Lansky Deluxe vs Spydie Sharpmaker.

Joined
May 19, 2002
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I have been loving my 204 and it gives a great edge, when I can get the angles right. Yep, I'm not very stable when it comes to using my Sharpmaker. So I have started looking at getting a locked angle sharpener to prevent me from bungling the job.

But will the Lansky 5 stone deluxe kit give as sharp an edge as the 204? It comes with an "Ultra Fine" stone but how fine is it? I have wanted to get atleast 1 of my knives truely "shave a sleeping mouse sharp" for a while. Will the lansky get me on the way to SASM sharp blades? or is the 204 and a whole bunch of practice the way to go?

Thanks a bunch for any help you can give.





p.s. How fine are the new Spyderco Sharpmaker ultra fine stones that I have seen offered as accesories? And will they do better than the lansky?
 
I bought a regular lansky, and added a 1000 and 2000 grit stone. With the 1000 grit stone, I get my favorite edge...shaves comfortably, but still slices well. Usually, I only use the 2000 grit stone to deburr, but an edge actually finished with the 2000 grit stone...well, ask my BM 943. It pops the hairs right off my arm, with NO resistance at all.

So, for most applications the 1000 grit is plenty. 2000 grit will get you the super-sharpness you seem to be after, but I find that it's just not as useful a finish.

BTW, I really like my Lansky setup, I can reprofile D2 blades very, very quickly...did all three blades on my Queen D2 stockman in just about 1 hour (reprofiling, sharpening to 1000 grit)
 
ERINT, if you want to save some money....

keep your sharpmaker set up. no need to buy the ultrafine stones. what you need is a strop and compound. I believe knivesplus carries pretty good and cheap strops. Add some compound (like leevalley's green compound) and some SEARS rouge and you'll have yourself a hair popping edge.

what you may also consider is whether your edge bevels match the sharpmaker's 15 and 20 deg bevels. If they don't, you'll need to reprofile - just buy a cheap coarse stone/medium stone and reprofile freehand. Heck, you can even push your bevels down to 15-20 degrees included if the steel is tough enough. Then strop to polish it a bit, set the actual cutting edge bevel using the sharpmaker, then strop again like crazy.

do a search and read "fulloflead"'s "I'm a sharpening kung fu master" post. It'll be an inspiration ;)
 
On the Lanksy, how fast will the stones wear? (Planning on getting one, just for reprofiling purposes)
 
ErinT I have had the Lansky setup for 9 years now and love it. It will get your knives every bit as sharp as the Sharpmaker, I own one of those as well. With the clamps systems they are a little more time consuming but you get real consistency in the angle. Which I am a little too shaky too reprofile with the Sharpmaker or a bench stone so it works out great for me.

A couple of tips on using the Lansky system I learned the hard way. Put tape, I use 3M packing tape as it doesn't leave any glue residue, over the blade where the clamp will be going to prevent the blade from being scratched. This is of course especially true with coated blades and even then if you clamp them tight it will still sometimes scratch or moosh the coating.

Next tip, using a up and down and back and forth motion with the stones instead of the sharpmaker style just front to back. If I remember correctly the instructions used to say something to this affect but I don't recall. I have found lots of this to cut alot faster but with the fine stones the finish will not appear as consistent but stropping cures all that. Also when reprofiling do not just sharpen one side until you get a burr as this will produce a semi chisel edge, by that I mean the edge you sharpened first until you got a burr will be wider than the other side. The directions say something about going some number of strokes on each side but I don't remember.

I always use diamond stones to reprofile edges as they cut so much faster and I go about ten strokes each side. With the extra coarse diamond stones this does not take that much extra time and the edge looks better, but I am a perfectionist. Once the edge angle is set with the diamond stones I just sharpen til you get a burr with the other stones on each side.

I sharpen my smaller knives to 600 grit then strop them on a leather belt I bought at Wal-Mart with flitz and Sears rouge as recommended above. For me this produces a toothier edge which slices very well for me, I have tried the ultra fine stones (1200 grit) and they just get too smooth for me. This is of coarse my own preferrence but I do recommend you try it as I think I have tried about every edge finish I could think of.

Now with the large chopping blades I sharpen them with the ultra fine stones and then strop them to a high polish, just as Jerry Hossom recommends, and also have had great results espcecially with simple carbon steels like INFI, A2, 50100, etc. S30V when used in a large blade also like this high polish, though when used in smaller knives I again like the coarser edge for S30V.

Garageboy after 9 years of use I have gone through one set of diamond stones and I have to replace my medium grit stone finally as there is not enough left to flatten it back out anymore. So I would say they have held up amazingly well, far better than I would have thought for the price they cost.
 
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