Knife sharpeners

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Nov 24, 2012
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12
So I just got a really nice knife and it's about time for its first sharpening. With my past EDC knives I've just used a simple diamond knife sharpener that you pull the blade through, but I want to take good care of this knife.
1) Are there any dangers or negatives to this style of sharpening?
2) I've thought about buying a good whetstone to sharpen it. Is there a point where you may have too high of a grit? Also what is the point of whetstone with a low and high grit side?
3)Are there are any other good methods to get a really hard steel sharp that may take less skill?
 
So I just got a really nice knife and it's about time for its first sharpening. With my past EDC knives I've just used a simple diamond knife sharpener that you pull the blade through, but I want to take good care of this knife.
1) Are there any dangers or negatives to this style of sharpening?
2) I've thought about buying a good whetstone to sharpen it. Is there a point where you may have too high of a grit? Also what is the point of whetstone with a low and high grit side?
3)Are there are any other good methods to get a really hard steel sharp that may take less skill?

1. Yes, totally... Those types of sharpeners are basically hard carbide or the like, that will "tear" bits and pieces of the edge off which leaves a superficial edge that goes dull very quickly. In most cases they're at really obtuse angles too. Keep using them and you'll really thicken out your knife edge and wear it down faster than you should. Of course this is assuming you use it A LOT so if you've only used it a few times don't despair.
2)http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1014274-What-is-sharpening-a-knife-about <- This should answer pretty much everything abut that question

3) Question is kind of odd... Harder steels require harder and more aggressive abrasives. Diamond, water stones ( different from whetstones ) and maybe SiC (silicon carbide). But a lot of the Alluminum Oxide, carborundum and other cheapish style stone won't work too well on harder steels, or steels with higher wear resistance. S30V for example is often cited as being difficult to sharpen on some types of abrasive because of its high Vanadium content.

I would check out a DMT Aligner system if you really want something "fool-proof" and that will sharpen all your knives despite whatever steel they are. It's basically a clamp with guided rods that are set at a specific angle. Lansky and Smith's make similar products. They also all make Diamond "benchstones" and other field sharpeners. I think diamond abrasives are probably the best and most versatile way to go.


Anyway, hope that was concise. If not check out the Maintenance section like mkjellgren said, all your question should be answered there.
 
Lanskys are good but they efff up your edge near the tip and are impossible to get straight since the guide rods suck. Personally i would get a strop man hd compact and never let your edge dull just strop with green compound every night or few days. Oh and also sharpmaker is great! Razor edges far better then lansky and still easy to do if you can keep a knife straight
 
I like long, thin flat diamond 'stones'
My favourite being the DMT balisong red/blue fine and coarse

Remember to wash your stones off often!
 
Going out on a limb here, but what I use is a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener. That baby works, and works quick!

However, you can seriously mess up your blade with this miniature belt sander. I have. But I consider it part of life. When I travel, I take the whole kit-n-caboodle with me. Not very large at all, fits inside a rather small box. Here's a pic, with a 36 grit belt. There are numerous threads on Bladeforums about it. Use the Search to find them. BTW, once you become proficient with it, you likely won't fear messing up your blades... If you want to get a mirror polish on your blades, you can achieve that with this. This is my second one. I literally ran the crap out of the first one, and it gave up the ghost. Best $70 for a sharpening tool I ever spent, and well worth it. Here's a Q&D pic:

WorkSharp.jpg
 
Buy you a Smith ot Lansky Diamond set for $50 and remove the crappy sanded factory edge. After that you'll only need a couple of good strops and some compounds. I agree with the others. Never use the device you have on any knife.
 
So I just got a really nice knife and it's about time for its first sharpening. With my past EDC knives I've just used a simple diamond knife sharpener that you pull the blade through, but I want to take good care of this knife.
1) Are there any dangers or negatives to this style of sharpening?

I bolded the portion in the quote above, to make an important distinction about 'pull-through' sharpeners. As mentioned in other comments, the carbide style of pull-throughs can really tear up an edge, and really aren't a good solution. Those use carbide inserts that are shaped/ground like scissor edges, and they will grab, pinch and rip the steel from your knife edge. Not good at all for the life of your blade. However, if your pull-through uses rounded (rod-type) diamond inserts, it won't necessarily damage your edge, per se, because it doesn't grab, pinch & rip like the 'scissors' of the carbide types. The rounded rod-type inserts simply abrade the steel, which at least is a small step in a better direction, for sharpening's sake. It will be very limited in how sharp it'll make the edge, however. It basically just shapes the edge to a relatively symmetrical apex, at a fixed angle that might not be optimal. Once the apex is shaped, the very cutting edge will just be bottoming out in the 'V' formed by the inserts, and therefore can't get any sharper.

