Knifemaker Needs your Input

S.Grosvenor

S.Grosvenor

Fulltime KnifeMaker
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
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As a man of experience (older guy) just curious what you would make your ideal bushcraft package (knife with pants) out of ??

Looking for my next batch project thanks for your help.
 
L6 or 15N20 with a nice multiple-mount sheath, IE loops for horizontal and vertical carry. Both steels hold a keen bushcrafting edge better than anything else I've encountered, and are very easy to re-sharpen. Plus, they patina very nicely to prevent rust.
 
sounds good, what length of blade and what thickness>? I would think a durable Micarta /g10 handle or is 'pretty' prefereeed?

Thanks for your input it helps to know what materials i'll need to order. I have w2 (basically 1095 with a little sumthin added in)
 
I never carried too much about what steel a blade is made of as long as the maker takes care with their heat treat. Micarta scales are the best I still think. Blade length - optimal at 4.25 - 4.5" and I prefer a 4.5" handle. Blade thickness 5/32" makes a nice compromise between being thick enough for most demanding tasks while still allowing for a nice edge. Full flat grind with convex edge or full convex grind. Make that flat grand pretty aggressive. Spear point blade is preferred or at least a drop. Handle should be rounded with minimal profiling. A good handful but equally comfortable in any grip. I'm not keen on index finger notches even though they seem popular. Sheath - simple pouch sheath in leather, wet formed and hot waxed for retention and robustness.
 
full size handle so a choil is not needed(or wanted) why do you need to choke up on a small blade

Pretty well everything kgd said but if it was not flat ground 1/8 would be plenty
 
Steel- whatever you get the best performance from.
Grind- flat with convexed edge or full convex.
Scales- hand filling micarta(or other stabilized material) with an oval or egg shaped cross section and left a little rough for texture. Not smooth like bark river's.
Sheath- I live in Oregon so I choose kydex and prefer gromets on both sides of the knife while still keeping the sheath as slim and minimal as possible. Leather holds too much water.
Blade- 3/32-5/32" thick by 2 1/2-3" long. I'm in the minority on length. Most prefer 4-5 inches. I carry a chopper with me so small and thin is my preference. Spear points are good, drop points are good, and even a modified warncliffe is good. I think I prefer drop points the most but that's just aesthetics.
 
Personally, I prefer the feel of wood to micarta, but you have to look after it more.
Patinated is good but my ideal would be a typical british bushcrafter in damasteel with Desert Ironwood handles and multi carry sheath.
 
I am with Shotgun on the size of knife. I prefer about a 3.5" blade and a full size handle. Although I do like a leather sheath.


-Xander
 
Very definitely a leather sheath. There's a lot of variations in the multiple mounting world. I use horizontal straps and removable belt hangers and danglers- some people use screw mounts for various vertical and horizontal carry options- talfuchre, I believe, has done a fair amount with "I" or "H" frame mounts.

I prefer horizontal wraparound straps for reversibility (I'm a leftie) and ability to slide random things I carry into them- like a widgy bar.

Frothe knife- there's different ways to do the handle. You can go fairly short on the 4 1/4 to 4 3/8 side and have a rounded butt so you can palm heel the blade, or go a bit longer in the 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 range for a more secure hammer grip. In any case, I don't like the spine side sticking out all poky past the end of the centerline of the butt. Doesn't make for any comfort when using anything other than a hammer grip.

Broad, relatively thin blades. I'm a big proponent of the 3/32 and 1/8 thick broad blades - they track well, you can choke up in a pinch grip, and they work better for food prep. 90% of what you do is food prep. Say it again- in the end- 90% of what you do is food prep.

Any decently heat treated steel will work- I prefer 15N20 and 10xax steels as you can get the absolute most in terms of a differential temper and fine tuning out of the basic steels, even though some other steels are much harder. I prefer 5160 in thicker blades, a twisted version of a differential quench (diff tempering 5160 is rough as it tends to tweak on air hardening and not do what you wanted it to)

Any handle material that's stable is good to go. I really like micartas as much as I tried to hate them. But some native north american woods are really excellent- bocote, ironwood, osage, and especially walnut. People tend to forget about walnut, but it's really dead solid and reliable stuff once you dry it well and give it a good oil and wax finish. Think gunstocks.

Edge geometry is really really crucial. I won't say any more on the subject than that- because different steels and heat treats and styles work better or best with different geometries- but the one thing that's at least as (and possibly even more) crucial as/than heat treat for the blade itself is edge geometry. Really important.
 
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