Lansky Advise?

westcoaster

westcoaster

Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
129
Hello,

Well its time for a sharpener, after finally (ha ha) reaching my goals for my collection. I am most interested in the Lansky Deluxe due to the range of stones and ability to control edge angle. My question is about blade size. Do any of you have experience with large or small blades? Say down to a Folts Minimalist and up to a Kershaw Outcast? Will a small blade fit or be too close to the blade clamp? Is moving a large blade down the clamp too much of a pain?

I am not totally set on the Lansky so I am open to suggestions.

Thanks
 
A lot here like the Lansky system, and a lot here don't. You can search for commentary on the Lansky system on this site as I believe the search function is restored for all.

Personally, I like it for a lot of things but not for all things. It makes quick work of reprofiling the grinds on a new knife. I have used mine on the the lowest junk metal to the super steels, and the plain grit stones work great for me. It will give quick, accurate regrinds when you have beaten up an edge. If you practice and are careful when you mount the blade in the holder you can get great bevels, microbevels, and do touch ups in minutes. If you get this system make sure you get the little pedestal for the holder/bevel guide. It makes using the system a snap. Follow the directions!

The Lansky has its shortcomings. I find the grinds get inaccurate (to very inaccurate!) when the blade length exceeds +/- 6" or so, depending on the profile of the knife. If you don't pay close attention you can put the knife in the holder in a skewed fashion and you will cut uneven bevels, one side steep, one side flat. The holder works best when the blade has a flat area on the spine such as a saber grind or a blade profiled to have a flat area as part of the design of the blade. Full flat grinds can be a problem in mounting.

I wouldn't do without my Lansky setup, but it isn't the only tool I use to sharpen. I started out sharpening on oilstones a few decades ago, so I have a lot of practice maintaining bevels. With that in mind, I purchased a 12" oval diamond chef's rod that I use for most of my sharpening. The length makes it easy to maintain the proper bevel angle because I can get a long, even stroke when I use it. I believe it is about the equivalent of a 600 grit paper. Once bevels are set (see above) it takes just seconds to revive an edge with it. I use this on everything from my folders and sheath knives to my kitchen knifes.

Off and on I see a professional knife maker at our local gun show. He told me that he and a couple of others still use their Lansky system to set the bevels on their pocket knife models, and some of their small fixed blades. They are currently on a buffer or paper wheel jag now for finishing up, but the bevels are set by the Lansky.

Others will come along with their favorite set up. Some folks seem to do better with one setup/system than others do, so I have noticed that adamant opinions vary widely. You may have to try a couple of different systems before you find one you like for yourself.

Robert
 
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I used the Lansky setup for quite a while before trying other systems. It works well for the blade types mentioned above. Also works for tri-angle bevels. Moving the clamp down the blade is really not too much of a pain. I eventually locked into a nice system of just flipping the clamp in my hand (I'm not really a burr sharpener) and it works for me. I use and prefer the Lansky clamp to the DMT aligner clamp for most of my knives and use it frequently with the DMT rods/'stones'.
 
If you are into a "clamp and rod" system I suggest the KME sharpening system, by far superior to the flimsy Lansky IMO.
 
Most any system you can buy will work more or less.

I disagree about the KME.

I favor the GATCO over the KME and Lansky.

For what you get the GATCO gives you more for your money than either the Lansky or the KME.

I use the GATCO Professional kit. I have added the extra fine and ultimate finishing hones along with a stropping regimen.

Good Luck.
 
For that sort of clamp system, I tried the Lansky and found it too flimsy. I used the GATCO with diamond stones for many years and liked it for small to large folders and small fixed blades. But when I got the DMT Aligner with it's diamond stones, I knew that this was the clamp system I preferred. Although the clamp is made of plastic, it seems to be more robust than the GATCO, certainly more so than the Lansky, and able to handle the same range of knives. It's also a clamp that can be used without its own designated stones, running the guide arms on the table top along side a stone or sand paper, giving it much more versatility than the other two.

