Lansky frustrations.

B

Byeofcr

Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
15
Hello again all.
Well.. I been busy growing my collection and admiring my knives and realized im going to have to sharpen these eventually so i researched and researched and decided on the lansky system. I was interested in trying it out so i went and bought the deluxe kit and even a few cheapo knives to practice on (like $3 each from a flea market cheap). Now i know for the higher end stuff, im going to pick up a set of diamond hones but just wanted to try it out. I did even more research on tricks and tips (i.e. Replacing the thumb screws etc etc)
So i got mixed feelings in it.
1. I clamp my blades so that the gap in the clamp is level, but the clamp rocks alot on the Lansky stand. Is this normal? Seems like excessive play to me?
2. I hold the rods up against the angle holes with my finger as suggested so the angle stays consistent. But even working the blade, getting a burr and flipping.. It seems as if the edge has "holograms" for lack of a better word, on it. Almost like high and low spots on the blade, the grind marks arent uniform. Does this mean i need to restart w a coarser hone? Too little pressure? To much pressure?

My buddy gave me his old s&w folder. I got the edge shaving sharp w 20 deg. Angle but it just didnt look very uniform.. Again this is all practice before i want to try on my good blades. I used a sharpie and wemt to work. I Have OCD so its bugging me lol also i know that stropping a not ready to be stropped blade is useless but it seems even as if after the saphire stone it feels really sharp.. Or sometimes it feels duller after..

I just want to know where im going wrong besides my own lack of practice.. I want to do it the right way before i teach myself the wrong way.
Thanks in advance
 
Those systems simply have too much play in them to get a nice looking bevel. I have a gatco system that a travel with on occasion that does the same thing. It'll get the knife hair whittling sharp, but the bevel shows slight variances in angle throughout.

If you want easy, consistent angles I'd look at a KME system. A bit more pricey, still loads cheaper than a wicked edge, but will get better results. I've also heard great things about their products and customer service. I can't say the same for my wicked edge... Fantastic system, but I've had problems with quality control and customer service. They have worked to redeem themselves at least.
 
Just a few quick points that might help.

Make sure that the blade does not wiggle in the clamp, it should be clamped rock solid without any play. How it should be clamped depends on the type of clamp as well as the shape of the blade.

Hold the stone close to the point where the rod is attached. This way you will apply even force which keeps the stone and the rod in constant contact with the blade and the clamp and there will be no need to hold the rods up against the angle holes with your finger.

Use a rubbing motion and light pressure while keeping the stone in contact with the blade. Let the stone do the work.

With the first stone that you use, keep grinding on both sides until you can feel a burr forming along the entire edge. This will tell you that you have reached the apex. Keep checking your progress and use a loupe. Once you have raised a burr with the coarse stones, there is no need to do so with the finer stones as with these you are only refining your edge.

Many tips, problems and solutions for the Lansky have been discussed before, here are a few threads:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1299587-sharpening-technique-for-EDC-newbie
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1344914-Best-Sharpener-for-Small-Knives

The play in the Lansky stand is normal and personally I don't like it. Here is a video that shows how I use the Lansky.
The video is of course boring as hell and I do not claim that my way is the best way to use the system but this is how I have been using it for over 30 years and it works very well for me.

[video=youtube;B52lFL0PzoE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B52lFL0PzoE[/video]

And here is a video from an Australian knife maker, he does use the stand.

[video=youtube;ZlI5PaXsfOk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlI5PaXsfOk&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
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I hold the clamp with my hand and stabilize the rod with my finger. Make sure you use each stone with even strokes along the blade. The holograms you see are because you are not spending enough time with the coarse and medium stone. Don't move on from the medium stone until you have a smooth edge. The main problem with a sharpening system is when a knife is sharpened for the first time on the system the blade needs a complete reprofiling. Should take about 30-40 minutes.
 
Clamp on the solid part of the jaw instead of the rubber. Hold the knife in one hand and the stone in the other when grinding instead of the clamp. This way you get negligible flex. The holograms aren't high and low spots or changing bevel angles. It's caused by difference in scratch pattern directions on different part of the bevel. Doesn't affect performance. If you want a uniform looking bevel surface always grind in one direction like 10% from perpendicular to the blade edge. Move the clamp along the blade as needed. Play in the slots is negligible. Use to and fro motions in the beginning when shaping and light pressure edge leading strokes at the end when finishing and deburring. You will get a very sharp knife.
 
ATwistedStaple said:
Those systems simply have too much play in them to get a nice looking bevel. I have a gatco system that a travel with on occasion that does the same thing. It'll get the knife hair whittling sharp, but the bevel shows slight variances in angle throughout.

If you want easy, consistent angles I'd look at a KME system. A bit more pricey, still loads cheaper than a wicked edge, but will get better results. I've also heard great things about their products and customer service. I can't say the same for my wicked edge... Fantastic system, but I've had problems with quality control and customer service. They have worked to redeem themselves at least.
Click to expand...

I agree with the KME, I had a DMT and really didn't like a lot of things about it including the fixed angles so I scrapped it and went with a KME with infinite angle adjustment between 17 and 30 degrees, (actually you can get a lot lower by turning the rod guide upside down). I've made a couple of changes to mine in order to use my DMT Aligner hones, I really like those and added a piece of steel to the top of the stone holder (got the idea from this forum to hold my angle cube, a really good sharpening system and the minor changes I made make it a great one. I looked at the lansky but decided that it just wouldn't work for me. For me KME resolved all of the problems that I saw in the DMT and Lansky systems and resolved them.
Here is my end result after changes:

xXPwQiol.jpg
 
I agree with MikeMyers I used to use the crap out of my lansky and it takes the time to get used to it but one you do and especially if you do what Mike said you will have a sharp knife and a really decent looking bevel. Make sure you have your scratch pattern minimized as much possible before moving to the ceramics.
 
I have seen some of the same with my Lansky, but I am more than happy with the results after stropping with some green compound. It may not be a perfect mirror edge, but close enough for me. I don't sharpen often enough to spend on a KME kit. I like the fact the angle is held more consistent, but not work the investment yet.
 
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