kydex questions

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bushcraftbasics

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Sep 16, 2011
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ok, so im starting to make holsters and sheaths out of kydex and have a few questions...i have a toaster oven, arbor press with dyes, kydex cooling press with foam, drill press...whats the best tool and method for cutting to shape? i have a hi-end dremmel (if there is such a thing) and am pretty artistic...am i missing anything? and would we suggest .060? and 1/4" or 3/16" eylets?

thanks for your input guys!

-dilla
 
Be aware, if you grind on it to clean it up and get any abrasive inside of the sheath it can embed in the plastic and scratch the knife every time it is inserted. I think this is a fairly common problem.

...I have found that files made for aluminum do a good job on plastic...
 
I don't like the .060 kydex. It's thin and warps pretty bad on me. I went to the thinner stuff thinking there would be some advantages, but so far it has been a pain in the ass. I like the thicker .093 stuff.

I like the 1/4 eyelets. I get mine from Tracy at USA Knifemaker. Look for the "premium Siska" eyelets. Those don't have the finish problems like some other brands.

I use a razor knife and my leatherman pliers for all rough shaping. I did use a dremel and a reinforced cutoff wheel, but that's just too nasty on so many levels. I just score where I want with the razor knife, and just carefully bend and snap it off with the pliers. Works well for me. I'm at the grinder about 5 seconds. Cuts down on all that dust that can come back to haunt you.
 
right on...Josh, if i go with a thicker kydex like .080 or .093, is there a length of the 1/4" siska eyelets that will work with a variety of thicknesses of kydex?

-dilla
 
I use a bandsaw and 1x42 to do it up. then sandpaper to soften the edges. I'm no kydex artist to be sure, but I DO mold in a drain channel and have taken to blowing out the inside with a compressor before fastening everything together. In fact since I'm a lazy jerk I don't rivet it together. This lets me blow it out with the compressor easily anytime. The tek-lok or a single chicago screw keeps 'em together.

-Daizee
 
so i went all out and ordered all my tools from knifekits...spent about $300, not bad in my opinion...i figure i can make that back selling sheaths to the becker necker crowd alone! those oem sheaths are g-bage! now i need kydex and eyelets...any one know if the Siska eyelets will work for the .080 kydex? or are they only good for the .093? should i not bother with the .060 or .080? i found a local shop where i can get a 4'x8' sheet of black for about $80...didnt ask em about .093 tho...hmmmm
 
I use a band saw for rough shape and a 120 or 150 grit belt to get final shape. I usually hand sand the edges with 220 or 320 after the belt grinder. Try using some Armour All after you are done fitting and sanding to even out the color.

As Nathan and Daizee said, make sure you clean out the grit.

Ric
 
.08 is about the perfect thickness IMO. I would rather have it than .093
A wood cutting bandsaw sails through this stuff, but I also use Wiss tin snips and that rips through it also.
WHen I do a foldover sheath I always use the thinner stuff vs a two piece design when I use thicker stuff.
WHen doing foldover I either use .04 or .06 kydex. Two piece designs I use .093 but wish I had .080
Sand to shape after being formed but never after rivetting. Hope this helps.
Who uses power equipment to burnish the edges, I would like to know the secret on that?
CW
 
Chris,

I tried something the other day that worked pretty well. After shaping the edge with a 120/150 belt, I used a maroon colored scotch brite wheel on my buffer. I'm going to try it a few more times because I was pretty happy with the results.

Ric
 
blindhogg said:
Who uses power equipment to burnish the edges, I would like to know the secret on that?
CW
Click to expand...

buffer... I go to the buffer after 220 on the edge..

ETA: If I had scotchbrite that's what Id use !!! I'm far from an expert let alone a novice :) but I've seen some kydex guys stick a pencil in the sheath to open it while buffing with the scotchbrite, helps get all the goobers out that make short work scratching the knife......
 
They have different lenghts of Siska rivets for different thickness kidex. You should be able to find them by looking on the website. Phydeaux great idea on the scothbrite.
 
I just use a Scotch brite wheel like this: ScotchBrite, part No.46935A18

They were throwing some of them out at work, so I brought a few to them home. I just stick it on my buffer.

Ric
 
Last edited:
Phydeaux
Thanks for sharing that, I will have to get one to try it out. I have buffed the edges but it just showed off the scratches left by the sanding belt better.
I think this might be the ticket.
CW
 
Sorry for my late response. The standard siska rivets over at Tracy's work fine with the .093 kydex/concealex. They're easier to set because there's not all that room to flare them. They stay put too. The rivets work well with the .060 stuff too. I've used them with all common sizes of kydex and they flare just perfect.
 
Glockman45 said:
They have different lenghts of Siska rivets for different thickness kidex. You should be able to find them by looking on the website. Phydeaux great idea on the scothbrite.
Click to expand...
they dont spec them for the .080 kydex ony .060 and .093...has anyone used the .093 rivets on .080?
 
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