Stitchawl
 
Yes the Gatco is cheaper but more user friendly??? No not in my opinion. I had both the Gatco, Lansky (still have the KME). However the Gatco works better then the Lansky IMO.

I usually use the sharpmaker for small blades, the KME for medium size and Edge Pro apex for big knives. I´m new to the Edge pro and yesterday I finally got my Endura sharper the ever before.
 
In this "class" of sharpeners, they're all about the same. They're decent quality for what you get, and will produce similar results. There's really not one better or worse than the other, it's just personal preference... they'll all sharpen a knife. Each has its idiosyncrasies, but if you use it for a while, you can work with them. I'd look more at stone type, for example, I found the DMT stones to be a bit quicker and less fuss to mess with, so if I had to pick one, I'd go with the Aligner. They all have similiar limitations in knife size and ability. You're probably not going to want to do an Outcast on a Lansky (or any of them)... not saying you can't, but you'll have some issues, and it will take time... a lot if you have to do any reprofiling. If you want better results in less time, and the ability to handle a wider variety of knives, and still stay with a guided system, than I'd look at a better class of sharpeners like the Wicked Edge or Edge Pro. Better results, more capable, less time, and the ability to handle a wider variety of knives.

cbw
 
cbwx34 said:
In this "class" of sharpeners, they're all about the same. They're decent quality for what you get, and will produce similar results.
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This is a very accurate statement. Personally I like value for my dollar. I think the GATCO provides a great product for the least money in it's class.

Personally I do not think the features designed into the KME are worth the extra coin.

They all work. They will all take a dull blade and put a sharp edge on it.


I use the GATCO for everything from smaller pocket knives up to 6.5, 8, and 10 inch kitchen cutlery.

I have a KME that they sent to me when one of these threads was going around. I wonder how they would feel about a pass around? I am surely not going to pass around my GATCO. I can't live without it.

Good Luck.
 
the Lansky is AWESOME for smaller to medium blades. after that, it's a true PITA. i will go as big as a 4.5" blade, with a Lansky. after that, i feel it's useless.

bite the bullet, buy the Apex, live happily ever after :)
 
zignal_zero said:
the Lansky is AWESOME for smaller to medium blades. after that, it's a true PITA. i will go as big as a 4.5" blade, with a Lansky. after that, i feel it's useless.

bite the bullet, buy the Apex, live happily ever after :)
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I haven't had a problem sharpening my 6.5" Nakiri, 8" Santuko, and 10" chef on the GATCO.

What kind of problems do you have?

The nice thing about larger blades is that they seem to have nice surfaces for clamping.
 
I have both Lansky and GATCO systems. In fact, I just purchased a new Lansky diamond kit, to replace my previous 'Deluxe' kit (w/standard hones, which I've pretty much worn out).

The Lansky and GATCO will generally give similar, quality results, so long as care is taken to correctly set up the clamp on the blade. Don't rush this part of the setup, it'll make the rest of the job much easier. Pay attention to how the clamping surfaces mate with the blade sides (they should be flush to the blade; seems obvious, but many have had problems with this). Check and double-check for slippage of the blade in the clamp (don't want it to move while you're sharpening). Putting masking tape on the blade, under the clamp, can help to provide more 'grip'.

The GATCO's hones are larger (wider) than the Lansky's. For me, this makes the GATCO preferable for larger blades, like kitchen knives. Conversely, I've come to prefer using the Lansky for almost all of my folding knives and other smaller blades. Their narrower width is better suited to following the curve of a smaller blade's edge (especially recurves). The smaller hones also make it easier to focus on a small section of a blade, like the tip.

As mentioned previously, the Lansky (& other clamp systems) work well for establishing new bevels, after which other, less complicated means can be used to maintain the new bevel. This is what I've done with most of my knives. Set the new bevel with the clamp system, and then I do almost all touch-ups with stropping and occasionally some light passes on a ceramic stone.
 
