Knife rusting under handle?

B

bigpapacolt

Joined
Sep 5, 2013
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Hey guys, I've been reading this forum for a while (and learned a LOT) but have finally decided to make it official and register/post. I have a question for all you knife-makers out there. I've made a knife out of 01 steel and just finished the rough outline of the handle made of Olive wood. I had both scales loosely pinned to the knife overnight and was going to start sanding/contouring the handle this morning but when I pulled the scales apart the knife had started to rust where the wood was touching the metal. I know Olive wood is naturally oily and that 01 steel will rust if not properly taken care of but is there anything I can do so that I can continue to use this handle and keep the metal underneath it from rusting away? After I get the handle sanded and finished I plan on using a waterproof epoxy and peen two brass pins as well. Will the waterproof epoxy act as a barrier between the oily wood and metal? What do you all think I should do? Thanks for all your help!
 
Rust is iron oxide. If the steel cannot come into contact with oxygen — such as if it is covered in epoxy — it cannot rust. Oil from the wood will not make steel rust (although it could possibly make it form a patina).

- Chris
 
As Hesparus stated, I epoxy almost all of my scales on (unless I want to leave them removable for some reason), and the purpose of this is not so much to bond them to the knife, but to moisture proof the tang as much as possible. In my opinion, epoxy should never be relied upon to keep scales attached to a tang. I typically use corbies as a means of mechanical fastening, and if I must use pins, I peen them.
 
Thanks! That makes perfect sense. Just like a fire, rust needs oxygen. I'm going to epoxy the scales on as soon as I finish researching which epoxy to use. Then it'll be epoxied and peened....and rust free! Thanks guys!
 
I usually get the 5 or 10 minute stuff from Loc-Tite myself. Cheap, widely available, and effective.

If you want the best, I've heard great things about Acraglas or West System Epoxy, but it's a bit more pricy.
 
The 10 minute epozy is pretty fast.

Try to find a longer pot time, it's also more durable.


West Systems G Flex is nice to work with.


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1098118-New-to-knife-making?p=12526274#post12526274


Glue – Epoxy
Use a new package of slow setting 30 min to 1 hour, high strength epoxy to attach blades to handles and seal out moisture.
Slow epoxy is stronger and gives you time to work with it.
Surface Prep is vital, drill tang holes/ grind a hollow, roughen the surfaces with abrasive or blasting is best.
Ensure the surface is clean and no oil including fingerprints.
Use Acetone & Alcohol, or Blasting.
Don't' over clamp to avoid a “glue starved joint” when all the adhesive is squeezed out.
Use:
Brownell's Acraglas
West Systems G Flex
JB Weld
 
Thanks for all the help!! I just happened to find some Devcon 2-ton epoxy in the garage this afternoon. What do you all think about the Devcon? I think I purchased it a couple of months ago...maybe? The epoxy itself is still very clear. Is it worth the gamble? If not, I'll probably order some Acraglas. Seems everyone has positive things to say about it.
 
If it is slow set it wil probably work OK. If you live in an area with Marine supply stores you can probably pick up the West Systems G-flex locally.(Hint. Hint. Fill out your profile) I got mine at the local West Marine for a competitive price and I didn't have to wait for shipping. Good luck with your build and post up some pictures when you are done.

Jeff
 
You're right. Just found some at my local West Marine. Looks like I'll be headed that way this afternoon!
 
Does anyone besides me use Ospho or a similar metal prep on carbon steel prior to gluing?
So far results are very good.
 
I bought the big bottle of Acraglas from Brownells 2 years ago and still have about a third left. Haven't had no problems and it slow enough to give you plenty of time. Starting out, you're going to need it because you'll make mistakes and need some extra time.
 
Does Acraglas dry clear or is it dark like JB Weld? The reason I ask is I'm using a light-colored wood for the scales and if the scale doesn't sit right on the tang then the dark epoxy would really stand out.
 
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