Kukri Handle...

[fedaykincmndr]

I purchased an authentic kukri from Nepal and from a reputable manufacturer who shall remain nameless for the sake of honour. As excited as I was, on the first outing (overnight, 5mi hike, 800ft climbs) the handle came completely off (see below). So, I decided to attempt to replace the handle as the blade was wonderful. Unfortunately, I'm at an impasse; I used an old hickory ax handle and the shape was perfect and other than a little splitting (remedied by rawhide and JB Weld), all was well. Upon some moderate chopping, the same thing happened ( I used JB Weld to secure the handle onto the tang). Attached below is tang (only about half an inch was cut off, and I really wish I hadn't done that), and I would like some opinions on what can be done. I really love this knife and I want it to work well, I'm just out of ideas. Thanks in advance, and yes I have contacted the seller and they said that because of the handmade nature, these things happen but I can get a discount the next time I order. I don't have the money to order another, and nor do I want to. Thanks again.

Modified

Post Hike

 

[Steely_Gunz]

I'm going to pop this one over from the HI board to the Cantina where we talk about non-HI stuff
Welcome to the board. Also, from what part of Indiana do you hail?

 

[Gorog]

You could try some really high strength epoxies, I hear they work well with wood, but, I too have honor, and cannot pretend to be an expert in knife maintenance. Gorilla epoxy, Sumo Glue, and some products from Garrett Wade under Woodworking might fit the bill, but again, I'm just a part time woodworker saying that hickory plus epoxy is difficult to beat. If that fails you, reinforce it with a very high strength tape like Gorilla tape (I would not bet my life on its holding abilities, but some people have, and lived to tell the tale!) and if THAT fails, and you absolutely must have a shock absorbing, blister fighting handle, if only for a short time, there is a modified silicone product that cures into a solid, but gives-to-your-hands substance called Sugru, that you could buy several bags of, encase the handle with, and have a shock absorbent, completely customized and ergonomic handle that would hold through chopping, I think...I've never tried Sugru, but it is very popular, apparently, for home modifications, or hacking life in general. IF THAT FAILS... try hacking the entire kukri, roughing up the tang with some sandpaper, and experiment with some ultra strength shock resistant adhesives that I don't know about. Explore some on Google, and you might find a better answer already waiting for you. Hope I have been of some assistance to you. Peace from the far away land of a Del-A-WHERE?
David

 

[fedaykincmndr]

South Eastern; Charlestown.

Thanks, Gorog, that is very helpful; would you have any ideas for getting the tang in handle? It's kind of a pain; I've been using those bits that look like a chisel and drill a large hole. I've been using then in progressive succession due to the irregular shape of the tang.

 

[Steve Tall]

The thread below shows how to put on this type of handle, with the end of the tang peened over the butt plate to hold it on (in addition to epoxy):
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/798277-My-ASTK-Sirupate-Heavy-pix

Another method is to use two blocks of wood that are epoxied together after you carve out a groove for the tang in one off the blocks. The blocks can be roughly shaped before gluing, and after the blocks are glued around the tang you can finish shaping it to fit your hand. This can be useful for curved tangs that are otherwise hard to drill a hole for. With this method, if the tang is too short to peen, you can first glue the tang into the half with the groove, and then drill a hole through the tang and the block for a "pin" (you can use a nail) to give extra holding strength. Once the hole is drilled you can glue on the other half, continue the hole through the other half, and epoxy the "pin" (cut to size) into the hole once the handle is shaped to your liking.

I think there are some posts in the archives that show how to do this, with photos to explain it better, but I didn't find any.

 

[Gorog]

To tell the truth, man, as I usually do whether it is to my advantage (or detriment), I have never used a kukri in my life, much less had the privelege to take one apart. But Steves suggestions are just fine, and exactly what I would recommend, especially the 'cut the handle in two and fit the tang into the handle' bit. Shirasayas have been made that way for (I'm guessing based on experience with the insanely long history the Japanese, Chinese, Koreans, and such) for centuries. Now that I see your kukri though, I must admit that tang is very small, thin, and oddly shaped, even for a rat-tail tang, which could be the problem you are having to begin with. Does anyone else think that tang looks like it needs to be thicker in order to 'grip' the wood properly, or is it just me? Anyway, correct me if I am wrong, you are using the drill bits progressively, and using drill bits that are used by carpenters to safely drill large holes, the ones with a pilot spike and large cutting 'wings' as I call it, otherwise known as the spade bit? Good idea, I commend your acuity and willingness to get things done faster, though it is good you are using a solid hardwood like hickory, otherwise, the integrity of the wood might be an issue when using a spade...or at least that is what I think.... More power to you, dude, DIY'ing and modding things like a boss, go get that khukuri and make that stubborn tang darn well fit into that handle! I'm just joking around, heed Steve's words, and you'll have a whole new chopper on your hands that will hopefully work out well for you. Remember, the internet can be your friend, your enemy, or in between, depends on what you make of it, usually. Seize the internet, and MAKE it your friend, use the resources at hand, look up special ways to search for the answers you seek, the questions that must be answered, and you will find the way! All corniness aside, let me know if you need any more help, I'll try and be around more often than yesterday. Okay? Peace everyone.
David

 

[Ryan M]

If the steel at the tip of the tang is soft enough, you might be able to thread it, then Loctite on a nut to keep the handle on. You'd need to drill a corresponding recess in the butt of the handle, of course, unless you have super tiny hands.

Seems like the best bet to me, since you appear to have also shortened the tang too much for a traditional peened buttcap.

And did you really thoroughly degrease the crap out of the entire thing before epoxying? JB Weld shouldn't have let go like that. Looks like it was oily, unless you sanded off all the JB before taking the top photo.