
2 You should avoid using TLA's like POU that are not specific to the interest group you are addressing - confuses and alienates people. Also, a TLA can have several meanings, which makes them even more confusing
3 RAT 4 or BRKT Bravo 1 or Gunny. My personal choice is actually Falkniven F1
4 Seal Pup Elite for fine cutting? Not sure exactly what you mean by this but a SOG would not be my first choice. IMO - any of knives listed in 3 would obviate a SOG SPE
5 Check out the W&S sub-forum - folding saw not a bad idea. I also like carrying a multi-tool - find them way more useful than a knife.
6 Lighting fires other than in designated places in Oz - especially National Parks - not generally permitted. Using wood other than that supplied by Park Rangers can also be illegal in some areas. Don't know about NZ.
7 I've hiked in all conditions and cannot emphasise enough the advantages of an all-weather cooking system like a Trangia - something you will really appreciate when the weather turns foul, and you can make a hot cuppa in less time than it takes to gather the wood and light a fire.
 
oooh now you really got me thinking
that is a good point - that custom from JK Handmade Knives looks pretty nice and just out of interest how thick is that thing the knife is through (mental blank can't think of whats its called)


Roughly a tad over 1/16" aluminum canteen cup.

and could I modify this knife in anyway?

Yes. you pick the handle material. I had the thumb serrations added. And I had John make the blade 3 7/8" , the "standard" length is 4". John makes these by hand so changes are OK.

and you recommend a convex edge is this because this is better suited to bush work?

Convex suits me better. A full flat is OK as well. But IMHO a convex is better for edge retention after hard use.

but if I wanted to spend only 150 on a knife,

I'd buy the Hiker. John's base model is around $130 ,I believe. It goes up from there based on options you want.
(I ordered mine when he ran a discounted monthly special on it)
 
which factory would you recommend, a RAT knife? or the fallkniven I've seen so many poeple swear by

I can't recommend either of them as I don't own or use them. I won't reccomend something based on other's opinions or knife testing.
 
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