Lacewood and Zebrawood finishes, problems?

shappa

shappa

Joined
Oct 15, 1998
Messages
3,556

Hi gang!

I've got some Lacewood and some Zebrawood on the way and I need to know the best way to finish them.
Do either of them have any properties that I should be aware of like coco-bolo (allergies) or Ebony (cracking)?

The handles will go on knives that will see little or no use, so durability, "grippiness" is not a big issue. I want these to be beautiful, not working knives.

Any tips, hints, or warnings will appreciated!

Thanks Tom Hickey

------------------

~~TOM~~
 
Zebrawood is very nice for handles. It needs only to be fine sanded and buffed for a great finish.

Lacewood is very very soft and care must be taken to avoid gouging the surface. Polishing does not work, the softer areas tend to gouge out with the buffing wheel.
Fine sand and seal with a commercial sealer.
Too bad that such a dramatic wood is so soft.

I haven't run into any processing concerns other than above.



------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
Lacewood must vary by where it is grown or something. I have some, and it is NOT soft.
 
The Lacewood that I'm getting is from Queensland Australia.
Are there other locations where it is from?
Sort of like "Ironwood"?

What is a good sealer? Any recommendations?

Thanks, Tom Hickey

------------------

~~TOM~~
 
You'll just LOVE the smell of zebrawood !!!
I state that sarcastically of course. I really can't add anything to the above except be sure to where your respirator as with any wood or any other material as far as that goes.

CLWilkins
 
Yes, there are two major supplies for lacewood. I know Australia is the much more popular one. I would be taking a complete guess if I said where the other one is. I used to know, but I completely forget. Sorry.
 
Okay, I found it: The two sources I found are Australia and Brazil. I assume more of South America grows lacewood than just Brazil (although Brazil is huge), but there you go. I also read that Australian lacewood is supposed to polish well (I don't know about the Brazilian stuff because the website was just reporting on the stuff they carry which is Australian lacewood). Okay, I'll shut up.
 
If you really want the lacewood to have a mirror finish have it stabilized and you'll be glad that you did. It will add strength to the wood. to finish it off take it to 400 to 600 range then polish.

------------------
Curtis Wilson


 
i have a question for all the knifemakers out there, why stop at 600 grt, i usually stop a 2,500 for wood and steel, and 10,000 for buffalo horn, and i always paste wax and buff.
 
I believe that George Tichbourne is more qualified to answer your question concerning stopping at 600 grit since he probably knows more about buffing and polishing than most folks. Quite a few folks stop at 400 grit and buff from there.

C Wilkins
 
i was just curious, 400 to me is not a real fine finish, but f you guys are making working knives it is fine, mybe i'll give him an e-mail.
 
There is no real need to go beyond 400 grit because the buffing compound has grit in it and will remove scratches very quickly. In fact the buffing compound aggressiveness can work against you.

I do an incurved bolster on many of my models and when buffing the wood adjacent to the bolster I have to exercise restraint because the buffing compound tends to "scoop" the wood out along the wood / metal junction (not desirable)

In most cases I will stop sanding at 180 or 240 grit and go to green cut and colour compound on a sewn wheel.

Buffalo horn is a bit of a problem as it has a definite grain and I have to keep changing the buffing angle to avoid accenting the grain.

Light coloured handles like white corian, thuya burl and ivory micarta are buffed with white compound because of the staining caused by the darker compounds. Some light coloured woods I seal with a coat of Super Glue before buffing to prevent staining.

------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
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