Kukuuri Heavan

K

Kevin the grey

Joined
Aug 26, 2005
Messages
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Wow less than a week from door to door . Beautiful, well made, doesn,t do it justice . I,ve already found out there is a lot more to it than meets the eye as well . This is the first knife that I have had to measure my skill with it instead of whether a new knife suits my needs .Took it easy today . I started with lopping off a few small branches . I was surprised to be surprised . I was expecting performance , I did not expect the ease with which it cuts . I then took down a small hardwood tree 1 and 3/4 inches diameter . Again it is my skill level that dictatres the performance level of the knife . I have never had so much to learn from a knife before .
I have one question regarding follow through . How do you stop the momentum of the knife after it cuts through its work ? I realise only using enough force to do the work will help a lot . I just thought there might be a technique to slow the blade without directly opposing its force .

BTW . All the wood will be used to improve my woodland skills . I am making a small shelter for a hunting camp and I already have a good start .
 
Always be aware of the possible directions the blade can take. Make sure that all of your body parts are out of the way...a glancing blow and a kick out can really ruin your day/year. As you've noticed these are not toys.
If possible make use a stump or a log to work against. Start with a light easy chop and work your way up in power but always maintain control.
 
Cut away from yourself, left to right instead of right to left. Somewhat awkward at first but the safest way when using a large knife on small work.
 
Cut away from yourself, left to right instead of right to left. Somewhat awkward at first but the safest way when using a large knife on small work.

I guess that is reversed for a lefty ? If so you are right it would feel awkward .I do see that it would keep the knife to the outside of your body and legs

There is another question concerning technique and that is what to do with the energy stored in the knife after the cut . If the knife cuts threough the work I find it a strain to stop or slow down the knife . I,m just wondering if there is a technique to absorb or redirect the energy ? Maybe I should be keeping my elbow bent more ?
 
Well, that's part of why it's easier to use a stump or something to work on.i.e. chopping. It gives a safe place for the kukri to go into if it cleanly passes through whatever you're working on. But, if you must "hold" what you're working on, then I find it easier to sit down, hold whatever close to my body, with the area I'm working on about 3/4 of an arm length away from me. That way, when the kukri passes through, everything stops when my arm reaches full extention. Also, it's a lot easier as the kuks get smaller and lighter. That's part of why so many of us, own quite a few kuks. i.e. you wouldn't really want to use a Ganga Ram Special to try to shape the end of a spear or anything, and likewise, you probably wouldn't want to use the pen knife or Foxy Folly to take down a tree. You could, but you probably wouldn't want to.


mike
 
Kevin,
With time and careful swinging the khuk will teach you how to use it. The best adivice i've heard is to cut away from yourself, as Yvsa has mentioned. Also, just let the blade do the work. Don't force it. Don't go hard, but always expect that the blade will magically turn into a light sabre and go through what you are chopping in one stroke. A khuk can become a friend. it will speak to you, teach you things from the ages. However, like any friend it commands respect. You sound well on your way to understanding. Just go slow, aim carefully, and count your fingers and toes when you are done;)

Jake
 
If you stick with backhanded swings and keep them above your waist, it's almost impossible to hit yourself. (Note that I say "almost," because I managed to do it once - got my left hand all the way behind my back. I'm still not sure how I did that.) It also tends to put limits on what you can do but the safety factor is worth it when starting out.

Be very careful when holding the work with one hand and swinging with the other. One bounce and Murphy's Law can kick in. Ask me how I got my extra knuckle. (And how sharp Nasty's GRS is.) One odd bounce, one sharp khuk, one deep cut - fortunately, the bone was there to stop it. ;)

I can't stress enough that hard swings aren't required. Lighter swings throw almost as many chips, tire you less, and give you more control. It took me a while to figure this last one out.
 
I guess I should have been more specific about the type of work . As in taking down a small tree we sometimes cannot have a chopping block or work surface to absorb the force of the blow . I have been taking my time as you guys suggested . What I am asking might be better understood by a martial artist as they are used to redirecting energy . I am sure with patience and experience I will come to understand what the Kukuuri needs of me as I learn what I may and may not do .
 
In taking trees down, the kukri acts much like an axe, and demands just as much respect, if not more. The same cutting/ chopping methods apply, but just be carful as the blade is much closer to you than an axe head, and the cutting surface is much longer.


mike
 
Steely_Gunz said:
Kevin,
With time and careful swinging the khuk will teach you how to use it. The best adivice i've heard is to cut away from yourself, as Yvsa has mentioned. Also, just let the blade do the work. Don't force it. Don't go hard, but always expect that the blade will magically turn into a light sabre and go through what you are chopping in one stroke. A khuk can become a friend. it will speak to you, teach you things from the ages. However, like any friend it commands respect. You sound well on your way to understanding. Just go slow, aim carefully, and count your fingers and toes when you are done;)

Jake
Click to expand...

Jake, don't forget to look for legs, arms, and wrists. ;)

Kevin, welcome to the forums. Listen to these guys, and what ever you do, don't try to stop a blade with your arm.... It hurts!!! http://kydance.net/~heber/site/safety.html The 3 lower pics show my stitches and scar after being hit from a glancing blow with my 15" Ang Khola. Thank goodness all I got was some flesh and 4 tendons, which have healed nicely by the way. I am right handed and was chopping from Right to left, exactly what these guys say not to do. And I'm partly the reason why. :o Have fun, enjoy the Khukuri(s) and Be carefull!!!!!!!!

Heber
 
Kevin it's always good to learn your tool/weapon backwards and forwards.
Learning how to lighten up on the cuts when you're close to chopping through something will help a great deal.
Also learning how to stop your khukuri after it cuts through something leads to more strength and control which is always good.
If you're not using a "snap cut" it would behoove you to do so.
As you have basically said yourself, "The khukuri will teach you how to use it." and it will. You just need to be extra careful until you do and then always careful after you think you do know how to use it.
Another thing, large knives, like guns and alcohol, and alcohol do not mix.
Do Not Drink and Use your khukuri!!!!:thumbdn: Ever!!!! :mad:
 
I understand what you are asking...

The snap cut will concentrate the energy into a smaller arc...be more comfortable, require less energy, be safer and more effective. Hollowdweller is a master of it.

The redirecting you speak of is only required when the khukuri is *over* swung...

Proper use of a khukuri is more like dancing than fighting...skill over strength.

I am a brute with only raw power and love my big GRS. Hollow can *probably* outchop me with his Pen knife. Once in a while I hit things just right and drop 5-6" trees with one blow...but just once in a while. Danny in Japan can literally beat up khukuris...same idea...tons of power, but not the control. I know Danny can do it more often than I...but Hollow does it all the time.

Try turning the power down *2* notches...let your wrist move, and...

*Be the Blade*
 
Everyone has tried to substitute raw power for technique and everyone has failed.

That's quite a testimony to the Human Spirit, isn't it? I mean, we know it doesn't work but we keep trying, and our sons will try, and their sons......





munk
 
munk said:
Everyone has tried to substitute raw power for technique and everyone has failed.

That's quite a testimony to the Human Spirit, isn't it? I mean, we know it doesn't work but we keep trying, and our sons will try, and their sons......





munk
Click to expand...


I am yet to experience................. :o :p
 
Kevin the grey said:
I guess I should have been more specific about the type of work . . What I am asking might be better understood by a martial artist as they are used to redirecting energy . I am sure with patience and experience I will come to understand what the Kukuuri needs of me as I learn what I may and may not do .
Click to expand...

We don't practice much w/ live blades, we use sticks instead, much safer
When using live blades we work on form, not speed or power, thats what the sticks ( canes ) are for.
If you must use live blades for practice, just do some real slow, wide figure eights & watch your footwork, if your swinging left to right, your right leg should be back, never swing towards the forward leg, always swing to the rearward leg side
tom
 
Kevin,

Welcome to the Cantina. I often, if not usually, tend to keep my off hand locked in close to my chest while swinging a kuk. My tech w/ kuks is different than with most other blades: I tend to allow my arm to stop, and the energy to transfer into a flick with the wrist. ("Flick" may not be the right way to describe, but it's the word that comes to mind.) If you cut using this method, rotating your body with you as you cut, it's almost impossible to cut too deeply.

I cut a little differently when cutting tall grass and other light brush than when cutting heavier stuff, too. With the lighter stuff, a faster (though not necessarily more powerful) cut is what I use...it kinda accelerates just a little before hitting the weeds, and I "drain" the energy afterwards to control. Don't know really how to describe.

Hope this helps a little. Be safe, and the kuks will teach you.

John
 
Gentlemen I think we have a winner ! ! ! L:O:L I have seen many responses to my question that will serve nicely . I think one of the issues is I am handy with tools and can pick up manual skills easily . I think in this case my training did not serve me well . The methods you advise will slow down the speed with which I practice and I think that is what I need . I had already taken the advice of keeping the off side leg back . It is not just the weight of the blade as you say it is the ease with which it cuts which has other factors to consider . I think that nice little convex edge has a great deal of thought behind it .

A quick question before I go . Will the convex edge loan itself to axe and tomahawk blades ?
 
Thanks Monk I have been sharpening mu axes at about 35 ,40 degrees and they work well. I,ll have to put a convex edge on one and see if I can tell the difference .
 
Btw, Hi Kevin,
You should seek out an instructor to train w/.
Kali, Arnis, Escrima,& Penjac Silat are the major martial arts systems based
on weapons,
do a google search would be a good start,
I don't try to stop the blade, I use the momentum to flow into the next technique, doing the figue 8's will help teach you that
Most styles have 10-12 basic angles of attack, and you " flow " from one angle to the next one, so if your mano y mano & you miss, you flow into another strike
Remeber safety first, let the weight of the khukuri do the work, speed & power will come later as your technique improves
tom
 
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