knives of Alaska, light hunter problems......

[matlocc]

I tried sharpening a light hunter for a friend at a 21 degree angle. I got a burr and then went through all of the stones but it doesn't feel as sharp as it should. Should this be done as a double bevel? Or is the 1/4 inch thickness of the blade causing my problem? Oh, I am using the wicked edge system.

 

[cbwx34]

I tried sharpening a light hunter for a friend at a 21 degree angle. I got a burr and then went through all of the stones but it doesn't feel as sharp as it should. Should this be done as a double bevel? Or is the 1/4 inch thickness of the blade causing my problem? Oh, I am using the wicked edge system.

How sharp is it now, or what do you mean by "doesn't feel as sharp as it should"?

I doubt a double bevel would make it any sharper, unless you mean thinning behind the edge. It's probably the thickness that's making it seem 'not as sharp' as other knives you've done... if that's what you're comparing it to.

 

[matlocc]

I am very new to the wicked edge system and it does not have that sharp edge feel when using your finger, also the cutting is more of a push cut then a slice. This is a skinning knife so I think I may need to drop back a few grits to give it some teeth. any suggestions?

 

[cbwx34]

I am very new to the wicked edge system and it does not have that sharp edge feel when using your finger, also the cutting is more of a push cut then a slice. This is a skinning knife so I think I may need to drop back a few grits to give it some teeth. any suggestions?

Ah, that helps. You're on the right track, and indeed a slight microbevel can help... Clay has posted in the W.E. forum that he'll raise the angle 3-4 deg. (I think), and make a couple of light, alternating, edge-leading strokes with the 600g stone... just enough to add a 'bite' back into the edge.

Edit to add: Here's the actual link. (He uses the 200g stone... not sure you have to go that aggressive... I'd try around 600g 1st, and see how it performs).

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I tried sharpening a light hunter for a friend at a 21 degree angle. I got a burr and then went through all of the stones but it doesn't feel as sharp as it should. Should this be done as a double bevel? Or is the 1/4 inch thickness of the blade causing my problem? Oh, I am using the wicked edge system.

Something to consider, depending on what 'sharp' means to you or your friend:

Assuming the 21° angle is per side, meaning 42° inclusive, that relatively wide angle PLUS the thick blade geometry behind it could both be issues. If considering adding a microbevel, the apex angle will be even wider. For a skinning knife, if it's not going to be used for heavy chopping tasks (bone, etc), you might consider something narrower. It's a preference thing, but it could make a pretty big difference in how it ultimately performs for the task.


David

 

[matlocc]

Thanks, obsessed with edges. I didn't even think about inclusive angle. when I read that KOA knives were 22-25 (on the website) I was thinking per side or is this total? (11-12.5) each side individually? that seems thin for the blade thickness.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks, obsessed with edges. I didn't even think about inclusive angle. when I read that KOA knives were 22-25 (on the website) I was thinking per side or is this total? (11-12.5) each side individually? that seems thin for the blade thickness.

Found this on their site:

"Most of our knives are sharpened at an angle between 18° - 20°. Our hatchet and cleavers are sharpened at an angle between 22° - 25°."

The angles quoted for the hatchet and cleavers (i.e., chopping tools) are telling. I'd bet those are per-side numbers, as an inclusive angle at such values is extremely thin for such work. It's pretty typical of a lot of makers to go conservatively thick with their factory edges, though most decent knives these days would hold up pretty well at much lower angles. For a knife made for slicing tasks, such as a skinning knife, I wouldn't worry at all about going down to 30° inclusive (15° per side), or maybe a bit lower, down to 25° inclusive (12.5° per side) or so. Oftentimes, a starting point at 30° inclusive is pretty safe. If the edge wears a little more than is desired at that angle, then a microbevel applied to the 30° back bevel may be useful. I personally wouldn't want to go beyond 40° (including the microbevel) at all.


David

 

[cbwx34]

Not sure it's a typical skinner...

The Light Hunter Mini Skinner/Cleaver is designed especially for hunters who need a powerful blade to cut through medium-size bones and perform heavy duty skinning tasks. Deer, sheep and mountain goat hunters, who hunt on extended, strenuous, high altitude expeditions, will find it to be an excellent tool that keeps the equipment weight to a minimum, yet still has enough heft to do field-dressing jobs easily and efficiently. Each Light Hunter is hand made from the same incredibly tough, fully annealed, double-drawn and cryogenically-treated D-2 tool steel as our award-winning Brown Bear. The blade is a full 1/4" thick, just like the big Brown Bear; however, it is 3" shorter. We also added a large capacity gut-hook, so the thic

The 'microbevel' I referred to earlier is just enough to modify the edge finish... not really enough to set a new bevel, if that makes sense.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Sort of a curious-looking knife. The overall profile is obviously a skinner, but the description of it for 'chopping medium-size bones' seems a bit of a fatigue-inducing stretch for a 3-1/2" blade, a short handle and a thick 44°-50° inclusive edge, depending on what 'medium size bones' means(?). Makes my hands & wrists hurt just thinking about trying to chop bones with it. And even light edge wear from bone-chopping will bring all other cutting to a halt at such wide edge geometry. I suppose it'll depend on what the owner plans to use it for. If the priority is skinning, go thinner at the edge; if for chopping, I'd still not go any wider than 40° at the apex. D2 steel at 59-61 HRC should handle it easily.

David

 

[matlocc]

I had a hard time getting the 20 degrees per side, I can't really see a 15 degree angle, it would remove a lot of metal. He seemed pretty happy with it, I will let him make the decision.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I had a hard time getting the 20 degrees per side, I can't really see a 15 degree angle, it would remove a lot of metal. He seemed pretty happy with it, I will let him make the decision.

That's a lot of steel to take off all at once, seeing how thick that blade is starting out. Might be better done a little at a time, over a span of several resharpenings, if that eventually turns out to be the goal.


David

 

[samuraistuart]

Those knives have a LOT of meat at the edge. I HATE sharpening those things. Have two friends who each have a set, it's been a while, thank goodness. D2, I think, too.