Knife recommendation?

A

Andy137

Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Messages
15
I need some advice on which knife fits my needs. After doing a lot of research I still haven't found one knife that stands out. Right now I'm using a Mora Companion (carbon) which I'm extremely happy with but I feel like I need something a little more robust, something I can baton (light batoning, I'm not looking to chop down any trees with it) without fear of it breaking. I use my knife to fish, make feather sticks, light batoning.. Just a decent bushcraft knife. (And I'm quite a fan of Scandinavian knives)
Is a full tang really necessary for my needs? (The Mora Bushcraft Black seems like a great option but not a full tang) I've looked at Helle but I've seen quite a few people complain about some quality issues..

Any recommendations will be more than welcome!
 
Your question is waaaaaay too broad to be able to provide a decent answer. Do you have any ideas about:
- Blade length / overall length
- Blade thickness
- Blade steel type carbon / stainless
- Handle material
- Seath material

Or maybe if you have no idea about that, try to be more specific about what tasks and in which environment do you plan on using this new knife.

Mikel
 
Thanks for your response my friend! It should be a good all-round bushcraft knife used for fishing, making feather sticks, light batoning etc.. I use my knife constantly for various things as I live on the Siberian countryside. So a blade length around 4 inches (no survival type knives), blade thickness around 3mm, preferably scandinavian grind, no real preference about carbon or stainless although I like carbon and preferably a wooden handle..
I didn't provide most of these things in my original post because they are not really a deal breaker for me. (For example, even though I like carbon, stainless wouldn't be a deal breaker)
 
abbazaba said:
Check out the Fallkniven F1 reviews.
Click to expand...

F1 is a great knife. I own one and it suits me well. However it is not scandi and does not have a wooden handle. However, if the OP can live with it, it is a great knife. You could splurge and get the F1 Pro, with a metal guard and better steel. Or the S1, which is just a tad bigger.

Deadboxhero made an extensive and intensive review on the A1 Pro you may want to have a look at.

Mikel
 
Mikel_24 said:
F1 is a great knife. I own one and it suits me well. However it is not scandi and does not have a wooden handle. However, if the OP can live with it, it is a great knife. You could splurge and get the F1 Pro, with a metal guard and better steel. Or the S1, which is just a tad bigger.

Deadboxhero made an extensive and intensive review on the A1 Pro you may want to have a look at.

Mikel
Click to expand...

Thanks for the responses! The A1 is definitely not for me and F1 Pro doesn't fit my budget.. The F1 looks good although I'm pretty set on a scandi.
Any thoughts on the Mora Garberg?
 
There are so many fantastic knives to be had, every style and for every pocket.
There are the folders, the multitools, the fixed utility, and the big choppers. Loads of manufacturers want your custom. Amongst it all the classics still do it.

Go with what you fancy after trolling through, and reading up as much as you can.

My recommendation this week are highly practical tools and I think the bargain of the year, which is why I'm pushing them though have nothing to do with the company. Often out of stock but they will be back soon, and the postage is low especially considering where they come from. They are a fantastic starting point and even if later you gain the confidence to buy higher ticket priced items, sexier knives, these will keep going if only as spares. Just a good place to start, and can compete with knives costing far far more; in truth hard to beat.

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/prod...soref=woodsknife-traditional-puukko-105-light
https://www.varusteleka.com/en/prod...alsoref=terava-skrama-bush-knife-carbon-steel
https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/terava-skrama-bush-knife-carbon-steel/28025

I have a good few knives, but a huge fan of things like Victorinox, Opinel, and Leatherman multitools. No need to break the bank, unless you really want to.
 
Look at the Kabar Becker line and swap out the grivory scales for walnut ones
 
My friend just bought a Tops BOB. I thought it was really nice but it may be larger than you want
 
Ka-Bar BK-16, or if scandi is a must, a +1 on the Tops Bob.
 
Are you opposed to the idea of a fun project ? If not you could always get an Ontario old hickory butcher knife and modify it, the 1095 Steel they use is great, they're full tang, and dirt cheap.

For the 7" butcher knife ( model 7025 ) you could go basic and just epoxy on and reprofile the scales, then sharpen it and make a simple sheath.
Or you could take a cut off disk in a dremel and reshape / shorten the blade. Minus waiting for the epoxy you could finish the knife itself in under an hour , and a simple fold over sheath can be made in about an hour as well.
 