Hard H2O said:
I haven't had a problem sharpening my 6.5" Nakiri, 8" Santuko, and 10" chef on the GATCO.

What kind of problems do you have?

The nice thing about larger blades is that they seem to have nice surfaces for clamping.
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when the stone to steel contact spot gets further and further from the clamp, the angle becomes more and more acute. so, the bevel ends up significantly wider near the tip of the knife. i've had sharpening attempts (with the Lansky on larger knives) end poorly.
 
I like Lansky stones, but I hate the clamp. After using it a few times I felt like I could do a better job free-handing the stones. I'm willing to bet that you could to. So why do I like the stones? They are easy to hold on to. I've used them on large and small blades. The clamp will hold about any blade, but do yourself a favor, get a cheap knife to practice on and loose the "training wheels."
 
zignal_zero said:
when the stone to steel contact spot gets further and further from the clamp, the angle becomes more and more acute. so, the bevel ends up significantly wider near the tip of the knife. i've had sharpening attempts (with the Lansky on larger knives) end poorly.
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So would you be better off to move the blade as you sharpen to keep your angle more consistant. I'm new and just got a lansky kit "diamond stones" and starting with some kitchen knives.
 
laktrash said:
So would you be better off to move the blade as you sharpen to keep your angle more consistant. I'm new and just got a lansky kit "diamond stones" and starting with some kitchen knives.
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With larger blades (like an 8" kitchen knife, for instance), you can mount the clamp in an area closer to the center (lengthwise) of the blade. In fact, this is what's recommended in the Lansky's instructions for mounting the clamp. If you're concerned about the bevel being too wide at the tip, putting the clamp closer to the middle of the blade (instead of at or near the tang) would alleviate that for the most part. As long as the clamp is mounted within 4" or so of all of the blade's edge (to the tip, center, and tang area), the bevel width isn't going to vary significantly enough to be an issue (unless you're EXTREMELY picky about that sort of thing ;)).

I've gotten in the habit of using a ruler or tape measure to check the distance from several areas of the blade edge, to the point at the back of the clamp where the guide rod will ride. Use those measurements to find an optimum placement for the clamp on larger blades. Pick one place to mount the clamp, and you shouldn't have to move it again.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
With larger blades (like an 8" kitchen knife, for instance), you can mount the clamp in an area closer to the center (lengthwise) of the blade. In fact, this is what's recommended in the Lansky's instructions for mounting the clamp. If you're concerned about the bevel being too wide at the tip, putting the clamp closer to the middle of the blade (instead of at or near the tang) would alleviate that for the most part. As long as the clamp is mounted within 4" or so of all of the blade's edge (to the tip, center, and tang area), the bevel width isn't going to vary significantly enough to be an issue (unless you're EXTREMELY picky about that sort of thing ;)).

I've gotten in the habit of using a ruler or tape measure to check the distance from several areas of the blade edge, to the point at the back of the clamp where the guide rod will ride. Use those measurements to find an optimum placement for the clamp on larger blades. Pick one place to mount the clamp, and you shouldn't have to move it again.
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if this works, for others, that's awesome. it has not been my experience, though. i was working on a knife with only a 6 1/2" blade and had the clamp close to the center. the bevel got VERY acute at the tip.

maybe some people can use a Lansky, for larger knives. i've been using one, for about 11 years and still think they're no good for a blade over 4 1/2" long and that's with the clamp in the center of the length. my Nimravus is the biggest knife i'll put on a Lansky. i've tried it, several times, it's never gone well. i really like Lanky sharpeners.... just not for longer blades.
 
With the GATCO I clamp once on even larger blades. I regularly sharpen a 10" chefs, 8" santuko and a 6.5" nakiri on the GATCO.

The difference in angle is almost indetectable and does not make any difference in use.
 
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