Knifecaring - will this specific gun oil work, and rubbing alcohol

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Moonw

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Nov 19, 2014
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I just picked up a can of this: http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/beretta-genuine-gun-oil-125-ml/ol36000209/ at my local hunting store shop. Beretta sells it under the "OL 37" name here in Europe, and the description here: http://www.weapon.bg/en/product/928/beretta-gun-oil-ol37-125ml.html sounds quite good. [Hope I'm not breaking any rules by posting a direct links to non-competitor sites?]

Any reason against using it on a kukri, especialy for both short and long-term storage? I see none, but I'd better check. The knife will be one used around, not a display piece...has little specks of black non-destructive rust, I just try to prevent the red variety.

Another topic: I also see that using rubbing alcohol for cleaning, since it contains about 30% water as well, is debated...some recommend it, some not...any experience with that? I'd use it for cleaning, then wipe it off, let it dry and then apply said gun oil. Any advice against such a "protocol"?

Although there might be better choices out there, I'm wondering if these will do. Thanks.
 
I am pretty sure if it is good for your gun steel as a preserving oil, there is no reason it should not work on the steel in HI khuks, I use my gun stuff on my knives all the time.

I always just dry clean with rags then treat with oil, rather than ever cleaning with alcohol
 
It's a pretty good oil. Just be careful of products like mil tech and frog lube. These are wonderful product on firearms, but they might mess up a fully polished blade because they molecular bond with the steel and lubricarion happens as heat builds from firing.

I use Hoppes #9 on my kukri's and swords because it doesn't leave a film behind like mil tech, which I prefer for my firearms. Militech 1 on guns and Hoppes#9 on kukris
 
I wish I had enough hoppes number 9 to use in my long guns let alone knives. I've resorted to remoil when it isn't hutung season, and the good ol #9 when it is. Can't find it like it used to be made anymore.
 
I really like Du Lite for preserving. It has a waxing agent that keeps the oil from running but doesn't build up. When you apply it removed the previous application and replaces it. But I have a hard time finding it. Many gun manufacturers use it to ship guns due to unknown long time storage, that's pretty much what it's made for.

Many places that do reblueing on guns also use it to stop the bluing process.

I mostly use Ballistol now. Been around forever but I only the last year or so started using it. Any oil will work, just a matter of keeping it oiled.

I just use car paste was on my wall hangers. Helps with fingerprints and keeps the blade well protected. I have some Mcguires that smells nice and I just fondle them from time to time and wax em while I'm bonding.
 
Yes, Ballistol has a long history, I'll try it when I finish this can. Thank you for your input as well.
 
just use mineral oil otherwise, especially if you have young children or animals in the house, ballistol is a great oil but it is toxic on consumption, mineral oil serves same purpose and is nontoxic and consumable -- I have both, where there are no critters runnin about, use ballistol every time, I only got a bunch last year probably same time as bawanna, I think we talked about it here.
 
Good points, on both accounts. I always thought horns needed some solution you'd get in the vet stores for hoof grooming.

As for the wooden handles...will the same oils work, or do you prefer something else? I was eyeing the "furniture spray", not sure that's the proper term, it's the stuff used after you wipe the dust off, it is antistatic but it contains a cocktail of waxes.
 
wood has a wide variety of special oils that enhance and preserve it-- mineral oil works there too, but BLO( also good for long term steel sotrage as it sticks into a fine layer that will need to be cleaned, but again good for long term metal storage) , pure tung oil, walnut oil and other staining and curing oils that can preserve in the long term ( like pure tung oil turns into a plastic like coating if you let it dry proper)

so wood is a special material that you should use special oils on, and you can polish most of these woods the dalbergia latifolia ( satisal) into a really high and fine polish, like glass in some cases using 800 grit :D, so its cool to get into imo.
 
BLO is the best choice for wood. It can be reapplied and it can be touched up. Sealed finishes are a pain to touch up but BLO can just be re applied.
 
Moon, The hoof stuff is approximately 90%+ mineral oil with just a touch of binders to cause it to thicken up a bit. At the price and the fact that you don't want to leave a lot of it on the blade just a very thin layer the pure mineral oil is a better choice price wise. And you can also soak horn and wood in it too keep them hydrated too. I just use plain mineral oil on all my blades since unlike firearms they don't have to worry about heat.
 
I clean my kukris with hot soapy water just try to keep it out of the handle/bolster area. I dry throughly and coat with a thin layer of mineral oil. Simple, cheap, and it works.
 
i use ballistol on all my carbon steel knives, swords and axes. it's a food grade product that won't poison you if you use your blades on food, or if you cut yourself. in fact, it's also a mild antiseptic & works on leather too (tho it will darken it). it is mineral oil based, does not deteriorate. a 50 year old tin is as good as a new one.
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mineral oil also works fin & is food grade. most other rust preventatives are not.

renaissance wax may be OK for museums under controlled atmospheres, not so good in the real world where the sharp pointy gets actually used. it's also a SOB to remove.
 
91% rubbing alcohol- for cleaning blade. Hands down the easiest, cheap, dissolves tree sap better than anything i have ever tried except gasoline maybe. Gasoline and dawn dish soap mix btw will remove anything (my secret recipe) dont get it on handles tho.

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil- Im beginning to like this stuff (thanks Karda) better than BLO. I believe it has better drying agents than regular BLO (few hrs vs. a day) and with sanding to 2000 grit you can get glass finish. Especially great on the dark satisal and harder woods. I dont care for the spray can and wish it came in liquid and maybe it does but i havent found it.

Mineral oil- I use this in between chopping sessions after cleaning when I dont chop much and just feel like playing with a certain blade. Main reason for this is my guitar sits by the couch where I play with my khuks and if its good enough for my Stratoblaster it good enough for my Khuks;) A good after sharpening wipe down as well. Good on sheaths too.

Hooflex- Goes on all horn handles- Lay it on thick! wipe it off next day. Great stuff. Almost gives the surface a puffy appearance but leaves a good shine. Sometimes it makes hairline cracks disappear.

chapstick- This gets use on my EDC's because its and EDC itself. Handy 100% of the time. Leaves a slight film appearance but nothing permanent.

If your just starting out in the Khuk care business one trip to the pharmacy will get you covered on everything for less than $5 until you develop a taste of some other products. To each their own and there are many good products and many bad products. Just do your homework and be safe with the milder chemicals till you get more experience.
 
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