Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System gonna work?

Z

Zakk Wylde

Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
165
hi folks;
finally i got my para2 and even its still a razor im thinking about wt* im gonna do when it gets dull:D im not a retard on freehand but dont have enough stones so im gonna buy a sharpening system.
lansky deluxe(not the diamond) looks very nice actually but the grits seems little bit low to me.
Extra Coarse (70 grit), Coarse (120 grit), Medium (280 grit), Fine (600 grit) Alumina Oxide Hones and an Extra Fine Ceramic (1000 grit) Hone its says.good for reprofiling but 1000 is enough for mirror polishing or even for making a fine edge?
it jumpes from 600 to 1000.i can buy 2000 grit sapphire stone but its 20 $.
and last im gonna sharpen endura4,para2,tenacious,cs srk,cs recon 1 and kinda this range.not sth super duper steel.
 
The 'Deluxe' kit is exactly the one I started with. I'd highly recommend getting a Extra-coarse or coarse diamond hone to supplement your kit. Really makes a big difference, if you ever re-profile S30V, D2 and similar abrasion-resistant steels.

If you use the other intermediate hones in your kit to their best, the 600 and 1000 ceramic hones will get you very close to a mirror. More so, the more you refine & reduce the scratches from the previous hones. You can accomplish that by using the same hones at progressively lighter pressure. Get the apex & burr from the first (coarsest) hone, then focus on cleaning up the scratches with each of the following hones. By the time you reach the 600 ceramic, you should begin to see some reflection in the bevel, perhaps a bit hazy. The UF (1000) hone will take that further. I've also had good results & better finish by lubing the hones a bit with water (water & a drop or two of dish soap works well also).
 
thanks for reply.the para2's profile is very nice so im not thinking to reprofile it and i dont let my knifes get too dull.so ur saying uf stone is gonna make a mirror polish if i do correctly.my wallet is happy david:D
 
Its a good kit you wont get mirror Polish but if you do your part it'll pop hairs by time your done with the extra fine. I had this kit I upgraded to the diamonds, which I would recommend. I'd also seggest the sapphire hone. I also took a piece of strop leather and super glued it to my old course stone and then loaded it with green compound. If work my way stone by stone all the way up to the strop I have an amazingly sharp edge. Its not mirrors but its far beyond the sharpness me or anyone else actually needs. Hope this helps. If you have any more questions let me know and ill try to answer them

I see obsessed chimed in. Listen to him when it comes to sharpening. The guys knows his stuff. I Learnd alot of the finer points reading his post.
 
You should be OK then. I wore out a coarse & medium hone from my Deluxe kit, trying to put a much more acute bevel on a ZT-0350 (S30V). A LOT of metal had to come off for that job. The hones aren't flat anymore. That's where a XC/Coarse diamond hone would've really made a difference, if I'd had one.

As I mentioned, a mirror is easier to do if you make best use of a succession of grits. I don't know what the existing factory finish is on your Para2, but I'm thinking that the Medium through finest hones (maybe even start lightly with the coarse standard hone) might help knock down the grind marks from the factory, to a level where the 600 & 1000 hones can bring out a good shine. Those two can get it pretty close, but it will take a very long time to knock down any significant factory grind marks, if they're used alone. Conversely, doing as much of the grunt work with the previous hones will make the finishing/polishing go a LOT quicker.
 
i know i love to read his stuff.
mirror is kinda unneccesarry for me too but it looks cool u know:p
and do you have any experience with little opinel sharpening stone?its my finest stone right now and i dont know the grit of it.so cant judge the grits without touching them.
looks like everyone is happy with lansky.im gonna place my order.
thanks...
ops didnt saw the davids new post.lol im sure u spend much time on that zt.sure im gonna buy the diamonds before some serious work i dont wanna wear out my stones :D
im gonna ask more questions when i get the system :D
 
