Lanksy Problems

J

javyn

Joined
Oct 2, 2013
Messages
19
Hey guys. Just getting into knives and sharpening. I recently bought the 5 stone Lansky system because I read it claimed as being "idiot proof"

Well...they haven't met an idiot quite like me because I just turned a hair shaving factory edge on my Case Mini Copperlock into a dull P.O.S LOL.

Has anyone else had problems with this system?

I've read the tips and tutorials, watched half a dozen youtube videos...am doing all that I should be doing (or so I'd think at least), but the edge on my knife can cut paper well just can't pop the hairs off my arm.

Is the Lanksy capable of this? Am I asking too much from this system, or is my technique that bad?

I've tried 25, 20, and 17 degree angles and the end results are about the same.

Only thing is I didn't buy the stand, I just hold the clamp in one hand and sharpen with the other.

Is not having the stand perhaps what's holding me back?

Thanks!
 
I'd REALLY recommend mounting the clamp. I have one of the stands for mine, but have had better luck putting the clamp in a hobby-type vise (Pana-Vise). Much more stable (clamp doesn't rotate or move at all, like it will in Lansky's own stand). It allows the user to focus on sharpening, instead of maintaining a grip on the uncomfortably-held clamp (just doesn't seem to be a painless way to hold it, for me anyways).

The hones themselves should do fine on Case's blades (Tru-Sharp stainless or CV).


David
 
Last edited:
A problem I had with the system is that the clamp did not match the angle of the grind, essentially making the angles different on either side of the knife. One side of the knife would lay flat against the clamp, but the other side would be resting towards the spine of the knife in one area. Or if I shifted the knife in the clamp, either slightly edge-ward or towards the spine, it would change the angle slightly and spoil my efforts. You might check for that, if that made any sense.

Also what David said about the clamp-I too used a vice and got better results. I think there's some tiny amount of shifting in the clamp that can keep the edge from being all that it should.
 
Hmmmm I don't have a vice or workbench...would you still recommend the clamp over Lanksy's stand?
 
javyn said:
Hmmmm I don't have a vice or workbench...would you still recommend the clamp over Lanksy's stand?
Click to expand...

After using a vise for mine, I sort of got spoiled on it. So, I'd still recommend it. With my Pana-Vise, instead of attaching directly to a bench/countertop, I attached it to a piece of 3/4" thick melamine/mdf board (basically laminated cabinet/countertop material), about 18" square or so. I put some non-skid rubber feet on the bottom of that, so it could be placed on the counter or table or any other stable surface. The board was heavy enough, and the rubber feet gave enough traction, to keep it from moving while working. When done, I could just set it aside and out of the way. Very handy, and more so when working on big blades & longer sharpening jobs. Really cuts down on fatigue, and the stability of it minimizes errors and sloppy work that comes from too much movement/wobble and fatigue.


David
 
i got one early on, for the same reason you stated...dummy proof.....i abandoned it years ago out of frustration and haven't touched it since. i found it worked fine on some knives geometry of the spine and others failed miserably. i went to the sharpmaker to help me learn angles and diamond and regular benchstones and never looked back.

if i was gonna get another sharpening contraption it would be a wicked edge or edge pro type. at this time i don'
t see the need i can keep mine sharp and while i like the beautiful mirrored edges and precise angles these devices provide....it's not worth the money to me at this time. as usual ymmv, and i respect that.......
 
I've never had a problem with the lansky. You have to be careful to set the blade in the clamp correctly and ensure it is centred, especially for full flat grinds or longer blades when you move it nearer to the tip. I put painters tape on the two jaws to help protect the finish on the blades, and it seems to help hold the blade better centred as well when you're trying to balance small flat ground blades.

The stand is invaluable too. I don't bolt it down, but use my off hand to hold it down to the table and keep my fingers on the knife clamp to keep it from rotating and shifting.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I went to Academy and bought the stand today. HUGE help. I actually put a burr on one of the edges. I have to say I actually got the blade pretty sharp, but once I got past the 280 green stone, dullsville again. Must have screwed up somehow with finer blue and yellow stones.

Still though, I guess I need to keep practicing, but at least I'm making improvement. Positioning is kinda difficult with a Case Mini Copperlock because of the clip point. I position it in the small groove, and obviously I can't move the clamp past where the point starts to clip.
 
Have you used a sharpie to make sure you are getting all the way to the edge of the edge?

Did you raise a burr along the entire length of the knife on both bevels before progressing to the next stone?

How are you mounting the rods? They should be flush with their respective stones.
Use your finger to press down or raise up the rod behind the rod guide to eliminate as much play as possible.

I strongly suspect that your are not apexing the edge properly.
 
Probably right Sadden, I was not as anal about lining up the rods as I should have been. I got frustrated and tried aggressively using a regular stone and believe I just ruined the edge. Need to find a place to take it to get it reground I guess.
 
javyn said:
Probably right Sadden, I was not as anal about lining up the rods as I should have been. I got frustrated and tried aggressively using a regular stone and believe I just ruined the edge. Need to find a place to take it to get it reground I guess.
Click to expand...

The low grit edges are very toothy and when you try them it seems like the edge is very sharp. As you are refining the edge you get less feel of sharpness as you are trying the edge.
For me there are two components to the sharp edge, as you are going up in the grits you have to apply less pressure, as the edge is refined more pressure can lead to rolling the edge. Finally after 1k you can further refine by stropping on plain leather, pasted leather, felt with diamond spray or CrO etc.
 
You should be able to get this man. Go down to the coarsest stone and form a burr along the entire length of the edge. Flip over the knife and repeat. You mentioned you only got a burr down one side one time this is your problem. Rod alignment is important. But on your lowest grit stone you should be able to correct it. I cant remeber off the top of my head what the lowest lansky is...

Get a burr on both sides. Make sure your rods all match the level of the stones and dont move onto the next stone until your sure you have apexed the entire length of the edge.

The lansky is a capable system for softer steels and small knives. BUt i think your getting ahead of yourself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top