Knife Steel: What is the best for me?

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Blunderbuss

Joined
Nov 15, 2013
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Hello Y'all,

This is my first post so, well, hello. I must cop to knowing very little about knife steel, or steel period. I don't even have what you'd call an expert's handle on knives. (intended, yes) About the way I judge a knife is by manufacturer. I trust Buck, CRKT, Gerber, Benchmade etc. Price is also a usually good indicator for me - if it's $9.99 I don't want it. Outside of this, loads of ignorance (on knives! I'm by no means dull in general!) There, that's my bio for this post.

I am looking for an everyday folding knife. Something with around a 3-4" blade and a very secure locking mechanism. This knife will also, however, be occasionally brought into the great outdoors and be called upon to do chores that come up with kayak camping in the Atchafalaya basin (I am in Baton Rouge, Louisiana) which you may imagine as an enormous swamp with bayous all around it - in other words, paradise. I'd like a knife that LASTS. Not one requiring replacement every couple of years. My Buck 110 I've had since it was given me when I was 16yo, I'm 37 now. The blade's noticeably thinner but the knife is serviceable still. Why not keep using it or replace it with another 110? It is far too big for pocket carry every day.

The steel type I'd prefer would be durable, as in not brittle at all. Sharpness and the ability to hold an edge are of course important, but secondary to durability.

If y'all could recommend a few knives meeting these criteria, that'd be great. Please be sure to also name the steel best suited for me.

My wish list: I would like a thumb stud for fast, one handed opening and a good solid locking mechanism as well. Liner locks are fine, so long as they've a GREAT reputation for staying locked! A belt/pocket clip is also a must. I like partially serrated blades and generally prefer tanto 'tips' (dunno the jargon for it) as they seem a far better choice to use to pry things with. I'm not closed to the idea of drop points, however. Please keep in mind this will be a daily knife - wallet, keys, phone, pistol (it stays in the car) and knife type of thing. So please nothing too gigantic.

I really do appreciate y'all reading all this and will also appreciate whatever information y'all give me.

Thanks,
Blunderbuss

Edit: Thicker blades preferred but not deal breakers if they're slim.

Price: No more than $100.
 
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You haven't said anything about price, but you can't go wrong with a ZT. I would recommend a 0550 or 0560 they're both phenomenal knives and are around $200. The 0560 has Elmax steel which has pretty much all of the edge retention you'll ever need the 0550 has S35VN which is softer, but is definitely no slouch.
 
If you think the 110 is to big I wouldn't go with ZT other than maybe the 801. I would instead look at some of Spydercos offerings, I have had my Caly 3.5 VG10 in my pocket since I got it and its amazing. I also think VG10 would be a great steel for you as it holds an edge very well, it is still fairly easy to sharpen, you can get an insane edge on it, it is extremely corrosion resistant, and its as tough as a folder steel needs to be.
 
I thnk 154CM would best suit your needs.

Excellent corrosion resistance, edge holding and toughness. A very good choice for an all around premium quality steel.

Keep in mind not all steels are created equal. Even the same steel but from different brands and sources can vary greatly.

The Heat Treatment will have more to do then anything with the steels performance.

I've found that Benchmade in particular but not exclusively does an exceptional job with their 154CM blades.

Best of luck.
 
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The smaller the knife, the less it will like prying. Get a cheap pry bar before you wreck your nice new knife.
There are hundreds of knives that meet your description. The Case trapperlock comes to mind.
 
Kershaw Blur is a good knife, both the standard Sandvik 14C28n and the S30V version. Spyderco Endura or Stretch in either VG-10 or (my personal fave) ZDP-189. ZDP-189 has high toughness and takes and keeps a really sharp edge. You also can't go wrong with a Benchmade Griptilian. Avaliable in 154cm, D2, S30V and some other steels on sprint runs. The Spyderco Para-Military 2 is very nice as well. Depends on your budget.
 
Let's focus on steel, not knives, as that was your question.

