kydex scratches

tito

tito

Joined
May 30, 2006
Messages
670
Does anyone have good methods for preventing/limiting scratches on blades from kydex sheaths? I'm experimenting with layering masking tape on the blade. So far retention or fit aren't problems, but I'm still getting scratches. The blade is blasted w/120g media. I washed the sheath with some dish soap thinking maybe there was some grit in there, but it didn't help much, if at all.

thanks for any advice
 
Scratches from kydex sheaths are just a part of reality when it comes to kydex and a knife blade :( I think it depends on how polished the surface was before the blade was made which would determine whether it gets scratched very little or alot. If the surface is nice and rough, the scratches will just blend into the blade surface and it won't appear there aren't any! I find that even using masking tape and yadda yadda will still not prevent scratches. A little, but not much. When someone puts the blade back in wrong, it will cause scratches.

I heard from RJ Martin, that he lines his kydex sheaths in moleskin...whatever the heck that is and gets no scratches as a result of the liner.
 
Moleskin is probably a great idea, but I wonder how he attaches it? I tried the search function, but not having much luck w/my connection.

BTW, moleskin is the stuff they sell by the shoe-shine products. You stick it on your feet to prevent blisters. Maybe I'll just get some and experiment sometime.

thanks for the reply
 
Hi Tito, I take a paper towel with a *light* dab of acetone and rub the kydex once before assembly. Acetone will melt the kydex and it will take the bumps off the outside quickly, so do not use much. If there are bits of kydex on the inside from cutting, this will take them right off and it smoothes out the surface. Try not to do many adjustments/cutting on the kydex after you build the sheath, because it will get inside and scratch the blade.

This doesn't stop it, but I think it helps. I don't see anything to gain with the already scratched type finish, because then you can't blame the kydex for making your knife look bad!
 
cover your blade in duct tape before you form the kydex. You'll have that "extra" thickness and allowance in your sheath.

If "no scratches" is a must, then hand-rub the blade lengthwise so that if you do get any scatches, they won't show.



:thumbup:
 
moleskin is normal used in athletics football and such for blisters its stick on just peel and stick you can find in any drug store
 
You can use moleskin, or you can use a lightweight felt. I spray my black felt with a silicone product to prohibit moisture. It works really well and best of all no scratches at all.

There are lots of products out there for getting the felt to stay, just think about it.

The pick and stick moleskin did not work well for me thats why I went with the felt.

Spencer
 
IIRC, someone posted some time ago about using velcro inside the sheath. I think it was the hook part. This gave the dirt someplace to hide instead of scratching the steel. It can be put in after completing the sheath by putting glue on the back side of the velcro, start at the entry to the sheath, pushing the velcro in with a flat stick ( like inserting the blade). Of course, you would have to leave a little extra space when molding the sheath. Sorry I do not remember who or when this was posted.
Chip Kunkle
 
Hopefully Normark will chime in but I follow his belief that anything you put inside the sheath has the potential to add troubles as what do you do if the moleskin inside your sheath gets covered with mud/dust etc. It is not the kydex that scratches the sheath it is the crud that gets inside the sheath that does and if you add more to the sheath there is more to hold the crud in. If you want to check this for yourself take a scrap piece of Kydex and take one of you knives and try to scratch the blade with a corner of the kydex- can't be done as Kydex is softer than steel- the same way brass rods can scrape off rust but not mar the blade. I tried the test myself to become a believer.
 
i'm guessing if you get dust in the sheath, blow it out...if you get mud in it ummm make a new sheath :D
 
Hey Guys..

Well a little late jumping on this bandwagon...

However...

Generally it isn't the kydex itself that sratches the blade..
The kydex would have to be a higher Rorkwell to put any kind of a scratch on a hardened blade..
Take a polished knife and rub the hell out of it on a piece of kydex..
You get nothing..

So whats left ??

Crap inside the sheath is probably what is causing the problem...

4 layers of masking tape on each side of the blade will help prevent this from happening...

My theory on blade scratching can be a number of things. It can get into your sheath from a number of ways..

