Well, since you don't want to use a saw...
The Gerber axe blade was likely too soft for bone. Most hatchets are meant specifically for wood and will ding/roll/chip when used on something harder. This is actually one of the few chopping chores where a well made knife will outperform most hatchets.
Knives of Alaska makes good blades but not for what you're wanting. D2 is a very wear resistant steel but fragile under impact. That cleaver would do well in skinning and butchering the meat. What you would want is something relatively thick edged in a tough steel like S3V, L6, 5160 or INFI. For those who undoubtedly are going to shower me with wisdom that no knife can survive this work, take a look at this review of a Bill Siegle
camp knife.
A good option that's in the relative price range of KOA is Swamp Rat, either of their big knives or the Paul's Ratchet--a hatchet that I describe as an Ulu with an extended handle. Their steel is very tough, and the edges are robust enough to better survive what you're talking about. Another option would be the Becker Brute, which again has a sturdy enough edge to survive this kind of heavy shock. Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works is another thought. Ted makes a variety of large knives and also and incredibly cool blade called the
cleaver
Siegle (as mentioned), Busse, Fehrman are all excellent options for a hard use knife. They're more expensive, but you'll find legions of people on each who'll tell you it's well worth it. Bob Hankins makes some tough bowies that many swear by as wel, though he (and Bill Siegle too, for that matter) tend to do thinner/sharper edges, so it'd be worth telling them what you're intending the knife for.
I've by NO MEANS covered all of your options, but there are a few. If you do nothing but chop bones, you're going to have to deal with some amount of chipping and rolling--eventually the edges will weaken under such use. That's what we have sharpeners for, however.