Andy137 said:
I need some advice on which knife fits my needs. After doing a lot of research I still haven't found one knife that stands out. Right now I'm using a Mora Companion (carbon) which I'm extremely happy with but I feel like I need something a little more robust, something I can baton (light batoning, I'm not looking to chop down any trees with it) without fear of it breaking. I use my knife to fish, make feather sticks, light batoning.. Just a decent bushcraft knife. (And I'm quite a fan of Scandinavian knives)
Is a full tang really necessary for my needs? (The Mora Bushcraft Black seems like a great option but not a full tang) I've looked at Helle but I've seen quite a few people complain about some quality issues..

Any recommendations will be more than welcome!
Click to expand...

Former bicycle mechanic here. When I used to fix bikes, we would see some customers who broke bikes regularly while others didn't. We would say the first "Rode heavy in the saddle" while the other "Rode light in the saddle". I saw the same thing when I was a ski instructor. Some folks regularly broke skis while others didn't.

In my opinion, knife durability has a lot to do with the user and very little to do with the design. Nearly all so-called full-tang knives use skeletonized handles to achieve a reasonable balance in the hand. Really, for light to moderate batoning, both stick tang and full tang knives will hold up if you use your brain and don't try to smash your way through knots and both styles can be broken if you're just committed to breaking your knife.

There is a down-side to exposed full tang knives in the cold.... they're colder in the hand.

If you like the Companion but want just a bit more, you might look at the Companion Heavy-Duty which is a bit thicker.

Or you can look at the Mora Garberg if you want a full tang knife.
 
I have been I nterested in some of the Enzo trappers, or Helle, scandi grinds and and wood handles too. They are just plain pretty.
 
pinnah said:
Former bicycle mechanic here. When I used to fix bikes, we would see some customers who broke bikes regularly while others didn't. We would say the first "Rode heavy in the saddle" while the other "Rode light in the saddle". I saw the same thing when I was a ski instructor. Some folks regularly broke skis while others didn't.

In my opinion, knife durability has a lot to do with the user and very little to do with the design. Nearly all so-called full-tang knives use skeletonized handles to achieve a reasonable balance in the hand. Really, for light to moderate batoning, both stick tang and full tang knives will hold up if you use your brain and don't try to smash your way through knots and both styles can be broken if you're just committed to breaking your knife.

There is a down-side to exposed full tang knives in the cold.... they're colder in the hand.

If you like the Companion but want just a bit more, you might look at the Companion Heavy-Duty which is a bit thicker.

Or you can look at the Mora Garberg if you want a full tang knife.
Click to expand...

Very good point, I definitely agree, it does have a lot to do with the user! That's why I feel a 3/4 tang would probably do the job, but that full tang will give my that peace of mind.. As I live in Siberia an exposed full tang knife is definite a no-go ;)
That Mora Garberg is starting to look better and better!
 
cbach8tw said:
I have been I nterested in some of the Enzo trappers, or Helle, scandi grinds and and wood handles too. They are just plain pretty.
Click to expand...

I agree, I especially like some of the Helle knives.. Great quality steel and absolutely beautiful! I'm just a little concerned after having read a few bad reviews about some (minor) quality issues.
 
+1 for the bushlore. I've had one for a little over a year and love it.

Condor also just came out with the Swamp Romper as well. Caught my eye but yet to grab one.

People compare it to the tops bob knife from what I've seen.

The plus on condor is the ability to buy a blank for under 20$ and customize it yourself.

Here is my bushlore with custom marble wood handles and a hybrid sheath i did
1c53ffe406edba215501cf87fdbded00.jpg
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Since you already like Mora Knives. I say Bushcraft Black or Garberg.

Might also have a look at the new Mora Kansbol. Should be available shortly. Sort of a rehandled Mora 2000.


Or go completely off the charts, and out side the box, and grab yourself a Fallkniven NL-5 Idun. Or maybe the New F-1 Pro.
 
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The biggest question is budget. Next is your definition of light batoning.
A mora is tougher than most give it credit for and will never break under the intended use (cutting stuff). I've seen moras handle some ridiculously heavy batoning.
That being said, I consider light batoning being anything I can wedge using palm strikes. Anything more than that, I would rather use a full-tang knife.
 
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