knife sharpening

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Feb 24, 2012
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does anyone know of the best stones to use for sharpening and best techniques? I have a smiths ceramic stone and a smaller one thats finer grid. i can get it pretty sharp but any ideas for sharpening so the blade is hair popping sharp?
 
yes, but i dont want to go to electric and knife sharpeners like taht that only give you one edge i want to still be able to do it manualy
 
I think there are a lot of stone types that work: arkansas stones, waterstones, diamond, synthetic.

All things considered, I personally like the diamond and ceramic stones. Most people agree that some advantages of the diamond stones is that good ones will cut better/faster than the ceramics. Both diamond and ceramic have the advantage of lasting a long time and staying flat, so you don't have to lap them to maintain.

If you go with diamond, you prob want several grits ranging from coarse, to medium, to fine, to extra or ultra fine. For example, the DMT stones which I own, you can get large 2-side bench stones that have coarse/extra-coarse and fine/extra-fine sides. Those 4 sharpening grits are probably enough to cover most general hand-sharpening needs. They won't sharpen recurves too well, if you have recurve blades you'll need to get some kind of rounded ceramic or dmt diamond hone for that special task (a Spyderco Sharpmaker also handles recurves well).

As for technique, there are lots of threads here and videos on youtube. Here's a thread I had just the other day on freehanding techniques, it includes some video links and tips.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/927731-Question-on-freehanding-technique
 
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If I were starting out from scratch again I'd just get a 1000 grit King, a 6000 grit King (waterstones - about 60 bucks for both) and get a video from Murray Carter. There are many many methods, stone types, strategies one can chose, but for simplicity of procedure and clarity of technique free-handing, I don't think the method he teaches can be beat. I didn't start out being a fan of his, but as my style and technique progressed from method to method I found myself doing things his way more and more.
 
ill look into both of them, thanks guys for the tips, alot of it is just practicing too which im starting to do more, i jsut get nervous when im sharpening my expensive blades!
 
You should definitely, DEFINITELY buy 2 or 3 cheap blades to practice with, if you don't already have some old pieces of steel or beater knives lying around.

I just bought the following blades at Knifecenter (mainly because they're cheap and I can beat the snot of them while learning sharpening, without fouling up my nicer blades). All three put together were just over $40, but they use a decent 440 stainless that will be easy to practice with.

http://www.knifecenter.com/item/SWFL2
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/SW3400
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/SW640
 
Just to give you another avenue to explore in terms of sharpening, I use sandpaper for my sharpening. Richard up here has given me many tips and I can now put razor edges on my blades with a little work. It is easy to find, relatively inexpensive, replaceable, has lots of variety and is VERY versatile. You can make so many different kinds of sharpening set-ups for recurves, convex edges, etc... the only limit is your imagination. Also, since there are so many grits and ways to utilize the paper, I have found that I can tweak my edges to get them EXACTLY as I want them. Also, do not forget about stropping and compound; it makes a HUGE difference in sharpness!!

Trust me, Sandpaper is a wonderful avenue to go down when experimenting. If you ever need help with anything, don't be afraid to ask questions my friend. Heck, I am still learning :o

In terms of practice, I just use old and cheapy folders from my past. I bet you could find some inexpensive blades to toy around with!



Oh, and Richard, thank you SOOOOOO much for your help recently :thumbup:
I took one of my folders up to 220 grit paper to make it a better EDC and it shaves :eek::D
 
The best thing I did was do a little bit of research and then jump in with both feet. Personally, I went for high-end stuff: DMT duosharp stones, Spyderco large ceramic stones, etc. But whether you've got a $200 DMT diamond stone or a $5 Arkansas stone, the next step is the hardest and most exciting: just start doing it! :D

I agree with maximus: for your first real sharpening, do not use your Sebenza! A) because it's valuable, and B) because those are tricky to sharpen anyway with their convexed edges. I suggest sharpening someone else's cheap kitchen knife. A) if you screw up, it's not your knife and not an expensive knife anyway, and B) if you don't ruin the knife and can put a halfway-decent edge on it, your friend will be thrilled!

I watched a lot of videos and read a lot before I started sharpening; there's definitely a lot of information that can help you understand before you start, like for example, the way a burr forms and gets removed. It's nice to see those electron scanning microscope pictures of edges before and after sharpening to see what is actually happening to the edge. A 15X loupe is a good idea, too, as it lets you see for yourself what is happening with your edge and whether you are really ready to move on to the next stone.

Some other advice: perfect getting the right angle and *maintaining* that angle during the full sharpening stroke. An easy way is to hold the knife perpendicular to the stone (that's 90), then half of that (45), then half of that (22.5), then ease down to whatever you need (15 or whatever). And make sure to compensate for the curvature of the blade by lifting the handle angle when you approach the tip. Also, do not sweep the tip off the stone, keep it on the stone and stop on the stone. this prevents rounding the tip. Also, for "hair popping" sharpness, as you mentioned, you need to spend the appropriate time and patience on the edge "refinement" with the fine stones and the strop, using a nice light touch.
 
yes, but i dont want to go to electric and knife sharpeners like taht that only give you one edge i want to still be able to do it manualy
Are you talking about the pull through ones with a set angle like the Chef's Choice powered sharpeners? If so, there are powered options available that lets you put your own angle on the edge like a belt sander.

Though the tradeoff between manual and powered would be speed for control. Any mistake you make will be very costly, oftentimes eating up or burning the blade. With manual sharpening mistakes are only minor scratches, an ugly bevel, or a dull edge. I personally find powered sharpening useful with frequent sharpening or touchups or with use on more modern steels with high vanadium content. Though admittedly available diamond stones can allow you to sharpen any steel or ceramic blade, I still prefer powered sharpening because my edges actually look prettier that way. And given that it's how most factory knife edges are put on, I'd say it's one of the tried and true methods.
 
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