- Joined
- Jun 18, 2011
- Messages
- 97
Knife shaves hair on one side,Which side needs to be hit on the stone an extra time? Or is there something else?Any help appreciated
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
knife shaves hair only on one side?
- Thread starter chadsims44
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2014
- Messages
- 2,343
Use a count down method on each stone
9 flip 9 flip 8 flip 8 flip 7 flip 7 flip etc etc down to 1. Then do 1 flip 1 flip 1 flip 1 flip for several cycles.
Do this with every stone till you get to the strop reducing pressure as the count goes down. . This will eliminate the bur early, and make your final edge scary.
Some may say overkill, but it definitely works.
9 flip 9 flip 8 flip 8 flip 7 flip 7 flip etc etc down to 1. Then do 1 flip 1 flip 1 flip 1 flip for several cycles.
Do this with every stone till you get to the strop reducing pressure as the count goes down. . This will eliminate the bur early, and make your final edge scary.
Some may say overkill, but it definitely works.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2014
- Messages
- 937
^^good advice there. Will have to try that myself, I usually just do a sort of haphazard version of this till I can't feel a bur anymore.
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2014
- Messages
- 2,343
Yeah a strop really works wonders.
And as I start getting up in grit, I'll make one clean pass without lifting the stone. Instead of the multiple strokes per pass on the coarse stones.
That way you don't get any variance in the edge.
If I concentrate on making the edge look good with a perfectly clean, super high polish, with no blemishes, extreme sharpness cones along with it.
Constantly check with a marker that one pass takes off all marker. And a big thing that helped my edges, was using a marker every time I switched stones, to account for the different thickness of each one.
Getting a drill stop collar for the edge pro is a life saver.
On other systems, just use that sharpie like crazy!
I'll even hit with the course side of the strop before I get to the 2000 and 3000 grit polishing tapes to be sure there's no residual junk on the edge before I really put the final passes on it.
The result is a crazy mirror edge that feels like it'll split an atom.
Sorry if that was a bit much, but I have severe sharpening ocd! If at the end of the day, I can run my fingernail Dien the edge, and feel even the SLIGHTEST bump, I'm breaking out the edge pro still in my work clothes haha.
And as I start getting up in grit, I'll make one clean pass without lifting the stone. Instead of the multiple strokes per pass on the coarse stones.
That way you don't get any variance in the edge.
If I concentrate on making the edge look good with a perfectly clean, super high polish, with no blemishes, extreme sharpness cones along with it.
Constantly check with a marker that one pass takes off all marker. And a big thing that helped my edges, was using a marker every time I switched stones, to account for the different thickness of each one.
Getting a drill stop collar for the edge pro is a life saver.
On other systems, just use that sharpie like crazy!
I'll even hit with the course side of the strop before I get to the 2000 and 3000 grit polishing tapes to be sure there's no residual junk on the edge before I really put the final passes on it.
The result is a crazy mirror edge that feels like it'll split an atom.
Sorry if that was a bit much, but I have severe sharpening ocd! If at the end of the day, I can run my fingernail Dien the edge, and feel even the SLIGHTEST bump, I'm breaking out the edge pro still in my work clothes haha.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2011
- Messages
- 795
Its a good start , the real trick to making this work is to use extremely light pressure , barely the weight of the blade/stone. This way you are abrading any burr in place , without flip flopping it over and over.
Having a burr free edge before moving on to any stropping variation makes a world of difference.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2011
- Messages
- 97
so everyone thinks it is a bur,so just keep going back and forth,thanks I thought one side needed more times
One thing I always do to nock the bur down, or keep it from forming too large is to switch to using my left hand sharpening. (assuming your right handed) Just 15 or 20 strokes then back to dominant hand. Keep pressure very light when finishing up with your dominant hand (man did I just set up some easy jokes!)
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2014
- Messages
- 866
If your knife only shaves in one direction, it's due to a burr, this is true. However, I would recommend against stropping as a method of burr removal. You're really just straightening out the weakened metal, which will collapse quickly during use and your edge retention will be less than optimal. Instead, you should be concentrating on forming a clean apex from the start, without forming a burr, and using other methods (e.g., microbeveling or cutting into soft wood) to deburr if needed.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,435
Stropping with appropriate compound WILL get rid of the burr. Not just straightening it, but abrading it away. With the right compound (appropriate to the steel), stropping is probably the easiest way to remove the burr, without the additional worries of creating a new burr, as can happen on stones if the touch isn't expertly light. It IS a very good thing to work on that technique, and minimize the burrs on stones as you go; but anything that's left can easily be cleaned up on a firm/hard strop with well-suited compound.
The 'right' compound is one that'll cleanly strip the burr away with a light touch and minimal strokes. On tenaciously ductile burr-holding steels like VG-10, ATS-34 or 420HC, a white rouge (aluminum oxide) compound on a hard-backed strop of denim, linen or canvas makes cleaning up the burrs almost effortless, as compared to trying to 'flip' the burr multiple times to break it off. If burrs are very light & thin, green compound on leather works well on 1095 and similar simple steels, and sometimes on 420HC if the burrs aren't too thick.
David
The 'right' compound is one that'll cleanly strip the burr away with a light touch and minimal strokes. On tenaciously ductile burr-holding steels like VG-10, ATS-34 or 420HC, a white rouge (aluminum oxide) compound on a hard-backed strop of denim, linen or canvas makes cleaning up the burrs almost effortless, as compared to trying to 'flip' the burr multiple times to break it off. If burrs are very light & thin, green compound on leather works well on 1095 and similar simple steels, and sometimes on 420HC if the burrs aren't too thick.
David
Last edited: