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Chris my JKM-1 is 7 7/16" oal. The handle is 3" long, 3 1/8" counting the tang.
The blade is 0.010" less than 3/16" thick and has a distal taper that goes to 0.006" over 1/8" at the edge bevel at the tip.
Blade width is 55/64" which is just a tad less than 7/8 inch. It weighs exactly 5 ounces sans sheath and 6 1/4 ounces with the
Dangler sheath.
One of my carved handle Kumar Karda's is 10 1/16" oal and the handle is 4 1/8" with no habaki style bolster.
The forged blade goes from about 7/8" wide at the riccaso to 1 1/16" towards the point.
The distal taped blade goes from 3/16" wide at the riccaso to 1/8" at the edge bevel by the point.
It weighs Exactly 6 ounces sans
Danglersheath and exactly 7 ounces with the sheath.
If I was getting one for whittlein' and carvin' I would get the JKM-1 and then take the time like I did and put a single edge bevel
on it.
The single bevel isn't as strong as a blade with a secondary bevel, but it does do push cuts with amazing ease.
And to put the single bevel on these it helps a whole Lot to have diamond hones as they cut a lot flatter IMO.
A good stroping when getting the least bit dull goes a long way in keeping this kind of edge super sharp!!!
Hope this long winded post helps.
And yes I would get both. And if I had it to do over again I would have more JKM-1's than the Kumar Karda's as to me they're a lot more handy for intricate work.
That's not knocking the Kumar Karda's because they have their place and I like them equally well, I just use the JKM-1 more since I have been pretty well house bound this winter. That will change once I am able to get out more in the spring.
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>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®
"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 02-24-2001).]
