I will be in Peru and Chile for about 4 months and am considering using a kukri for light construction of temporary shelters, and related tasks. I do not imagine that I will have to place incredible strains on the knife but it really does have to stand up to doing all the jobs intended for it as well as a few I can't predict. Some advice on design and size would be appreciated. I do not need it for a martial weapon. Also, although i realise that this forum revolves around HI any comments about other comapnies relative strengths and weaknesses would help me out. The knife will be used in environments ranging from high mountain to jungle, so if anyone has experience in using one in these areas please let me know what you think. Thanks.
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Kukri Design
- Thread starter Joe99
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20 million Nepalis have experience ranging from 300 feet above sea level to about 6 miles. They have been using khukuris for centuries in these various altitudes and in conditions ranging from the tropical jungles of the Terai to the barren slopes of the Himalayas. I don't think you'll have a problem.
Steven has suggested a 15 inch AK which I'll second.
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Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Steven has suggested a 15 inch AK which I'll second.
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Along with Steven's and Uncle Bill's recommendations, I would add waterproofing your scabbard(as per recommendations in an earlier thread in this forum - try waterproofing as your search word), drilling a couple holes in the bottom of the scabbard to let any water out, one Marine TuffCloth for wipedowns and a small DMT Stone to touch up the khukuri in the field.
Harry
Harry
Cliff Stamp
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Something to consider would be an 18" WWII like the blem currently for sale. The handle will be slightly longer than on the 15" AK which could be significant. The WWII also in general out cuts the AK model (see Will Kwans olders posts for a discussion of this in detail). The AK has several advantages though, mainly strength / durability and resistance to binding.
One other thing, if the vegetation is really soft and or leafy, you might not want something as thick as a WWII let alone an AK. There are some slimmer models, something like a utility based version of the 18" century or a slim Sirupati (Bill has offered some really nice light ones lately) would be very nice for light chopping. If there is little resistance to the blade, you want it to be very light with a slim cross section.
-Cliff
One other thing, if the vegetation is really soft and or leafy, you might not want something as thick as a WWII let alone an AK. There are some slimmer models, something like a utility based version of the 18" century or a slim Sirupati (Bill has offered some really nice light ones lately) would be very nice for light chopping. If there is little resistance to the blade, you want it to be very light with a slim cross section.
-Cliff
I'll definately second what Cliff said, I've recently received a 20" Sirupati Villager. I've now used a WWII, a 20" General Utility (2.25 lbs, kinda' thick) and the 20" Sirupati. For light to medium chopping/clearing, the Sirupati wins hands down. I recently used it for about 1 1/2 hours doing really small (1/4") to medium (2-3") brush clearing. In a word, awesome! I wasn't sure how it would handle the thicker stuff, but it did great, and the light weight resulted in MUCH LESS muscle fatigue. It looks to me like you might need to take a pair of Khuks! Possibly the 15" AK mentioned for heavier chopping, and splitting, and a Sirupati or other thin, light blade for light and medium brush. Good luck, you can't have too many of these critters! Rob
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'He's losin' it... (Words spoken about me by a visitor seeing me with my Khuk!)
Lucky for them I'm not...
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'He's losin' it... (Words spoken about me by a visitor seeing me with my Khuk!)
Lucky for them I'm not...
Thanks for the response. For the purposes in mind, I won't be using the kukri as a machete ( we will carry 2 among four of us) and for the most part, the paths are well defined. I am trying to use the kukri as a replacement for carrying both a MD ATAK2 and an Estwing hatchet.
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Joe, the AK is probably the best bet for you.
Much thanks for good advice, boys.
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Much thanks for good advice, boys.
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Cliff Stamp
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With that clarification I would agree with Bill, as a hatchet replacement the AK is the way to go with the size (15, 18, 20+) depending on your build.
-Cliff
-Cliff
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If weight is a consideration get the 15 inch.
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Brian Jones
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Joe,
I'll agree with the 15" AK (or any 15" as the way to go if you'll be carrying the knife long term on your person in a wilderness, or primitive environment).
Wetness Issues:
If you use the blade constantly and wipe it down with a rag and apply Marine Tuff-cloth, it'll do well for you in both the Jungle and Mountain environments. Heck, even if it rusts, it's so thick it'll take a lot longer than 4 months to weaken if it's being used. The edge won't rust if used constantly and honed and resharpened. The mountains of Chile are rainforest and therefore wet, much like the Olympic Range in Washington State if you've ever been there. So you'll be wet a lot either way!
A bone-handled model will serve you better if travelling between a humid and high altitude environment, due to wood expansion and contraction from temperature and humidity changes.
