Knife sharpening question?

B

Biff Spurlock

Joined
Jan 26, 2000
Messages
23
First, let me repeat that this board is absolutely the coolest. Now, to the question: How do I get my knives "hair-flinging" sharp? I have a Spyderco "Tri-angle Sharpmaker." Will this do it? I can get my knives pretty sharp, sometimes sharp enough to shave, but not shave very well. I know I'm missing something.
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I have used this sharpener on Spyderco, Benchmade, Ka-bar, and Messermeister Knives with about the same relative level of success. Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Also, I have a little, like maybe 2" or so, Imperial lock-back knife that someone gave me. I'm not real impressed with its quality. Isn't Imperial the same as Schrade? I know Schrade sells a knife that looks identical except mine is blue. I can get it reasonably sharp but it won't hold an edge worth beans.
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Again, any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks again,
Biff
 
Since no one else has answered I will take a shot. I assume you have the Spyderco 203 or 204. I can get my knives to shave Ok but not really scarry sharp. Actually with most any method, Lansky, EdgePro, 204, etc. I get my knives to this level of sharpness. Scarry sharp I think of as in my old carbon steel wood chisels. Honed free hand, they cut the hair with out the feeling the hair being shaved. I attribute this in part to the steel. I can't do this with my chisels manufactured after say the 1960's ( more chrome in them). These are very old and probably forged. In part its due to the angle which is say 25 degrees max and probably less.

I can't get this sharp on my knives which are SS ats34, ats55, aus-8 etc. They shave but not near as easy.

You have to make sure you are getting a burr. I think the burr is easier to feel on carbon steel than stainless. Once you get the burr keep at it until the burr is over the whole blade than switch over to the side of the blade and get the burr on that side. After this proceed to the fine stones.

One problem with the Spyderco stones is that they are slow if you have a knife which the angle is steeper than the 40 degree included that Spyderco is set for. It can take a long, long time. And most knives have a steeper edges from the factory. I use other methods to rebevel the knife edges the first time. After this the Spyderco is good for maintaining the edge.

Back to shaving edges, I find stropping helps but I often skip this. My strop is a hard leather wheel with a shaft that I chuck in a cordless drill (to strop / hone at slow speed. I use a green honing compound with. WoodCraft Supply sells the leather wheel and Lee Valley sell the green compound. It will improve the edge but its really not that necessary except to impress people.

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Roger Blake
 
Welcome to the forums. I don't know exactly what style the tri angle sharpmaker is, so I can't give you any tips on that right now.
Imperial and Schrade has a website, I can't remember the url right now. You should be able to find it on yahoo, their online catalog should have info on the knife your wondering about as long as its still being sold. If it isn't there, I'm sure somebody here knows about it.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
Roger is right, the 204 is great but only if the angle on your knife is already about 20 degrees and an even grind at that. The Apex is the best that I've used for scary edges.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
I have a new favorite method that the longer I have been playing with it, the better I like it, and it is as follows.

First I use a medium stone, or medium diamond, free hand, lansky or whatever. Get the burr on one side then the other just like you normally would.

Then I go straight to a plain old set of crock sticks and alternate strokes counting to about 25 per side or so. Maybe more, if needed.

This has been leaving me with a hair shaving edge thanks to the crock sticks, but it also has some tooth, or bite, thanks to the medium diamond, that cuts flesh and rope like crazy, and is more durable than the polished edges.

 
knzn,

That's exactly what I have done the last couple of years with my DMT and my Sharpmaker 203. Start with the medium diamond stone and then finish the edge with a few strokes on the 203. The DMT Aligner also helps me to compensate with the lack of a back beveling angle on the 203.
 
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