I'm a simpleton so here is my simpleton approach to steel. In my mind, there are 4 categories of steel. Four and four only.

1) There is carbon steel. It is very tough and is more likely to bend or dent than break or chip. It is favored by many for outdoor woods knives for this reason. You can pound on it without worrying too much if you'll bung up the blade badly. Also takes a very fine edge for working with wood, usually holds an edge reasonably well. But, it can rust. Whether or not this is a problem depends on where you take your knives and how much TLC you give them.

2) There is stainless that is less good than carbon. It is usually very soft, holds an edge horribly and is gummy when you sharpen it meaning that it's "easy" to sharpen but it holds a burr edge and is difficult to hone. Some of this is a result of the base steel but a lot of it has to do with the heat treatment done by the knife maker. I find that 420J2 and Victorninox Inox to be too soft and gummy.

3) There is stainless that behaves roughly on par with decent carbon steel. It is relatively easy to sharpen, may be a tick harder to hone, holds an edge reasonably well or at least comparably with carbon. The reputation of the heat treatment of the manufacturer is critical here. I like Buck's 420HC, Schrade USA (no longer around, not to be confused with current Schrade) Schrade + and Opinel's Inox (Sanvik 12C27) to in this group. I think most folks would put most reputable Aus 8 in this group too.

4) There is stainless that behaves "better" than decent carbon where "better" usually means either a toothier edge (more carbides) or longer edge retention. But better also generally means harder to sharpen and more prone to chipping.

Obviously I'm biased. I choose either carbon steel or mid grade stainless.

Moving to suggestions for knives... I would take a close look at the Opinel Outdoors. It's primarily made for sailors with a partially serrated blade for quick cutting rope and I've super impressed with their Inox.

My backpacking/ski touring pocket knife is a plain Opinel, which is a little trickier in wet conditions due to the wood. But, the locking mechanism is the most foul resistant of any locking mechanism I've found. You can drag the knife through sand and while the lock ring will grind and complain, it will still lock up with no chance of the lock mechanism failing from the grit. I've also found them to be much, much, much, much tougher than any of the Buck lock backs I've owned (6, 4 of which developed blade play under hard use).

Opinels are not for everybody though. You do need to maintain them to get the most out of them.
 
SM100 or Stellite 6K.....okay, on second thought, CPM 154 or 154 CM are good all round steels, as Scurvy noted.
 
PatrickKnight said:
If you think the 110 is to big I wouldn't go with ZT other than maybe the 801. I would instead look at some of Spydercos offerings, I have had my Caly 3.5 VG10 in my pocket since I got it and its amazing. I also think VG10 would be a great steel for you as it holds an edge very well, it is still fairly easy to sharpen, you can get an insane edge on it, it is extremely corrosion resistant, and its as tough as a folder steel needs to be.
Click to expand...

The 0550 is about the same size and weight of the 0801 and the 0560 is bigger, but also about the same weight. All of these knives are only about an ounce and a half lighter than the Buck 110 which is hardly noticeable.
 
I like tool steels a lot. Some people don't like them because they are more prone to corrosion than stainless.

My favorite tool steels are:
D2
CPM M4

I like stainless ok my faves being:
ZDP-189
M390
VG-10
Sandvik 14C28N
CPM SxxV series

Carbon steel is good too, but also corrosion prone. 1095 would be my fave.
 
I'm not snobby Or maybe I am? I prefer a tough easy to sharpen steel over a "super" steel, steels like VG-10, S30V, S90V, ZDP-189 etc have proven too brittle for my uses. (although M4 I was pretty happy with, but it's not stainless) I've really enjoyed good old AUS8, 8cr13mov is alright too, the Sandvik steel that kershaw uses is pretty good as well.

Remember, stainless is just that, stain LESS. Not rust free.

If you'd like a recommendation for a folding knife, I like the Cold Steel triad locking knives. The steel is AUS8 which is stainless, strong and easy to sharpen. The locks are amazingly strong (they may stick a little at first but wear in nicely) and the handles are mostly G-10 and have a very coarse texture which I like. Plus they're very light weight for their size. I've got the 4" Hold Out in my pocket today.
 