The wooden sheath/scabbard wrapped in leather will need a little more caretaking, but it's easy. Linseed oil, rendered animal fats, or vegetable oils poured into it, then rolling the sheath around to spread it evenly inside and allowed to soak into the wood will keep it conditioned and wick water from the blade a little better. Oil on the outside of the sheath is a good idea too, and candlewax can be applied in certain parts (like the scabbrd hole) to work with the oils to keep the leather from pulling out. When the leather gets wet, it can stretch easily, and when it dries again, it can pull out from shrinkage. Also, drill small holes in the bottom of the scabbard to let water drain out. The thread on waterproofing is mentioned above -- there are two threads on it I think...I mentioned some natural methods there as well for waterproofing/protection... Sno-Seal on the outside might be okay if you have the inside oiled and good drainage holes on the bottom. If no drainage, you'll keep as much water in from Sno-Seal as out. Result: one wet knife!
Take a plastic trash bag along with you and wrap the whole knife and scabbard in it when not in use, or when crossing water (make sure you've got it dry inside and out first). Or just pop it over the whole knife and scabbard while on your waist and tie it down while walking.
Uses in the Wilderness for Khukuris And Other Stuff
The 15" Khukuri also makes a fantastic draw knife for scraping and shaping wood into useable forms. Hammering anything with the back of the blade is easy (put a piece of wood to protect the blade -- why damage of work of art?
), and splitting logs and other wood is a breeze -- you'll have shelters and racks and all sorts of stuff up and running in no time!
The Karda, or small knife, included with the Khukuri, will perform outstandingly for smaller whittling tasks for shelter construction and other wilderness tasks, and cooking. The Chakma, also included, in addition to being a great blade burnisher, also makes a great hide scraper and separator when cleaning and tanning. And a helluva butter knife! You can stir your tea with it, too...
Of course , this all depends on the type of shelters and work you'll be doing, and your living conditions...can you elaborate on the types of work and living conditions you'll be in, and length of time? In other words -- daily excursions from a house into the wilds, or extended campouts, etc...
I've found in heavy brush when I need to travel light, the size of a 15" Khukuri as opposed to larger models works best -- it's less bulky on your person, and less heavy. I let it ride on my right hind/side on my belt, ( I'm right-handed) for same side draw in those conditions -- it gets caught up less when {edit} on the hip (end edit)than when up on your back, and is in easy reach for bushwhacking. Plus, the 15" is usually less tiring to use than a 20" incher...
Be certain your chopping technique is solid and keep your legs out of the way and body out of the way, whether bushwhacking or chopping sticks downward! These knives are heavy for their size and will go through things suprisingly well -- better than a knife or hatchet, and they'll continue through your leg -- so off to the side as you chop...or "bobbitization" may result
Practice with it before you go into the bush...and rest beforeyou get too tired, or dangerous carelessness can result.
Hope this has helped, and have fun on your journey! Let Bill and the rest of us know how it goes -- BTW, I use HI Khukuris exclusively -- not that the others aren't good, too, but I like them the best and Bill is the most genuine person I've had the pleasure of knowing and dealing with in a long-time.
Peace,
Brian Jones
Co-Moderator
Wilderness & Survival Skills Forum
------------------
Suburbia: Where they tear out the trees, then name streets after them.
[This message has been edited by Brian Jones (edited 01-07-2000).]
[This message has been edited by Brian Jones (edited 01-07-2000).]
I'll agree with the 15" AK (or any 15" as the way to go if you'll be carrying the knife long term on your person in a wilderness, or primitive environment).
Wetness Issues:
If you use the blade constantly and wipe it down with a rag and apply Marine Tuff-cloth, it'll do well for you in both the Jungle and Mountain environments. Heck, even if it rusts, it's so thick it'll take a lot longer than 4 months to weaken if it's being used. The edge won't rust if used constantly and honed and resharpened. The mountains of Chile are rainforest and therefore wet, much like the Olympic Range in Washington State if you've ever been there. So you'll be wet a lot either way!
A bone-handled model will serve you better if travelling between a humid and high altitude environment, due to wood expansion and contraction from temperature and humidity changes.
The wooden sheath/scabbard wrapped in leather will need a little more caretaking, but it's easy. Linseed oil, rendered animal fats, or vegetable oils poured into it, then rolling the sheath around to spread it evenly inside and allowed to soak into the wood will keep it conditioned and wick water from the blade a little better. Oil on the outside of the sheath is a good idea too, and candlewax can be applied in certain parts (like the scabbrd hole) to work with the oils to keep the leather from pulling out. When the leather gets wet, it can stretch easily, and when it dries again, it can pull out from shrinkage. Also, drill small holes in the bottom of the scabbard to let water drain out. The thread on waterproofing is mentioned above -- there are two threads on it I think...I mentioned some natural methods there as well for waterproofing/protection... Sno-Seal on the outside might be okay if you have the inside oiled and good drainage holes on the bottom. If no drainage, you'll keep as much water in from Sno-Seal as out. Result: one wet knife!
