Lansky for BK14?

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xxratchetxx

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Aug 27, 2013
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I have plenty of flat stones but my technique is rather sloppy. I would rather, at this point, go ahead and sharpen the BK14 and get a good/consistent edge edge and keep practicing my re-bevling technique on some of my "less cared for" knives.

This is where my question comes in... I have read mixed reviews on sharpening FFG knives on the lansky kit. Out of curiosity I placed the blade in the clamp and it hasnt done any wobbling like others have stated. Has anyone here had any good/bad experiences with the lansky and their BK14? Also how far back in the clamp should I seat the spine to keep the angle most consistent with what is marked in the guides (i have read that the actual sharpened angle is slightly more acute than the what the guides say)? And my final question... For an everyday user BK14 that wont be baton-ed through an M! abrams, what angle edge do most of you use?

As always, thanks for your input!
 
I've used Lansky's for years before I started convexing my blades. With the full flat grind, you just have to make sure that both side of the clamp are flush on both sides of the blade.
If your blade is stripped, then you may want to put a pice of masking tape on the part of the blade where the clamp touches to keep it from sliding and also scratching your blade.
 
I left the coating since I kind of like it for now. Any tips for making sure the clamp is perfectly flush and how that would affect the ? Also, what angle guide did you use sharpen yours? I want to make sure I don't wreck the edge and turn it into a low scandi grind.

As always, thanks for the help!
 
To keep the knife at a neutral angle, just push the spine against the back of the slot in the jaws as you tighten them. I postioned the clamp as close to the drop as possible while still hitting the straight part of the spine. For factory performance(durable and tough), sharpen at 20 deg.

I did once sharpen my bk-14 to 17 degrees on the lansky and then convex it, and refine it to 2500 grit before stropping... took five-ever to do and looked a little silly; but it must've been nice. I had to guard it last gathering and my dad decided he needed it pretty soon after that, LoL.

Also, never move up in grit until the blade is as sharp as you want it to be and free of any detectable burr. Then good results should be had. Use the sharpie test to check the angle. That'll prevent that scandi-esque scenario.
 
I'm learning a few things here.
I never had great results with my Lansky so I gave it away.
Probably just poor technique on my part.
I can sharpen on a stone. I get amazing results from the Sharpmaker. But the Lansky always gave me fits! Lol
 
There are a lot of threads on the Lansky systems and I have to say with a little technique and adaptation it has always given me good results. Nowhere near the super polished edges one would get from a Wicked Edge and such or even a well applied benchstone technique.

However one can get seriously sharp edges (both smooth and sticky) if done right. My 14 takes a nasty sharp edge and keeps it for a good length of time.
 
I used one for years, they work to some extent.

You have to really have your technique down to reproduce the same angle everytime.

I'm a firm believer in guide systems though. Symetry=sharp.

Practice on a cheap blade first to find your weaknesses, correct them and then dig in.

Just an fyi, there are better guide systems out there, but they do cost more moola.

Good luck and post up your results.

Moose
 
I use my Lansky primarily to remove metal fast. Then I use the Sharp Maker once a decent edge and or angle is established, or re-established. I have had good and moderate results with the Lansky as I am only a moderately skilled knife sharpener. It is usually a dice roll that I will find my edges a little off of each other when both sides are compared, with the Lansky. But between the two systems I can get my knives to smoothly slice paper, and that's all I want.
 
Biggest thing is to make sure the rods and the stone are completely flat. Set them on a flat surface when attaching them and make sure they are perfectly straight.

As far as the angle, just try to match the current one or decide if you want it a little more or a little less. You can move the clamp forward or backwards to adjust the angle a little.

Also the sharpie trick is very good.

I really only use mine now to totally reprofile a blade or to get chips out of the edge. I have the regular stones as well as the diamond and ceramic ones. I can get a mirror edge with the finest one I have.

Like they said, I would recommend practicing on a cheap blade. And take your time. I used to spend hours with the system just practicing on old knives till I got the hang of it.
 
I have a Lansky that I hardly use anymore because I got tired of all the fiddly-ness of clamping, setting the stones in the rods, tightening all the bolts as they comes loose, etc. I got a WorkSharp hand sharpener (not the belt-sander device...tho I have one of those too). It's got two different grit diamond stones, a ceramic rod and a length of leather for stropping. The best thing is the built in guides. You can only do a 20 degree angle, but it helps build muscle memory and really has helped me improve my free hand sharpening technique. Plus, I can get my bk7 shaving sharp on the sucker.
 
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