Lansky Deluxe System

Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
633
I just ordered a Lansky Deluxe System. Is there anything I should know before I put it to work; anything you have found that I should be aware of?
 
Well, the main thing is make sure the angle matches your blades edge, use the magic marker to check it. If you are sharpening a small knife use the small indentions on the clamp to hold the blade. Make sure the guide rods are lined up with the base of the stone holder.
KC
 
When I was using the Lansky system I always took a new set of hones and clamped in the guide rods. Next I layed them on a flat surface like a counter top. I would make sure each hone/rod layed flat and slightly bend each rod to get a perfectly flat profile from the front edge of the hone to the end of the rod. Getting all the hone/rod the same makes sure you are getting each hone to hit the blade at the same angle as the others.
 
Tighten the rods only snug enough to hold them. You may have to re-tighten as you go, but that will avoid cracking the plastic stone holder.

Avoid using too much oil. Over time it will cause the glue that holds the stones to weaken. Not too large a problem, just superglue it back, but annoying none the less.

These, in my opinion, are the weaknesses of the Lansky system.
 
Well, the main thing is make sure the angle matches your blades edge, use the magic marker to check it. KC

You don't have to. This is the main reason I use the Lansky, to re-profile my blades to what I want. Then all of my knives are consistent angles. I've found that the 20* works well and then the Sharpmaker puts the final polish that makes it hair popping.
 
what all of the above said

+
when you're out of oil, just use extra vierge olive oil instead. Works great on all the Lansky stones.
 
My advice is to realize the limitation the best you can...before you get frustrated. If the it's a decent sized blade and you're using the 20* guide. The "flat" or belly of the blade may be right on...but as you move to the tip the angle will lessen and become more acute. I actually happen to like it now, having a finer point is nice for my EDCs...but dang if frustrated me to no end until I made piece with it and just planned on spending the time to "lansky profile" my blades.

Don't get distracted...you can slice your fingertips pretty good.

Any ole oil does fine.

I use the "small indentions" on every knife.

Remember "where" on the spine you sharpen each knife. It'll make it easier to match the new "lansky profile" when it's time to rework the blade or give a few touch up strokes

Micro-bevels are your friend and are a breeze on lansky-type systems...exploit this feature

Adjust the clamps so that they are almost parallel when fully tightened. You get better grip this way then you try to do an extreme pinch on. Also, it makes it easy reproduce the exact angle and the "lansky profile" I've been talking about.

AND LAST AND MOST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IT WILL mar your spines...no matter how careful you are! If you have safe-queens or collectors take a piece of paper and fold over the spine before you clamp down


Are you sorry you asked yet?
 
CAUTION: Don't use any "food" oils. They will go rancid. Use 3in1 oil, mineral oil, etc. or your favorite honing oil.
 
CAUTION: Don't use any "food" oils. They will go rancid. Use 3in1 oil, mineral oil, etc. or your favorite honing oil.

Just wipe things clean after sharpening, and you'll be fine.
I still use the oildispenser that came with the set originaly, and it does a marvellous job in keeping the extra vierge olive oil in a great shape..
No problemo!
 
If you have the diamond hones, use light pressure so the
diamonds aren't pulled out of the base material.

I sometimes use a shoelace to hold the rod to one side of the
slot in the angle guide, for more consistent positioning.

Tighten the clamp gradually and check the blade is straight in the clamp.



peace
 
Back
Top