Hi guys, this is was my first DIY kydex sheath and after some research I figured out a simple trick to minimize the blade scratching associated with kydex sheaths.
I found a thin nylon washer ($0.013 each) at ACE hardware to use as a spacer to keep the sheath "open" along the blade edge.
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It took 2 trys before I was happy with the it. On my first attempt I covered the blade with tape to allow for some space but it just didn't feel right and had some blade play. Reheating the kydex un-does the first attempt.
On my 2nd attempt I didn't cover the blade with anything and molded the kydex tight to the blade and handle. I did this by heating the 0.93" thick kydex sheat at 330 deg F, I molded it in to the knife mostly by hand using dish cloth and oven mits. I used my cutting board and a serving tray to pinch the blade. The cutting board and serving tray both had handle grooves which lucky for me worked as effectively as having a press. It allowed me to press the limp kydez tight to the blade and tight to the handle.
After it cooled I shaped it with a belt sander and polished the edges. I drilled the holes, inserted the thin nylon washers and then permament installed the 1/4" eyelets.
I used a chicago screw to attach the leather frog to the sheath. The leather is thick but still flexs just enough to work for cross draw carry which I like. It holds the knife securely but still allows for a smooth draw.
The kydex sheet cost $10, eyelets $3 and the leather was scrap that I had in my leather box.
The spacer also prevents the blade edge from riding along a hard kydez edge or worst, sand or dirt that might otherwise contaminate the inside of the sheath.
[/IMG]
I found a thin nylon washer ($0.013 each) at ACE hardware to use as a spacer to keep the sheath "open" along the blade edge.
It took 2 trys before I was happy with the it. On my first attempt I covered the blade with tape to allow for some space but it just didn't feel right and had some blade play. Reheating the kydex un-does the first attempt.
On my 2nd attempt I didn't cover the blade with anything and molded the kydex tight to the blade and handle. I did this by heating the 0.93" thick kydex sheat at 330 deg F, I molded it in to the knife mostly by hand using dish cloth and oven mits. I used my cutting board and a serving tray to pinch the blade. The cutting board and serving tray both had handle grooves which lucky for me worked as effectively as having a press. It allowed me to press the limp kydez tight to the blade and tight to the handle.
After it cooled I shaped it with a belt sander and polished the edges. I drilled the holes, inserted the thin nylon washers and then permament installed the 1/4" eyelets.
I used a chicago screw to attach the leather frog to the sheath. The leather is thick but still flexs just enough to work for cross draw carry which I like. It holds the knife securely but still allows for a smooth draw.
The kydex sheet cost $10, eyelets $3 and the leather was scrap that I had in my leather box.
The spacer also prevents the blade edge from riding along a hard kydez edge or worst, sand or dirt that might otherwise contaminate the inside of the sheath.
