laminated or carbon mora???

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Back on the mora kick for a while....Was wondering what folks would feel more comfortable with in the bush out of the 2....I originally thought the lam model was made to be stronger...but that is no the case, the core is strong so that it can take a real thin edge but its buffered by softer steel...it supposedly is "bendy" THe carbon models are your basic 1095....I just got the laminated model...and am considering either another lam or similar carbon model..I'm going on a bare bones survival trip in a little over a week and wanted to bring a mora as my primary blade...but since that's the case, I'd hate to have it bend or snap on me..(Although I don't plan on abusing it....I'll have an axe) any thoughts???
 
I find the plain carbon Moras to be more robust. I've not broken a laminated one, but I've bent them more than once.

todd
 
Given your needs, I'd prefer the carbon. Easier to sharpen, and potentially more durable.

I'm sure the stainless would be just fine too...

I would insist on one of the full-length tang models, not one with the molded plastic handles.

-Bob
 
If you want to use your knife for some not too rough lateral prying, better go with the plain carbon or the stainless varieties. The shorter the knife, the better would stand up to some prying, but the differences are not too great.

Among the plastic ones the 500 series Eriksson models (with the red plastic handles) have the tang extending to around 3/4th of the handle. Strong and the plastic is grippy enough too.:thumbup: :thumbup:

http://www.knifeforums.com/uploads/1161231224-moraxraywtext_bg.jpg

You can baton with any of these, the "secret" is to strike the blade in a way which won't create stress in a fulcrum:

http://barkriverknives.com/docs/batoning.pdf
 
I would go with plain carbon as well,seem sturdier and It may just be me but I've had the edges roll on some of the laminated ones.
 
Owning just one mora? Not possible! Get a few and see what you like. One will end up in the toolbox, another with your fishing gear, the car camping cook kit, your kitchen, and your hiking or hunting gear. Think of them more like screwdrivers rather than expensive specialized knives.
 
yeah I heard since the edge on the lami models is so thin that it some times can roll or chip when cutting hardwood or bone....Probably end up getting a a couple of the erriksons with the wooden handles
 
RescueRiley,

With all the above said, I think you would be perfectly fine with your laminated steel mora and an axe in the bush.:)

The problems reported by some about the the laminated moras rolling seem to be mostly due to the factory edge being burnt (this shows more readily in thin edged knives as opposed to the thick prybars), and the chipping is probably due to abuse.

Old Jimbo has some interesting observations about diffferent moras on his web site:

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/

Carbon steel classic moras:

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/mora.html

Plastic handled moras:

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/mora2.html

Stainless mora clipper:

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/mora2.html

And finally the laminated moras:

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/lsm.html

Old Jimbo uses his knives hard, even though he does not abuse them.
Let me quote him about the laminated Frost of Sweden moras:

"It's take a few months of whittling on wood to really test the steel - this involves a lot of hard prying which is more stressful to edges than just slicing paper. I expect good results since people have been using these on wood for a long time. So far things have worked out well. A big help to avoiding chipping might well be the polishing of the bevels.
...
I bought a couple of no-name Mora knives from Lee Valley to test against the laminated Frost versions. ...They came with better sheath fit than the laminated versions, and actually a better bevel on the blade. My bet is that a lot of knife users would use them right away or with just a touch up sharpening and find that they held an edge longer than the laminated knives. With proper sharpening of both versions, though they won't. ...

I have tried the laminated blades with a baton on dry wood and haven't noticed any chipping of the edge yet. That might change with extensive trials.
...
Whether or not you find the laminated blades to be superior is going to depend a lot on how you use them, but I do believe that if you give the slim blade profiles a chance you might find them to be just what you need."
 
I just read mrostov's post in the other thread. His experience seems to mirror that of Old Jimbo. :) :thumbup:
 
I just placed an order for 2 Frost Mora #780's in carbon steel with a differential heat treatment. Hopefully I can get to play with them this weekend.
 
I just placed an order for 2 Frost Mora #780's in carbon steel with a differential heat treatment. Hopefully I can get to play with them this weekend.

Received my new Mora's today!! Has to be the BEST $11 knife known to man! Soon as I can make a few kydex sheaths for them they will go where I go.:D
 
Riley, Riley, Riley. ALWAYS carbon bro.
 
So what's been your guys typical wait times on knives from ragweed? Is he pretty quick in getting his orders out, or has he grown soo big that it takes a bit. I got a triflex craftsman and a #S-0125 "sport fishing" on the way for testing, and want to know when to look out for em. Placed the order this afternoon. (thursday)
 
Ragnar is sending out the orders ASAP, which usually means the same or next day. :thumbup: :thumbup:
You can e-mail him, and he will tell you the exact time.
 
So what's been your guys typical wait times on knives from ragweed? Is he pretty quick in getting his orders out, or has he grown soo big that it takes a bit. I got a triflex craftsman and a #S-0125 "sport fishing" on the way for testing, and want to know when to look out for em. Placed the order this afternoon. (thursday)
I've never waited more than 3 business days for an order from Ragnar.

todd
 
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