If there is a piece of grit on your tape before you mold, it will transfer into the sheath during the molding process, and get left in the sheath, literally embedded in the hot plastic...

Keep your work area clean, as well as your plastic before you mold.

Grit from the grinder will surely enter the sheath as you grind it to shape....

I wash out ALL of my sheath twice before they go out. Once directly after grinding, before the eyes are set, then again after the fit.

As far as I'm concerned, Air doesn't cut it..So I wash...

You may also want to run your hand over the plastic, and feel for any bumps..If your fingernail hangs up on the bump then theres a problem.. A quick sand in that area and a wipe should clear it up..
Another way to check, which I use to do is with a wide putty knife.. run the putty knife over the plastic, you will feel anything on the surface...

Any grit in the plastic is from the factory..

I don't believe in using any form of lining in a sheath what so ever..
It only traps grit in the sheaths and attracts moisture..

If the knife is prepped properly it usually isn't a problem...

Knife makers can save some headaches when they sheath if the smoothen out all sharp edges that are inside the sheath..Especially those areas that will be used to lock the knife in the sheath.....

If these areas a left sharp, they will scrape their way in and out of the sheath, literally shaving of hunks of plastic... The sheath may also lose fit after only a short period of time... Plunge lines and guards should have special attention to be rounded and smooth..

Thumb traction from checkering or chainsaw files should also be softened up so they are less agressive.. If the need to be agressive,, tape these areas heavy first before you tape the main blade...

I don't like duct tape because it can leave imprints in the plastic, and may also leave a residue on the blade..
Wash and clean the blade with WD before you fit the knife.. Don't fit the knife with tape on, or a the very least, remove the tape, then put one layer back on during fitting..

True kydex marks on a blade will look like rubs, or polished lines on sand blasted blades..

Hope that helps and sorry again for the late arrival..

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
Thanks everyone. I've been experimenting with masking tape, but I'm not quite satisfied - this method tends to make it difficult to get a superb fit. My problems only started once I was able to bead blast - the least amount of grit inside the sheath, and the scratch shows up real well. I'm fairly certain the grit is from the grinding belt, but it could enter from any number of sources once the knife gets out in the world. Thanks again for all the methods - now to go try some of them out.

c
 
Hey Tito...


"I've been experimenting with masking tape, but I'm not quite satisfied - this method tends to make it difficult to get a superb fit."

That all depends on where you take your fit from..

Fitting a knife can be tedious work, each knife is different and takes the lock from different places...

By the sounds of what you are saying you are taking the lock from the lower guard or ricasso area of the knife..

A Skeleton knife is obviously more difficult to get a lock on, but a knife with scales, depending on how they are shaped,, you can grab a lock off of the handles and or lower guard...

Can you post a picture of the knife?

If you are taking the lock off the Ricasso area, when you peel the tape,, there should be a slight rattle...
That rattle is easy to get rid of depending on how the knife is made...

If you guard and shoulders of your plunge line are square and sharp, your going to have "skating" as the knife comes out it drags through the sheath.. If rounded,, they glide through the sheath..

Another little trick is to use some Snap brand silicone, give your finger a shot, and wipe it inside the mouth..
If the knife is too skinny either dap some on a Q-tip or dap it even on the knife,, then re-insert...

Silicone in the sheath is like Nigh and Day,, however,, overdoing it can be a pain in the ass and make a tight sheath too loose to carry inverted,, the knife can slip right out...

The amount of tape (on the plus side) you put on the blade, should have little effect on the fit of the sheath,,as you shouldn't be taking the fit from the blade..
If you've got lateral movement at the tip,, give it a few seconds of heat and push a dimple in the back,, right at the tip..

" My problems only started once I was able to bead blast - the least amount of grit inside the sheath, and the scratch shows up real well."

Are they scratches or Buff marks ??

Clean the sheath out Very well,, there shouldn't be Any grit inside the sheath at all...

" I'm fairly certain the grit is from the grinding belt,"

Do you set your eyelets Before grinding ??

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
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