Knife scale replacement hardware?

C

ch46

Joined
Jun 3, 2001
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198
Howdy all. Wasn't quite sure where to put this.
I'm looking to replace the scales on my EDC fixed blade. I don't wish to use the existing screws to affix the slabs. Any suggestions ref. reasonably simple bolts/rivets, etc.,. for installing the scales without useing a tap?
Thanks in advance, Ray
 
You should be able to find what you are looking for from Texas Knife Supply or Jantz to name a few.
 
Thanks. I know the hardware is available, I'm looking for suggestions on WHAT to use. Something fairly simple. I have access to a drill press and simple hand tools.
 
the job could be fairly simple or complicated, some of which depends on the knife. i rehandled an old carbon steel tramontina bowie a few years back, tested my patience for sure.
Texas knife makers sells a few types of pins, Corby bolts are neat and look pretty nice when finished!
good luck
gene
 
IVANKERLEY said:
the job could be fairly simple or complicated, some of which depends on the knife. i rehandled an old carbon steel tramontina bowie a few years back, tested my patience for sure.
Texas knife makers sells a few types of pins, Corby bolts are neat and look pretty nice when finished!
good luck
gene
Click to expand...

Howdy. Its a CRKT Kasper Companion. The current scales are held on with tiny screws (I will not be using the current screws/holes). I want to remove them, polish the knife and install Tru Ivory scales.
 
are they torx screws or regular philips?
I will say that drilling through the handle can present problems and needs to be approach carefully, i believe carbide bits might work with a cutting fluid, that or anneal the handle (ive read that its a pain).
Doable but feasible with hand tools, dunno.
you could always epoxy the scales on, good epoxy used properly will hold forever and would need to be chiseled off the knife...
cool knife! ivory would look cool
gene
 
IVANKERLEY said:
are they torx screws or regular philips?
I will say that drilling through the handle can present problems and needs to be approach carefully, i believe carbide bits might work with a cutting fluid, that or anneal the handle (ive read that its a pain).
Doable but feasible with hand tools, dunno.
you could always epoxy the scales on, good epoxy used properly will hold forever and would need to be chiseled off the knife...
cool knife! ivory would look cool
gene
Click to expand...

They're torx screws. Could you recommend a good epoxy?
Thanks again, Ray
 
i used jb weld but my handle was different as yours is a full tang rather than hidden... If you ask in the maintenance and embelishment forum you are likely to get many suggestions, i used jb weld because it was easy to find. Ive heard of roughing up the steel and material where they are going to be epoxied, supposed to be for more traction.
TNK suggests 30 min epoxy
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=314

gene
 
I would not rely on epoxy, especially if you do any cold weather hunting. The bond can fail, and will fail quite easily at sub zero temperatures.

When you get the existing scales off, test the tang with a file. If a file will cut it, it should be drillable. If you need to anneal the tang and want to try it, just shove the blade into a large potato as far as you need to protect the temper. Heat the exposed tang to cherry red and let cool.

There are many suitable fasteners. Perhaps the easiest and best is the Chicago screw, also known as the sex bolt. It's a short threaded rod with two cap nuts. The nuts usually are slotted and their threaded holes do not come all the way through. Because there is thickness adjustment at both ends, they are very easy to fit to your scales.
 
Leftoverdj said:
I would not rely on epoxy, especially if you do any cold weather hunting. The bond can fail, and will fail quite easily at sub zero temperatures.
Click to expand...

so you've had it fail? what temps are we talking?
the epoxy should work fine for an edc fixed blade, ideally pins and epoxy
but it sounds like the OP has limited tools, etc. might not be feasible
gene
 
Old gunsmith's trick, Ivan. When you are epoxy bedding an action into a stock and have it stick, you shove the whole mess into the freezer for a day and whack it with a rubber mallet. It'll come loose.

And, yes, an epoxy to metal bond can fail at normal temperatures, too. It's just not predictable.

OP said he had a drill press. I presume he has a set of bits. Dunno what else he would need besides the common hand tools. Use the tang as a template to drill the scales.

For that matter, if he is willing to make it permanent, he can install pins made from cut off screws through the existing holes in the tang, drill corresponding oversized blind holes on the inside of the scales, and fill the blind holes with epoxy. That gives a mechanical lock with the screw threads as well as gluing.

btw, common household vinegar is an effective solvent before epoxy sets up. He'll also need clean cotton rags to remove any excess epoxy. Avoid Q tips, cotton balls, or anything else that sheds fibers.
 
but the drill press would likely only work well if he's able to anneal the handle, assuming it needs it (might, though dunno)... all i know is i couldnt drill through the tang on my old bowie even with the carbide bit. and being green like i was telling me to anneal the handle probably wouldve scared me off the project...
Maybe the OP would have better luck.
dunno my hidden tang has held up okay now for a couple years...
thanks for the info
gene
 
cover the blade especially the cutting edge and watch it, i had a few scares when handling etc.
I used card board and taped the hell out of it:)
better safe than sorry
gene
 
Gene, stick tangs are a different deal from a full tang. You can get a stick tang surrounded by epoxy so there is nowhere for a separation to start. There is also very little force trying to pull a stick tang from the handlle. I happily hilt Mora blanks by drilling oversized holes into antler sections and epoxying. The one precaution I do take is to cut a few shallow grooves into the sides of the tang to get a mechanical lock as well. A hacksaw or triangle file works for that.
 
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