Knifemaker Question:Preferred Template material?

Rick Haney Design

Rick Haney Design

Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
518
My question to knifemakers,I've recently worked up some working folder templates using thick stencil plastic(clear).I know some makers use CAD software,Does anybody make working templates the old fashioned way?What is the preferred material?Micarta,G-10?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks,Rick.




Rick
Rick Haney Design
 
Rick,
Most of the makers I know make working templates. Yea it looks cool in cad but there is something about seeing how it will really look in the hand. I just make paper templates. I make sure there is room for everything. Some friends use paper, cardboard or platic. A friend makes working templates out of sheetmetal, blade, backbar and one handle side. The best thing about making a template is that if you want to make another knife that is similar you can just modify the blade or handle and it will work because the pivot is still in the same place.
 
I make my templates out of manila folder stock, then transfer them to 1/16" aluminum sheet.I also do sheath templates in heavy card stock.Dave:)
 
i use high impact plastic. (0.090'')

i get it from Lowes. Dont ever pay full price for it though. you can get the scraps that they throw out for real cheap. i think i got about 32 sq ft of it for $5.00 last trip. (scraps are anything less than a full sheet, and they can get quite big sometimes)

plus, it doesnt shatter or splinter under the bandsaw. some acrylics will but not this stuff (impact resistant and all)

works well. stinks to high heaven when you grind it though :)
 
I guess I really must do it the old fashioned way. I usually trace the blank onto a piece of paper and then back the paper with duct (or is it 'duck') tape, then cut it out with sissors!!! Oh well.

I sometimes trace it on the cardboard of a pepsi or beer carton. Hey - it works.:eek:

Roger
 
Nothing replaces a physical model. I am not a knife designer and I do all of my work in CAD, but any "Aesthetic" work I do requires a physical model.

If you design in CAD, you should use the old architects trick. Print out a scale drawing of your knife, glue the drawing to a piece of cardboard or foamboard (of a decent thickness) and cut along the lines so you have a 2D model of your blade.
 
If you can find a sign shop in your area, you can get scrap aluminum to make templates with. The stuff I have been working with is about 1/8 thick and the sign shop owner was happy to get rid of it.
 
I have a plastics shop in the area and I go 'dumpster diving' for his scrap. It cuts and grinds easly and makes a good looking model. I admit to developing my own style with this material. I copied everything that intrested me from books and magizines then modefied to suit what looked good to me. This plastic, mostly clear, also makes good grinding pratice. You see your mistakes instantly and I make a lot!
Lynn
 
I have found that arborite makes a great pattern materialat least for folders. It is sturdy enough to stand up to tracing but is easy to drill and shape. It is also water resistant. Frank
 
I use plexi-glass scraps! I even drill the rivet and thong holes in the plexi just big enough to fit my automatic center punch through the holes, once traced I just snap the center punch and the holes a exactly where I want them to be.:)
 
the other great thing about using plastic or metal that you actually have to grind is the ability to immediately find out how easy or hard a given knife proto is to profile. some curves/shapes can be a real pain in the ass and you find that out pretty quick ;) allows you to modify your design "on the fly" so to speak.
 
I use the vulacnized spacing material you can get from all the supply catalogs. I have several sheets I used for handles but, switched to the plastic spacing material TKS offers to prevent any swelling that can (very rarely, but can) happen sometimes. Some of the patterns I make repeatedly I have trasferred to aluminum scrap, though.
 
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