+1 on the comment about getting a mini pry tool instead of using the knife for it; cutting instruments are for cutting, pry tools for prying.

That said, if you're still partial to tantos and partial serrations you could do worse than a Benchmade griptillian. 154cm is a breeze to sharpen, the axis lock is ambidextrous and sturdy. The FRN handles, while light, are quite strong. They carry well in the pocket and don't demand too much real estate. Finally, they're reasonably costed, with street prices under $100.

I've heard great things about CPM 3V, although it is usually used on higher-costed knives and isn't stainless. It IS super tough, and can take lots of abuse without much edge damage.

I've heard decent things about the cold steel recon series, which come in many flavors and are in your price range.

Perhaps a salt series knife for excellent corrosion resistance? I know spyderco and benchmade both produce reasonably costed salt series that are nigh impervious to rust, a consideration for the kayaking environment.

Best of luck to ya!
 
A lot of good suggestions so far.

You mentioned 3"-4" blade length....BM 154CM Grip.
Thumb stud and a good lock.......BM 154CM Grip.
Tough, easy to sharpen.......BM 154CM Grip.
Not to heavy+ kayak camping (water).....BM 154CM Grip.
All this from a guy that likes ZT, and also loves M4 steel.
 
Hi Blunderbuss!

Good questions and commments. Here is my two cents worth of advice from decades of using and collecting knives.

Steel, what it is, how it is made, how it is hardened or tempered, how it is used in the production process, and it's relationship to a particular knife is a very complicated subject.

I understand some of the intricacies, but I usually refer to my knife guru Mr. Joe Talmadge, Master Bladesmith's article on the subject for questions like this.

Here is the link to the thorough and well written article which is worth printing or saving for any serious knife afficianado. Few knife owners possess the information contained in this article which is sad to say.

http://www.zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml

Here is my one knife (well two) recommendations, Spyderco Delica, or it bigger brother the Endura. These have all the basics and millions have been sold to mostly satisfied customers. VG10 is a great knife steel, better than 154CM and many others in my personal opinion.


Here is a great Youtube video about the Spyderco Delica that you might enjoy watching.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4K5iHf7GpE


I hope you spend the time to learn about knives, their production, and various styles and features. There is a vast knife universe to be explored.
 
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Given where you live, you might do best with a stainless steel. M390 is incredibly good steel. Elmax is also a great stainless steel. S30V or S35VN are also good. S35VN would be a bit tougher. Powder steel is better than traditional steel.

From my perspective, you might want to reconsider brands like Gerber and reconsider thick blades vs thin blades that cut much better, plain edge vs. serrated, drop point vs. tanto.

Welcome to the forum.
 
This might have just entered the mix, but some of you will have to start over...
"Price: No more than $100."

I don't think it's available in half-serrated, but this is my favorite "rough-work" folder. It's large enough certainly, but not heavy. Easily less than $80-$85, and you could get a factory-second from the KershawGuy on the forum here for less than that. I've had three "Blems" before from him for about $60 or so each. The Blem is just a cosmetic blemish, making the knife sell much cheaper but absolutely still 100% great knife. It is a manual "flipper" which is very reliable over time...no springs to fail. Easy to deploy.
I like the Kershaw JunkYardDog v.2.2, link follows:
http://kershaw.kaiusaltd.com/knives/knife/junkyard-dog-ii
 
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Take a look at the Spyderco Native 5. The new lockback design is very stout, CPM S35VN takes a sharp edge and maintains a good working edge for quite some time, it has a slim profile and is easy on the pocket.
 
if you are new to steel, start with 154CM or VG-10. I find them to be good baselines to compare others. From there, you can branch out to other stainless... CPM154, CpmS30V, S35VN, etc.

Also, you should check out some carbon/tool steels... 1095, O1, L6, A2, etc.

All the different options is what makes this hobby so much fun. You will eventually find what you like.
 
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