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Knives with multiple grinds

C

cybrok

Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Messages
4,741
Hi

I've been thinking recently about a knife I'd like to have. A knife that would be big, around 9" of blade, full tang.

The best, to me, would be full convex grind, but with a few inches scandi at the bottom. Just imagine something like a serrated RTAK, but instead of the serrations, it's a thin scandi grind for precision work.

RTAK-SERRATED.jpg


Are there many knives that have different grinds depending of where you are on the blade?

I know of some Mora:

DSC00903.jpg


And the Tracker:

250.jpg



If it doesn't exist, guess I'll have to refine the design and get one custom made.
 
:thumbup: Pitdog started a thread about crazy knife designs a few months ago. One of my contributions was a belt knife with a convex blade that had a few inches of scandi grind towards the bottom.

My thinking was that I often use the portion of a scandi nearest the handle to make fuzz sticks and for many other woodworking tasks (notch cutting, basic whittling, etc.), but that I like the durability of a convex or flat grind for chopping, batoning, and foot prep. Combining both in the same knife would give you an interesting all-around camp knife. I can see where it might have limitations, but I'm still itching to try it out in practice.

All the best,

- Mike
 
Kiku knives have multiple grinds, the one I had was hollow ground next to the handle, convex near the tip and a smooth transition between the grinds. very cool.
 
grind the serrations on saber ground knife?

I am a fan of tools dedicated for the job, so if you need a short scandi blade, carry one.
 
Actually the M2K has only one grind,just one part of it is wider,and the grind of the tip is narrower,because the tip is really thin :)
 
I've been setting up my machetes like that for years. It is a very useful mod IMO but you do have to be careful when chopping not to impact the scandi portion if you can help it. A machete has a softer heat treat than a Leuku and you can roll the edge if you're not careful.

I've thought about modifying my BK-7 to have a scandi grind at the base. I just don't have the tools to make it look professional. I do the mods on a $6 machete with a file mainly and I don't want to do that to the BK-7.

The scandi grind at the base of a machete allows much greater control over the angle at which the cut can be made. It allows you to make precise cuts inside of notches and tight spaces. You can also thin the edge at the base and convex as normal so the blade will cut at a lower angle.

Machete Modifications Tutorial

This is the process I do on all my new machetes.

Mac
 
Bolt-action bultema said:
grind the serrations on saber ground knife?

I am a fan of tools dedicated for the job, so if you need a short scandi blade, carry one.
Click to expand...

The bottom four or five inches on a machete edge stays sharp forever mainly because it is rarely used when chopping. Because it stays sharp that portion of the edge gets used all the time for non chopping knife tasks. Optimizing the edge there for those tasks just makes the machete more useful.

I believe you should learn the techniques needed to big blade tasks with your small knife and small knife tasks with your machete. Mac
 
Bolt-action bultema said:
I am a fan of tools dedicated for the job, so if you need a short scandi blade, carry one.
Click to expand...

The point is to reduce the number of items I carry, so by the same time the weight I carry.


Pict, I saw your machete modification, and I have to admit it's what rang the bell for me. It would be similar, but with a big knife instead of a machete, because I'm in the boreal forest and not in the jungle ;)
 
You should try the 12 inch Ontario. Boreal forest in the winter is axe country but in the summer I have found a machete comes in handy there too. I'd be interested to see anything you come up with. Mac
 
Hardly Pic! If you are playing with the grinds, just grind it to season :) Make a very hefty TOPS-like grind on the later portion and avoid Hemlock! Well, thats my two cents anyway.
 
Actually Mr. Joe. That sounds like it could be an interesting test. More news at 11.
 
remember that some knives have multiple grinds without it being visually obvous at first- many scandinavian knives will have a variable angle grind as you go through the blade, often more obtsuse near the tip, more acute in the belly and front of the blade, and more obsutre again near the handle.

One way to work on this that would be fairly easy would be to 'deepen' one side of a convex or scandi grind for a 3 inch or so section near the handle. this would raise the edge a bit (giving you a defined section of new grind) as well as give a more chisel-grind like cutting geometry.

I may have to make an example now, huh.
 
Take a longer blade Scandi and just convex the forward part of the blade. I have done this with a few of the 127 Mora's.
 
I kinda did this with my Becker 7. The first 3-4 inches near the handle is much thinner and has a more acute grind and I left the front part more obtuse for chopping purposes. Works pretty well.
 
Sorry, Mora 223 or 173. I have way to many Mora's to keep them straight in my mind.:D
 
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