Lansky how to get them even sharper

[Thenoob]

Hello guys i asked you some questions before, now i know what i needed.
But i was wondering can i get my knives even sharper ? Don't get me wrong they are sharp but i want to know how sharp they can get, i don't have a strop yet nor compound for it, will it make big difference? Because i see videos with much sharper knives i just want to improve! Is it something about technique of the systems have some kind of limits? Also if thats true is it worth it to upgrade to a better system for normal consumer like me? Thanks in advance!

 

[Thenoob]

I know with practice i will get better, i just don't know what to do. i mean i already get my knives nice, polished and sharp but how do i improve when i do the same thing over and over again?

 

[katanas]

Yes, a strop makes a BIG difference. It also makes touch up easier by far, I also recommend hones (I use EZE Lap). Also, an often overlooked helper is various grades of sandpaper with a small wood block to wrap it around. Member marcinek is often helpful with links to previous related threads.

 

[Ajack60]

Lansky offers a ultra fine and sapphire ceramic stone and a leather strop for the system. If you don't have them and like the Lansky, get them. It will aide in getting your knives as sharp as you can. I've used the Lansky forever and have grown accustomed to the narrow stones. The KME has wider stones and offer a better selection of angles to use. Most of my knives fit the angles Lansky offers and I use it more than the KME.

 

[Thenoob]

I will buy them! You said you used Lansky for a long time so how do you improve like results, technique etc.

 

[Thenoob]

Lansky offers a ultra fine and sapphire ceramic stone and a leather strop for the system. If you don't have them and like the Lansky, get them. It will aide in getting your knives as sharp as you can. I've used the Lansky forever and have grown accustomed to the narrow stones. The KME has wider stones and offer a better selection of angles to use. Most of my knives fit the angles Lansky offers and I use it more than the KME.

I will buy them! You said you used Lansky for a long time so how do you improve like results, technique etc.

 

[Lipripper]

Oh the lansky. It's still what I use primarily. First off, I will always reprofile my blades to the lowest angle I can. Ideally all the way to the apex, but anymore I don't worry too much about getting the edge super sharp at this point. After reprofiling it will make it much eaiser to hit the apex when moving up to a higher angle to form the micro bevel.
I'm not sure what you already know, but let me back up a little bit:
1. Before you use one of the hones lay it stoneside down on a flat surface and loosen the metal rod completely and tighten it as it sits. If the rod is not completely flat, I bend it either up or down and loosen it again and tighten it again until everything is laying flat. If you do this for each hone it will result is a much more consistent angle of sharpening.
2. While sharpening I always hold the clamp with my finger behind the slot pushing lightly upwards on the rod that is coming through this way the rod is tight against the top of slot and again sharpens at that same consistent angle (tip it helps to put a cloth or paper towel in between your finger and the rod)
3. I personally sharpen with the hones up and down along the whole edge until a burr starts to form and then I do several sweeping strokes along the whole length of the blade. Then I will form a burr from the other side the same way .. Then I start do say 30 sweeping strokes on one side and then the other... And keep going back and forth with less stokes each time.. With practice you can start to feel how many strokes a side needs when the stone just starts to feel fluid and glide across the blade... This step is the most important for the last hone, but should be done for each.
4. The last hone or last couple .. To make sure that the finest hone is absolutely hitting the entire apex you can tighten you lansky clamp a little before you start on the last hone... Or unclamp and move your blade further back in the clamp just a tiny bit. Then I do the sweeping strokes on each side.. Starting with a lot on one side then getting less and less until it feels super slick on both sides ....then I strop a little bit and it is usually good to go! Shaving sharp ... Sure I forgot something, but I hope that helps. Don't hesitate to ask questions.

Edit : I will blame the typos on mobile spellcheck... But beers could be a factor also.

 

[Ajack60]

I will buy them! You said you used Lansky for a long time so how do you improve like results, technique etc.