I think you would benefit in trying a more conventional sharpener (stones, guided systems, etc.), as one's ability and technique will be the only limitation, instead of the tool itself.

Expanding on your other questions:
2) I've thought about buying a good whetstone to sharpen it. Is there a point where you may have too high of a grit? Also what is the point of whetstone with a low and high grit side?

How high you go in grit, is purely a matter of preference. That takes practice and time, and using the edges you create, to figure out what you like in an edge, for your uses.

A low/high double-sided grit configuration is just the basics, and usually the most cost-effective way to create a good, or even excellent cutting edge. Most will use the low-grit side to shape the bevel, and the high-grit side to refine it.

3)Are there are any other good methods to get a really hard steel sharp that may take less skill?

The guided systems (Edge Pro, Wicked Edge, Lansky, Gatco, DMT Aligner) are good for making very clean, pure edge bevels, when one otherwise might not have the freehand skills to do so. Still takes time to learn all that, however, as you still have to learn the fundamentals of using pressure, forming and recognizing the burr, and then refining to remove the burr. Also will learn a lot about the properties of different abrasives (diamond, silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, ceramics, natural stones) and how each works (or doesn't) for a given type of blade steel.
 
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[video=youtube;vnfazpde80Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnfazpde80Y&feature=player_detailpage#t=34s[/video]
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnfazpde80Y&feature=player_detailpage#t=34s[/video]

That's one really expensive knife sharpener! Buy a DMT Aligner set and use the rest of the money to take a nice vacation somewhere.... :D


Stitchawl
 
Going out on a limb here, but what I use is a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener. That baby works, and works quick!

However, you can seriously mess up your blade with this miniature belt sander. I have. But I consider it part of life. When I travel, I take the whole kit-n-caboodle with me. Not very large at all, fits inside a rather small box. Here's a pic, with a 36 grit belt. There are numerous threads on Bladeforums about it. Use the Search to find them. BTW, once you become proficient with it, you likely won't fear messing up your blades... If you want to get a mirror polish on your blades, you can achieve that with this. This is my second one. I literally ran the crap out of the first one, and it gave up the ghost. Best $70 for a sharpening tool I ever spent, and well worth it. Here's a Q&D pic:

WorkSharp.jpg

they make a knife sharpner just like that but for knifes only,
 
Going out on a limb here, but what I use is a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener. That baby works, and works quick!

However, you can seriously mess up your blade with this miniature belt sander. I have. But I consider it part of life. When I travel, I take the whole kit-n-caboodle with me. Not very large at all, fits inside a rather small box. Here's a pic, with a 36 grit belt. There are numerous threads on Bladeforums about it. Use the Search to find them. BTW, once you become proficient with it, you likely won't fear messing up your blades... If you want to get a mirror polish on your blades, you can achieve that with this. This is my second one. I literally ran the crap out of the first one, and it gave up the ghost. Best $70 for a sharpening tool I ever spent, and well worth it. Here's a Q&D pic:

WorkSharp.jpg

You've peaked my interest in this sharpener. I've been reading reviews and looking at the videos on the manufacturer's website for the past hour. I've read some comments about being careful not to round out tips when sharpening. What has your experience been with this other than burning up a previous unit? Tha must have been a lot of sharpening! How abut giving us your review of the Work Sharp? I just recveived a Kershaw 1760 Skyline and a 1670S30V Blur. Some may consider these entry level knives, and they may just be, but I'd like to take care of them and treat them right. Thanks in advance.
 
You've peaked my interest in this sharpener. I've been reading reviews and looking at the videos on the manufacturer's website for the past hour. I've read some comments about being careful not to round out tips when sharpening. What has your experience been with this other than burning up a previous unit? Tha must have been a lot of sharpening! How abut giving us your review of the Work Sharp? I just recveived a Kershaw 1760 Skyline and a 1670S30V Blur. Some may consider these entry level knives, and they may just be, but I'd like to take care of them and treat them right. Thanks in advance.

Sure thing. In my opinion, once you get the hang of sharpening knives with this, you'll find you can do so much more with it that you never imagined. If you get some of the 36 or 40 grit belts, you'll have a tool that will remove serious amounts of metal in no time. So, you can completely change the look of your knives, if you so wish. You can round the spine on blades. You can take apart knives that may have file work on a metal back spacer in a folder and polish it to a mirror. You can round off the G10 edges on knife scales that may be a bit too sharp for your pocket. Heck, you can do major rough shaping on wooden objects, such as briar blocks from pipe kits, and you can do it FAST...

