Knife stock removal. Scales?

[DaveHb]

Had couple old planer blades wanted to see if could make a knife so did a slow stock removal to prevent ruining the temper.
All I know is it’s a high speed tool steel and seems to have a high Rockwell.
No steel cutting blade or drill bit I currently have touches it. Took a while to cut to length with a steel cutting wheel.
Is a diamond bit gonna be only way I can drill holes for scales?
Would using polyurethane and just glue scales on work?
Took a keen edge and held up to throwing plus cutting/chopping on aluminum.
Side note. Don’t laugh. This was All free hand with an angle grinder and 3in carpenters belt sander,. Convex grind with a 34 inclusive microbevel turned out to be cut pretty good

https://imgur.com/a/SlqaOVx

https://imgur.com/a/qyMROLe

https://imgur.com/a/WFaDoGq

 

[catspa]

I’ve made chisels from planer blades before, and you’re gonna have to anneal it before you can drill it. Even annealed, it’s tough stuff.

I annealed just the tangs, then stepped up to the 3/16” hole in 1/8” increments using cobalt bits at low speed. Best of luck to you.

Parker

 

[buckmaster96]

It's most likely t1 or one of the high tungsten steel alloys. (I've got some t1 planer blades on my bench right now) it's outrageously wear resistant so drilling will be a nightmare even annealed it won't be fun because of the tungsten content. I'd say either use or take it to a place with a plasma cutter and have them jet a couple holes in what will be the tang and either keep the blade in a bucket of water or wrapped in a wet towel to keep from ruining the h/t

 

[DavidABQ]

This may be heresy but how about just using a 2-part epoxy to hold the handle scales on?
Some epoxy and some clamps should get the job done.

 

[buckmaster96]

This may be heresy but how about just using a 2-part epoxy to hold the handle scales on?
Some epoxy and some clamps should get the job done.

They may hold ok but most likely they won't stay on. You could possible grind grooves into the metal to give the epoxy something to grab and then wrap the scales with leather or paracord but ro do it right you really need some sort of mechanical fastener

 

[killgar]

I use carbide drill bits to drill hardened steel. I get them from McMaster-carr, they sell a WIDE variety of them. From my experience, carbide will cut through hardened steel that cobalt barely tickles.

Of course carbide bits are BEST used with a drill press. Hand drills, not good.

The advice about heating the tang first is good advice, I've done that before with 59-60 RC D2 steel, then carbide bits.

 

[DaveHb]

They may hold ok but most likely they won't stay on. You could possible grind grooves into the metal to give the epoxy something to grab and then wrap the scales with leather or paracord but ro do it right you really need some sort of mechanical fastener

That was concern on epoxy.
Used for may things in my trade but it’s never felt dependable on steel.

 

[DaveHb]

I use carbide drill bits to drill hardened steel. I get them from McMaster-carr, they sell a WIDE variety of them. From my experience, carbide will cut through hardened steel that cobalt barely tickles.

Of course carbide bits are BEST used with a drill press. Hand drills, not good.

The advice about heating the tang first is good advice, I've done that before with 59-60 RC D2 steel, then carbide bits.

I almost picked up carbide bit today. Think I might give one a try.
I’ll use it for tile or glass sooner or later if it doesn’t work.
I was hoping to find some diamond bits but they’re all out of stock locally.

 

[killgar]

I almost picked up carbide bit today. Think I might give one a try.
I’ll use it for tile or glass sooner or later if it doesn’t work.
I was hoping to find some diamond bits but they’re all out of stock locally.

Slow drilling speed with carbide bits and hardened steel. And oil/cooling fluid at the contact point to keep the bit from overheating. You probably know all that already, but I have to mention it for my own peace of mind .

 

[Nsled]

Artu bits run hard and fast. They'll sit there spinning for a bit then bite and drill once the friction has heated and softened the steel. They look like a carbide masonry bit.