Zakk Wylde said:
ops didnt saw the davids new post.lol im sure u spend much time on that zt.sure im gonna buy the diamonds before some serious work i dont wanna wear out my stones :D
im gonna ask more questions when i get the system :D
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That ZT was the best sharpening lesson I ever had. I'd heard all about 'abrasion resistance' in S30V, but didn't fully understand what it meant, until I dove into that project. Wearing out two of my hones in the process was very well worth the lessons learned. :D
 
haha abrasion resistance is a right word for that :D
also i got a problem now;
i try to cut some scotch brite pad(bad idea) with my byrd meadowlark(8cr13mov) and i have some small chips that i cant see.i can say this cus i sharpen it,it shaves hair but cant slice paper.it rips at some places.but i cant see the nicks or chips on the blade they are like micro serrations.but cant slice paper is really pissed me off:D what should i do?hope lasnky can be helpful in this situation (i also make a convex edge on it while sharpening it)it was my first time and cant hold the steady angel so theres no shoulders in edge .hope i can explain dont know the right term^^
 
Zakk Wylde said:
what should i do?hope lasnky can be helpful in this situation (i also make a convex edge on it while sharpening it)it was my first time and cant hold the steady angel so theres no shoulders in edge .hope i can explain dont know the right term^^
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Grinding off the shoulders won't hurt the edge, but doing it unintentionally might signal a bigger problem. I highly advise getting a Sharpie or other permanent black marker and making a line along your edge bevels (where you'll be grinding). Check to see how the mark is being worn away by the stone and adjust your blade angle accordingly.
 
Zakk Wylde said:
haha abrasion resistance is a right word for that :D
also i got a problem now;
i try to cut some scotch brite pad(bad idea) with my byrd meadowlark(8cr13mov) and i have some small chips that i cant see.i can say this cus i sharpen it,it shaves hair but cant slice paper.it rips at some places.but i cant see the nicks or chips on the blade they are like micro serrations.but cant slice paper is really pissed me off:D what should i do?hope lasnky can be helpful in this situation (i also make a convex edge on it while sharpening it)it was my first time and cant hold the steady angel so theres no shoulders in edge .hope i can explain dont know the right term^^
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Your Lansky will help. As HH mentioned above, it's all about angle control. Using a Sharpie is a good idea too, even with the Lansky. It'll show you when you've reached the apex of the edge. I'd also highly recommend a good magnifier, used with BRIGHT LIGHT. 10X or better should do for that.

The abrasive in the ScotchBrite pads is the same stuff of which ceramic hones are made (aluminum oxide). That'll definitely dull a blade. Don't worry about it. It's fixable. That knife might be your first good candidate for reprofiling with the Lansky. That steel shouldn't be too much of an issue for it. :)
 
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wow same stuff with sharpening stones:D and apex means the very very edge of the edge:D i think ,im wrong?
yeah with this im gonna learn sth with it.
thanks so much....
 
Zakk Wylde said:
wow same stuff with sharpening stones:D and apex means the very very edge of the edge:D i think ,im wrong?
yeah with this im gonna learn sth with it.
thanks so much....
Click to expand...

Yes, apex refers to that point where the two bevels meet, past which the burr will begin to form. That's what I believe to be the single most important aspect to sharpening any blade. Too many edges fall somewhat short of that, even factory edges. That's why I recommend using a magnifier, to look for it. It's too easy to stop just a tiny bit shy of the apex, and it makes a big difference in how sharp the edge will be.
 
I've bought most all of the sharpening systems out there. They are dust collectors since coming to this forum site and talking with Virtuovice in Japan. I currently use homemade
sanding mats made from 1" thick floor mats discarded from work that have wet/dry paper tacked on using doublestick tape. I work up 'til I get to 2000 grit then use my strop. Also, the strop is moved across the blade instead of blade across the strop like most people.This works best for me and I can go all the way to mirror polished edges if I want using
Bark River green.

SEMPER FI TIL I DIE
 
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