As for sharpening knives, yes, care should be taken to not blunt the tips of knife blades. To avoid that, use the part of the belt up near the top where the belts won't flex as much, or ride it against the belt at the top. You will learn how to let up on the pressure so as not to blunt the tip. Your imagination will provide you with many things you can do with it.

The best thing in my opinion is to get one of them, and experiment with it. You will come up with your own ideas.

Here's another one: if you have the sole of a shoe come undone and you reglue it using Shoe Goo or Super Glue Gel or some other glue, and have something of a mess on the sole or edges of the shoe, you can use the Worksharp to clean it all up and look great.

The reason I burned up the first one is very simply I abused it. I used the heck out of it. I ground knife blades down, a lot, removing so much steel to reshape blades, not simply reprofile them, that it undoubtedly took a toll on the tool. I definitely got my money's worth with the Worksharp. If you use it just to sharpen the knives around the house and things like that, it should last you for years............

I hope this has been helpful.

Good luck!
 
Sure thing. In my opinion, once you get the hang of sharpening knives with this, you'll find you can do so much more with it that you never imagined. If you get some of the 36 or 40 grit belts, you'll have a tool that will remove serious amounts of metal in no time. So, you can completely change the look of your knives, if you so wish. You can round the spine on blades. You can take apart knives that may have file work on a metal back spacer in a folder and polish it to a mirror. You can round off the G10 edges on knife scales that may be a bit too sharp for your pocket. Heck, you can do major rough shaping on wooden objects, such as briar blocks from pipe kits, and you can do it FAST...

As for sharpening knives, yes, care should be taken to not blunt the tips of knife blades. To avoid that, use the part of the belt up near the top where the belts won't flex as much, or ride it against the belt at the top. You will learn how to let up on the pressure so as not to blunt the tip. Your imagination will provide you with many things you can do with it.

The best thing in my opinion is to get one of them, and experiment with it. You will come up with your own ideas.

Here's another one: if you have the sole of a shoe come undone and you reglue it using Shoe Goo or Super Glue Gel or some other glue, and have something of a mess on the sole or edges of the shoe, you can use the Worksharp to clean it all up and look great.

The reason I burned up the first one is very simply I abused it. I used the heck out of it. I ground knife blades down, a lot, removing so much steel to reshape blades, not simply reprofile them, that it undoubtedly took a toll on the tool. I definitely got my money's worth with the Worksharp. If you use it just to sharpen the knives around the house and things like that, it should last you for years............

I hope this has been helpful.

Good luck!


Why not just buy a 1x30 from harbor freight thats 30 bucks cheaper?
 
To keep from rounding the tip when using the Work Sharp, don't pull the tip all the way across the belt. Stop when the tip is about half way across the belt. Lighten up the pressure when approaching the tip of the knife. It is a great little tool and has a lot of good features about it. I use mine without the guides most of the time. If you grind near the top by the bearing, there is less give in the belt, thereby reducing the amount of beveling. I have sharpened garden tools, machetes, and used it to shape a hand grip on some homemade strops. If I need to re-profile a blade and take a lot of metal off, I use my Worksharp and then follow up with my paper wheels. The two make a great team. There are more belt choices from the Mfg. now than when I bought mine. For me it was a good investment

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
Convenience. I don't have a workshop, no space for one, unfortunately. For me, it's the counter top next to the kitchen sink, and my kitchen table. That's it. The harbor freight 1X30 would be great but just won't work for me. Too big. Also, I have a 7"X9.5"X5.5" box that holds the WS, including a bunch of belts, plus polishing compound that goes with me in my car trunk when I travel, which is frequent.

Also, the Worksharp belt angle can be adjusted rotated for different jobs. Bottom line: convenience and adaptability.

Why not just buy a 1x30 from harbor freight thats 30 bucks cheaper?
 
Excellent advice.

To keep from rounding the tip when using the Work Sharp, don't pull the tip all the way across the belt. Stop when the tip is about half way across the belt. Lighten up the pressure when approaching the tip of the knife. It is a great little tool and has a lot of good features about it. I use mine without the guides most of the time. If you grind near the top by the bearing, there is less give in the belt, thereby reducing the amount of beveling. I have sharpened garden tools, machetes, and used it to shape a hand grip on some homemade strops. If I need to re-profile a blade and take a lot of metal off, I use my Worksharp and then follow up with my paper wheels. The two make a great team. There are more belt choices from the Mfg. now than when I bought mine. For me it was a good investment

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
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