To save your time, I will try to avoid repeating the information that is publicly available (measurements etc.). Please note that my discussion below is about both models since they are similar in many respects. But there is a small portion in which I discuss them as distinctly separate models.
(1) Purchasing decision:
I have been wanting to buy a "good" sized folder since last camping trip during which, at one time, I was holding a feeble blade (part of a multiple tool) while listening some disturbances outside the tent in pitch-black darkness. I wowed to myself to get a decent folder afterwards. The reason I started out with CRKT's M21-04 (and M16-14M few weeks after) is that I wanted a thicker blade for its strength. Despite the importance of blade steel, I still believe that mass does count and may count more than the steel type. I compared several potential candidates in the similar price-range. M21-04/M16-14M has the thickest blade. By the way, the thickness of the blade is not always available from the knife sites. Only a few offer this info. The price factor also played role in my purchasing decision. Most importantly, most the reviews I read are positive about them.
(2) Lock:
I appreciated the secondary lock (LAWKS) which is easy to engage and makes the main lock very secure once it is engaged. Some might argue that it is added because the main lock was somewhat "unsafe" or "flawed" to begin with. I would like to point out that no lock (be it a liner or other type) is 100% secure by itself. But LAWKS does give you the sense of being close to using a fixed blade once it is engaged.
(3) Action:
I heard many comments on the practicality and fun factor of the "Carson Flipper" feature. I like it mainly because it is an effective guard for the hand by preventing it from slipping into sharp blade.
But I do not use it as a main or only device to open the blade. I preferred to open the blade by placing my index finger on the flipper and thumb on the stub, then making turning motion clock-wise with both figures like one would close a bottle cap (or rotate a hex nut). Once the initial turn is made, the thumb will take over to finish off the rest of the journey until the blade is locked in place. The main reasons I prefer this way are: (a) I can then set the pivot tension tighter without worrying the added difficulty when opening. Essentially the "torque" force of this method overcomes the tighter tension. A tighter tension will make the knife safer when it is stored or carried. (b) I can open the blade in a more deliberate and silent manner. I am not fond of making quick motion while generating a clicking sound when blade is locked in place. Nevertheless, this method can still achieve a fast deployment when the speed is needed. After some practice, I can now open and close the blade smoothly with my both hands.
(4) Blade:
Without any specification on hand, I thought the blade grind for M16-14M is straight or flat type. I got this impression from the pictures on various sites. It turned out to be hollow grind. A tiny bit disappointment there. But the tanto format already gives the blade plenty strength so I am not unhappy at all. I also found that M21-04 has larger overall unground (the thickest) area on the blade than M16-14M does. This potentially makes M21-04's blade strong (if not stronger than M16-14M). But the blade coating (TiNi) and other niceties justified the extra money for M16-14M.
(5) Other areas:
M21-04 has 4-way positioning for the pocket clip. M16-14M has only 2 positions. This information is not listed anywhere until you receive the product. I am right-handed so this does not affect me. But I suppose it affects some people. So I hope my information can be of some help.
I also found that there is an extra insert at the butt area of M16-14M. While M21-04 has metal ring like studs in the same area. I am wondering whether the plastic insert on M16-14M is weaker or stronger than the support on M21-04. Appreciated if someone can provide the information.
The handle is basically built with layers of plates/liners bound/fastened togather in 3 places: blade pivot in the front and 2 fasteners at the rear end of the handle. I wish CRKT could add one or more such fasteners so as to make the handle stronger. It seems that there are more rooms along the spine of the handle. This may be the industry standard and well-tested design so my concern may be out of place here.
Thanks for reading thru this long-winded review
(1) Purchasing decision:
I have been wanting to buy a "good" sized folder since last camping trip during which, at one time, I was holding a feeble blade (part of a multiple tool) while listening some disturbances outside the tent in pitch-black darkness. I wowed to myself to get a decent folder afterwards. The reason I started out with CRKT's M21-04 (and M16-14M few weeks after) is that I wanted a thicker blade for its strength. Despite the importance of blade steel, I still believe that mass does count and may count more than the steel type. I compared several potential candidates in the similar price-range. M21-04/M16-14M has the thickest blade. By the way, the thickness of the blade is not always available from the knife sites. Only a few offer this info. The price factor also played role in my purchasing decision. Most importantly, most the reviews I read are positive about them.
(2) Lock:
I appreciated the secondary lock (LAWKS) which is easy to engage and makes the main lock very secure once it is engaged. Some might argue that it is added because the main lock was somewhat "unsafe" or "flawed" to begin with. I would like to point out that no lock (be it a liner or other type) is 100% secure by itself. But LAWKS does give you the sense of being close to using a fixed blade once it is engaged.
(3) Action:
I heard many comments on the practicality and fun factor of the "Carson Flipper" feature. I like it mainly because it is an effective guard for the hand by preventing it from slipping into sharp blade.
But I do not use it as a main or only device to open the blade. I preferred to open the blade by placing my index finger on the flipper and thumb on the stub, then making turning motion clock-wise with both figures like one would close a bottle cap (or rotate a hex nut). Once the initial turn is made, the thumb will take over to finish off the rest of the journey until the blade is locked in place. The main reasons I prefer this way are: (a) I can then set the pivot tension tighter without worrying the added difficulty when opening. Essentially the "torque" force of this method overcomes the tighter tension. A tighter tension will make the knife safer when it is stored or carried. (b) I can open the blade in a more deliberate and silent manner. I am not fond of making quick motion while generating a clicking sound when blade is locked in place. Nevertheless, this method can still achieve a fast deployment when the speed is needed. After some practice, I can now open and close the blade smoothly with my both hands.
(4) Blade:
Without any specification on hand, I thought the blade grind for M16-14M is straight or flat type. I got this impression from the pictures on various sites. It turned out to be hollow grind. A tiny bit disappointment there. But the tanto format already gives the blade plenty strength so I am not unhappy at all. I also found that M21-04 has larger overall unground (the thickest) area on the blade than M16-14M does. This potentially makes M21-04's blade strong (if not stronger than M16-14M). But the blade coating (TiNi) and other niceties justified the extra money for M16-14M.
(5) Other areas:
M21-04 has 4-way positioning for the pocket clip. M16-14M has only 2 positions. This information is not listed anywhere until you receive the product. I am right-handed so this does not affect me. But I suppose it affects some people. So I hope my information can be of some help.
I also found that there is an extra insert at the butt area of M16-14M. While M21-04 has metal ring like studs in the same area. I am wondering whether the plastic insert on M16-14M is weaker or stronger than the support on M21-04. Appreciated if someone can provide the information.
The handle is basically built with layers of plates/liners bound/fastened togather in 3 places: blade pivot in the front and 2 fasteners at the rear end of the handle. I wish CRKT could add one or more such fasteners so as to make the handle stronger. It seems that there are more rooms along the spine of the handle. This may be the industry standard and well-tested design so my concern may be out of place here.
Thanks for reading thru this long-winded review
