LaGriffe ... Sharpening - Help!

Joined
Aug 17, 2001
Messages
346
I'm having some serious problems re-profiling my Emmerson LaGriffe. It just doesn't seem to want to get a razor edge when I try to sharpen it. :(

Anybody else had these problems?

Any resolutions?

HELP!

Joe
 
Here's my technique:

Hewlett Diamond JewelStik with the metal screw-in rod. DMT or Lansky clamp system.

Work at the LG for 5-6 hours on the coarse hone, until you finally raise a burr. These things are tenacious.

It takes forever, and I pretty much ruined the JewelStik, but it's damn sharp now.

-j
 
5-6 hours ..... wow!!!

Do I have that sort of patience ???

Best get down to gym and do some serious forearm exercises!

(Kinda feel a little easier, knowing you can actually do it)

"Tenacious" ... you telling me.

Thanks,

Joe
 
The problem is that you really can't bear down with the diamond stones or you risk tearing the diamond out of the steel substrate (supposedly).

I much prefer waterstones like with the EdgePro where you can really tear away steel. It works a crapload faster than diamond, surprisingly.

My friend tells me that for the LG, the Spydie SharpMaker with the diamond sleeves works very well, but also takes forever.

-jon
 
i wonder if ya could send in a LG for the edgepro free sharpening demo, seems like that would be the thing to do if its that difficult imho....? sure ya could,

greg
 
SIFU,

The LG can't be sharpened on the stock EP... the tight curve and short length of the LG make it so it doesn't fit the stones on the EP

In fact, most tight recurves (mini-com is one) won't work on the EP.

Some people have epoxied a Sharpmaker triangle hone to a EP blank and that's supposed to work...

-j
 
I don't own a LaGriffe. However, I have used the Hewlett Diamond JewelStik 1-2-3 for recurved blades for years with good success. It seems that any curved blade would work well with a JewelStik 1-2-3. It also works well on my CRKT Bear Claw and Emerson Commanders.

I find that recurve blades and any curved blades sharpen easiest freehand insead of using a Lansky type of arrangement. The JewelStick has course, medium and fine diamond grades all on one stick. Try it and I think, with practice, you will like it.

I did just purchase a Spyderco Sharpmaker. It has a section, in the booklet, about sharpening curved blades also, but I have yet to use this sharpening system on anything really curved.
 
I recently chipped the tip off of my la griffe (i practice using it by filling up old gallon milk jugs with water) after I carelessly swung it into my barbecue grill. Anyway, instead of sending it back to emerson i got some run of the mill sharpening rod from a local sporting good's store (it has a flat edge, a recessed groove for sharpening fishooks and a tapered end curved blades). I think it's some crappy ceramic/diamond dust thing and I can't remember who makes it. Anyway, and this worked for me...no guarantees.
I found that if I used honing oil that the metal came off the knife a lot faster. I was actually able to fashion a semi-tanto point onto mine so that if I ever do have to stab something with it, I just have to apply pressure at an angle up or down (it's still curved and most effective using a controlled swing). Anyway, try honing oil if you haven't. My blade isn't as razor sharp as it was (probably due to my lack of experience sharpening by hand), but it's sharp enough to go through a plastic milk jug full of water w/o me feeling any impact resistance (and an apple w/o getting stuck). I doubt that I, personally, can get it back to a "razor" edge w/o some specialized equipment to 1) make sure that edge is true and even and 2) apply totally even pressure during the sharpening process. Still, I carry my LG for protection and it's more than sharp enough for what I would use it for.
Also, if you do use oil, I found it most effective if I frequently clean and re-oil the sharpening rod (just use q-tips and put a towel underneath your knife to catch any run-off. Good luck. [My total sharpening time, including fashioning the new tanto edge, was around 4 hours over two days...but now it's a blade that's personal to me, not just something I bought in a store]
 
I hit mine with a dremel tool and the sanding drum!! I needed to thing the edge down, then finished off with Sharpmaker ceramics.

Nice and sharp now :)
 
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