L6 Steel Questions

Joined
Mar 14, 2015
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Hey everyone new to the forum and new to proper care and maintenance for my knives.

I recently bought a knife that was made of L6 steel, I have heard mixed reviews about it but the price was good and with proper care and maintenance is supposed to be a very good steel.

So everyone, how do I properly take care of this knife?
I live in a temperate climate so rusting should be average to less than average due to humidity. What about forcing a patina? Good option not a good option?

I will take any info you guys (and ladies) can offer tips tricks what ever.

Thanks very much in advance and Im looking forward to being part of the community
 
I have mixed feelings about L6. I had one knife in L6, the edge retention was horrible. That does not mean of course that it is a bad steel - as always, the heat treatment makes or brakes a steel. It seems that at one point it was "the steel" for knife makers. Assuming the heat treatment is right on, no steel really sucks IMHO. My example as always, Nick Wheeler forged a knife out of 1084, ground to thin edge for this big camp knife, and chops dried antler without edge failure. What better steel does anybody want?? So, L6 is probably as good as any other steel as long as it was treated right.

In regards to rust, forced patina etc, my opinion is very different from most other forumites here. A blade maintenance does not only need edge/apex sharpening but maintenance of the primary grind as well (u could call it the back bevel, relief bevel etc.). So I grind away on the primary grind regularly before I sharpen. That keeps the geometry up to snuff and keeps it easier to sharpen too. A forced patina would be a total waist of time since I would grind it away the very next time anyway. I like a natural patina if it has time to develop, often the spine, around the bolster etc. and that is fine with me. If rust is a concern (despite polishing those back bevels which makes it less likely to rust), I would use Frog lube if it needs to be food safe, Eezox or Tuf cloth (great personal experience) if food is not a concern, although I am not even sure whether Tuf Cloth is toxic at all, some time ago, it was not approved by the FDA for food processing. Tuf cloth is so convenient because it comes in a zip lock bag as a cloth that is soaked with the "tuf" and easy to apply, even when wet outside, cold etc.

Can't help but mention that u will likely get recommendations here about mineral oil, beeswax, camellia oil you name it and it all works - to some degree.
 
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It has chromium and nickel in it so it should be stain resistant. But that means it might be a little more difficult to put a patina on the blade. If your blade has a good HT then it should work well and hold a good edge. L6 also is a good cold weather steel as it won't develop brittleness until well below 0 F.
 
Ok so L6 is a spectacular user and beater steel. Decent edge retention and great toughness and stability. The only real downside is that the corrosion resistance rates, on a scale of 1-10, at about a - 5. I have had L6 spot by the end of the day when it was freshly cleaned. Also had it start pitting within a week after being blued.

It isn't a bad steel, but good lord it sucks for keeping clean. I would rate L6 as a bit tougher than 5160 with edge retention a little better than 420HC sans-Bos.
 
There can be a wide range of chromium and nickel in L6. Cr; .60% - 1.2%, Ni; 1.25% - 2.0%. So one knife in L6 could be significantly different than another.
 
I love this steel for big choppers and hatchets. It is basically 1070 carbon steel, with small additions of Vanadium, Molybden, Chromium, Nickel, and Silicon. The first three are intended to form some carbides for increased wear resistance (over the plain carbon steel), while Si and Ni are there mainly to improve toughness and ductility at high hardnesses, thus making this steel more resistant to impacts and more resistant to cracks, breaks, and chipping.

It is one of the very rare steels suitable to form and hold a decent edge, but which do not become brittle even at very low temperatures. Time ago I read a story about an exploratory team which needed to chop frozen meat in Antarctica, at -60 Celsius. At such temperatures, any material on earth becomes significantly more brittle than in normal conditions, including steel. They had all of the knives they had tried broken or badly chipped, all the way until a custom knife maker made them some knives out of L6 specifically for that purpose).

Gransfors Bruks uses a version of L6 in their axes and hatchets, as it is a very tough any easy to forge. My experience with their stuff is outstanding. It sharpens extremely easy to a shaving sharp edge and holds that edge very long in use (although not razor sharp). At 57 HRC, that edge can take direct rock impacts resulting in only plastic deformation and no chipping at all.

As it comes to knives intended to cut only, which are not necessary intended for impacts or heavy use, in this sort of application, L6 is mediocre to medium and you can find a lot of steels which highly outperform it.

Like someone mentioned above, one downside for L6 is also the fact that it is too permisive as a specification. The amounts of C, V, Cr, Mn, Ni, and Si have too wide ranges associated in the L6 specification, rather than a target fixed amount of each. This makes it possible that L6 from different sources to be so much different in properties from each other. I think this is one of the reasons why it is not too oftenly encountered in knives from reputable manufacturers (who prefer consistency). The heat treatment is also more complex and costly than in the case of plain carbon steel. For the cost of heat treating this steel in a way to properly form uniform carbide frome those elements (V, Mo, Cr), requiring deep cryogenic cycles, the manufacturers who have the tools to achieve that will rather prefer to do this with steels that offer better wear resistance and better corrosion resistance, at a close (even not equal) toughness.

PS: L6 was originally a bandsaw steel.
 
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