Take a plastic trash bag along with you and wrap the whole knife and scabbard in it when not in use, or when crossing water (make sure you've got it dry inside and out first). Or just pop it over the whole knife and scabbard while on your waist and tie it down while walking.
Uses in the Wilderness for Khukuris And Other Stuff
The 15" Khukuri also makes a fantastic draw knife for scraping and shaping wood into useable forms. Hammering anything with the back of the blade is easy (put a piece of wood to protect the blade -- why damage of work of art?
The Karda, or small knife, included with the Khukuri, will perform outstandingly for smaller whittling tasks for shelter construction and other wilderness tasks, and cooking. The Chakma, also included, in addition to being a great blade burnisher, also makes a great hide scraper and separator when cleaning and tanning. And a helluva butter knife! You can stir your tea with it, too...
Of course , this all depends on the type of shelters and work you'll be doing, and your living conditions...can you elaborate on the types of work and living conditions you'll be in, and length of time? In other words -- daily excursions from a house into the wilds, or extended campouts, etc...
I've found in heavy brush when I need to travel light, the size of a 15" Khukuri as opposed to larger models works best -- it's less bulky on your person, and less heavy. I let it ride on my right hind/side on my belt, ( I'm right-handed) for same side draw in those conditions -- it gets caught up less when {edit} on the hip (end edit)than when up on your back, and is in easy reach for bushwhacking. Plus, the 15" is usually less tiring to use than a 20" incher...
Be certain your chopping technique is solid and keep your legs out of the way and body out of the way, whether bushwhacking or chopping sticks downward! These knives are heavy for their size and will go through things suprisingly well -- better than a knife or hatchet, and they'll continue through your leg -- so off to the side as you chop...or "bobbitization" may result
Practice with it before you go into the bush...and rest beforeyou get too tired, or dangerous carelessness can result.
Hope this has helped, and have fun on your journey! Let Bill and the rest of us know how it goes -- BTW, I use HI Khukuris exclusively -- not that the others aren't good, too, but I like them the best and Bill is the most genuine person I've had the pleasure of knowing and dealing with in a long-time.
Peace,
Brian Jones
Co-Moderator
Wilderness & Survival Skills Forum
------------------
Suburbia: Where they tear out the trees, then name streets after them.
[This message has been edited by Brian Jones (edited 01-07-2000).]
[This message has been edited by Brian Jones (edited 01-07-2000).]
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Brian Jones
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My pleasure, Unlce!
Joe, one more thing: attach a good lanyard of 550 paracord (it's strong) to the handle. If you drop your khukuri in pirhana, snake, and crocodile infested jungle waters, you won't want to be reaching in there to get it. A good lanyard will keep that from happening.
Peace,
Brian.
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Suburbia: Where they tear out the trees, then name streets after them.
Joe, one more thing: attach a good lanyard of 550 paracord (it's strong) to the handle. If you drop your khukuri in pirhana, snake, and crocodile infested jungle waters, you won't want to be reaching in there to get it. A good lanyard will keep that from happening.
Peace,
Brian.
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Suburbia: Where they tear out the trees, then name streets after them.
Pirhana's, snakes, crocodiles? The brochure said "Relaxing environment with beautiful views and unlimited harmony with nature" I'd better read the fine print.
Actually, we will be doing water and soil sampling for a bacteriological assay. The temporary shelters will be simple supports for netting and tarps. Thanks for the in-depth advice. The next question was going to be about the handles, but you beat me to the punch. Is wood better under most normal circumstances? Humidity will not fluctuate (I am not going to be running from jungle up the mountain and back again) - it will be more of a gradual change.
Actually, we will be doing water and soil sampling for a bacteriological assay. The temporary shelters will be simple supports for netting and tarps. Thanks for the in-depth advice. The next question was going to be about the handles, but you beat me to the punch. Is wood better under most normal circumstances? Humidity will not fluctuate (I am not going to be running from jungle up the mountain and back again) - it will be more of a gradual change.
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Brian Jones
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LOL re: relaxing environment -- don't worry, any place can be relaxing -- it's all in your attitude!
