Kydex sheath help

JGguns

JGguns

Hobbyist here to learn
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Nov 15, 2009
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Well its been a few years since I made a knife an the other day I got a wild hair an decided to give it another go. Overall it came out decent a few missteps on my part. But one thing I am am having trouble figuring out is how to soften the shoulders(?) at the plunge line. I am flat grinding on a platen (that's all I have). These sharp edges catch on the kydex when inserting into the sheath. I got around this by beveling the inside of the sheath an softening the edges of the knife by hand. This worked but I know there is a better way to achieve a much neater uniformed finished product.

The 3-4 years of not messing with them definitely set me back. But I had a lot of fun. A few pics of the finished knife an sheath. I made it for a gift for a buddy.




 
kdogmcg said:
How many layers of tape are you using on the blade when molding?

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I used a one layer of scotch tape(that's all I had on hand besides some thick gorillas tape)
 
I use 2 layers of painters tape. It will help with the issue you are having.

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On most knives I use gorilla tape. It works well just make sure you clean any tape residue out of the kydex before finishing. Otherwise two layers of painters tape although at times that seems to be to little hence the gorilla tape.
 
I've seen guys use one layer of painters tape and one layer of I believe duct (the actual shiny metallic tape).

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If you hear the sheath up and slightly flair the kydex out around the plunge it should take care of the problem. As long as you still have enough material left to do it. Looks like you have the profile trimmed pretty close. I usually get everything fitting/ releasing the way I want before final shaping. As for tape, I use 4 layers of painters tape per side. Only the first layer covers from ricasso to tip. The next layer stops one inch before the tip and the next layer stops one inch before that. You end up with a sheath that secures the knife at the tip and handle or ricasso. It's very secure when fully inserted, but comes out easily after you get past that first inch. Started doing it for sash carry sheaths like a southern comfort style. You really have to shake it hard to get the blade to fall out, but with an intentional sharp tug the knife jumps into your hand.
I find it also works well for sheaths that are Molded around the handle. Stops the rattle you can sometimes get without having to have the sheath too tight
 
I use 2 layers of blue tape and then one layer of gorilla duct tape.

Press

do all the clean up, shaping and then insert TAPED BLADE and set the rivets.

Take out the blade, remove tape and test fit. If blade rattles ...

Then with a heat gun adjust the tension at the throat and increase until it does not rattle

It is the tension at the throat that holds the knife in place.

The blade should free float inside the sheath so no scratches occur.

Now considering you already have the sheath done. Put a few layers of blue tape over the plunge line. Reinsert the knife and use a heat gun to GENTLY soften the plunge area on the sheath. The tape will cause the kydex to reshape and get rid of that sharp contact area.

Let cool, test, repeat if needed.
 
I usually do sheaths for beefy blades, up to khukuris, and have had success with 1 and 2 layers of blue tape then hand forming around the bolster area. Sometimes the smaller knives grab some kydex when they're freshly stropped, but I use .93 kydex so the little nicks aren't an issue.

I will definitely try the method outlined by Grenfells though, sounds great for little blades!
 
Thanks for all the help fellas! I'll give these tips a try on my next one.
 
kdogmcg said:
Not the vinyl duck tape. But the metal shiny DUCT tape. Plus with a layer of painters tape under it, goo won't be an issue

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Your referring to the HVAC type aluminum foil backed tape. Very different from the classic duct (or Duck) tape or any of the multitude of imitations of it.
 
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