Actually, just look in the water before you reach, that's all...<grin>
Wood requires more maintenance under any conditions. And, as Uncle Bill said, horn is waterproof, and easily repairable and reinforced using hide and hoof glues or pine pitch (both of these work great on wood, too). You can use the epoxy that the original handle came with by boiling it in water for a bit until it becomes reworkable, too.
If using a wooden handle, then, before going, boil some linseed oil and rub it on the wood handle, and do it periodically, like before leaving the more humid environments to go up into more arid areas. Wood swells when wet or even humid, and is more flexible when in humid areas, and will accept oils and drive out the water. Then, when the wood is drying out, the oils keep it from cracking as it contracts again. Remember that a handle undergoes all kinds of stresses during use -- especially chopping.
That said, if you are willing to do the little bit extra maintenance (easy while enjoying the relaxation of a good campfire), then a wood handle will still serve you very, very well.
You can always wrap it with sinew at the top and bottom (or all the way around from top to bottom) to reinforce the wood, like you would do a on a bow for a bow and arrow set. Sinew can be hammered down and separated into thread size (but very strong) fibers so you don't change the handle profile much at all. It's one of the strongest natural fibers out there.
The kraton handles on some mass-produced commercial "khukuri" brands are ok, except they don't handle shock as well, and the patterning on them can wear and tear easily, plus really beat on your hand...I just don't like them all that much. You can't improvise and reinforce them as easily in the wilds...
By the way, you can dig to China with a Khukuri, too!! The wide profile of the blade makes for an excellent digging tool. I coated the blade edge of my khukuri with a little pine pitch to protect it and dug holes for a shelter that were a couple feet deep each. I then gently melted the pitch off afterward, then wiped and burnished with the chakma, and the blade wasn't dulled at all.
The cho (notch, which only exists on real Nepalese Khukuris, not American knock-offs) can be used to bend wire or work bark and small sticks into kindling and tinder -- it works outstandingly for that, too. And Uncle Bill says it's easy to use the cho for opening cans of Heinekin even when you've had too many!
I also use the chakma with a magnesium fire starter or metal match to spark a fire, since there's no blade on it to dull...
Anyway, you can maybe see how versatile the HI Khukuris are in the wilds...
Best,
Brian.
------------------
Suburbia: Where they tear out the trees, then name streets after them.
Wood requires more maintenance under any conditions. And, as Uncle Bill said, horn is waterproof, and easily repairable and reinforced using hide and hoof glues or pine pitch (both of these work great on wood, too). You can use the epoxy that the original handle came with by boiling it in water for a bit until it becomes reworkable, too.
If using a wooden handle, then, before going, boil some linseed oil and rub it on the wood handle, and do it periodically, like before leaving the more humid environments to go up into more arid areas. Wood swells when wet or even humid, and is more flexible when in humid areas, and will accept oils and drive out the water. Then, when the wood is drying out, the oils keep it from cracking as it contracts again. Remember that a handle undergoes all kinds of stresses during use -- especially chopping.
That said, if you are willing to do the little bit extra maintenance (easy while enjoying the relaxation of a good campfire), then a wood handle will still serve you very, very well.
You can always wrap it with sinew at the top and bottom (or all the way around from top to bottom) to reinforce the wood, like you would do a on a bow for a bow and arrow set. Sinew can be hammered down and separated into thread size (but very strong) fibers so you don't change the handle profile much at all. It's one of the strongest natural fibers out there.
The kraton handles on some mass-produced commercial "khukuri" brands are ok, except they don't handle shock as well, and the patterning on them can wear and tear easily, plus really beat on your hand...I just don't like them all that much. You can't improvise and reinforce them as easily in the wilds...
By the way, you can dig to China with a Khukuri, too!! The wide profile of the blade makes for an excellent digging tool. I coated the blade edge of my khukuri with a little pine pitch to protect it and dug holes for a shelter that were a couple feet deep each. I then gently melted the pitch off afterward, then wiped and burnished with the chakma, and the blade wasn't dulled at all.
The cho (notch, which only exists on real Nepalese Khukuris, not American knock-offs) can be used to bend wire or work bark and small sticks into kindling and tinder -- it works outstandingly for that, too. And Uncle Bill says it's easy to use the cho for opening cans of Heinekin even when you've had too many!
I also use the chakma with a magnesium fire starter or metal match to spark a fire, since there's no blade on it to dull...
Anyway, you can maybe see how versatile the HI Khukuris are in the wilds...
Best,
Brian.
------------------
Suburbia: Where they tear out the trees, then name streets after them.
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Thanks for another great post, Brian!
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
- Joined
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I may get some flak from the experts but if I really needed a lanyard I'd drill a hole thru the handle and thread a leather thong thru it.
------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
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Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