I've learned to hold a firm grip on the rod and not let it drift, either all the way on the top or bottom. It will make a degree or two difference if you let it drift from top to bottom. Make sure the clamp is holding the knife straight and not leaning to one side. Likewise, be aware of the pressure you are putting on the blade. It can lean if too much pressure is applied resulting in an uneven bevel. I tape the blade to give the clamp a little more grip. I like to be as close to the center of the blade with the clamp. And try to place the clamp in the same position(depth) each time with each knife, make sure the blade edge is parallel to the clamp and not the spine of the blade. That's all I got, I look at it like this, before moving on to the next level of sharpening system, master the one you have. Maybe that's why some folks sell off those high dollar ones.

 

[Lapedog]

I will buy them! You said you used Lansky for a long time so how do you improve like results, technique etc.

A major helper to getting sharper edges is to not put oressure on the stones as you use them. Especially at the higher grits and when you’re finishing. Let the grit of the stones do the work.

 

[sharp_edge]

Watch out FFG knives as its difficult to make the clamp have full contact on both sides while setting meaningful sharpening agles. It is not a problem for blades with a flat portion on both sides that are parallel to each other. Also as said above, do not put too much pressure on as the rod is flex. Patience is the key.

 

[Thenoob]

Oh the lansky. It's still what I use primarily. First off, I will always reprofile my blades to the lowest angle I can. Ideally all the way to the apex, but anymore I don't worry too much about getting the edge super sharp at this point. After reprofiling it will make it much eaiser to hit the apex when moving up to a higher angle to form the micro bevel.
I'm not sure what you already know, but let me back up a little bit:
1. Before you use one of the hones lay it stoneside down on a flat surface and loosen the metal rod completely and tighten it as it sits. If the rod is not completely flat, I bend it either up or down and loosen it again and tighten it again until everything is laying flat. If you do this for each hone it will result is a much more consistent angle of sharpening.
2. While sharpening I always hold the clamp with my finger behind the slot pushing lightly upwards on the rod that is coming through this way the rod is tight against the top of slot and again sharpens at that same consistent angle (tip it helps to put a cloth or paper towel in between your finger and the rod)
3. I personally sharpen with the hones up and down along the whole edge until a burr starts to form and then I do several sweeping strokes along the whole length of the blade. Then I will form a burr from the other side the same way .. Then I start do say 30 sweeping strokes on one side and then the other... And keep going back and forth with less stokes each time.. With practice you can start to feel how many strokes a side needs when the stone just starts to feel fluid and glide across the blade... This step is the most important for the last hone, but should be done for each.
4. The last hone or last couple .. To make sure that the finest hone is absolutely hitting the entire apex you can tighten you lansky clamp a little before you start on the last hone... Or unclamp and move your blade further back in the clamp just a tiny bit. Then I do the sweeping strokes on each side.. Starting with a lot on one side then getting less and less until it feels super slick on both sides ....then I strop a little bit and it is usually good to go! Shaving sharp ... Sure I forgot something, but I hope that helps. Don't hesitate to ask questions.

Edit : I will blame the typos on mobile spellcheck... But beers could be a factor also.

I am new to this but i have watched many videos and i do everything that you said above! I just don't make microbevels i don't understand them. Let me tell you my process. You tell me if i do everything right?
1.Same as you!
2. Same as you! '' when i clamp the blade edge is 1.5cm of the clamp eveytime i also for bigger blades i clamp twice 2fingers away from the place i have sharpened.
3. I sharpen horizontaly with upward motion(use the whole stone) and count strokes till i get burr: (reprofiling/ knifes 1st time on the lansky)for example i count 150strokes to get burr for 1st side and when i flip the blade over i do the same number of strokes. Before i had some knives with off centered apex, now i count!
4. After every STONE i run the blade thru a piece of wood to minimize burr and also sharpen 10-5 per side with no pressure just the weight of the stone to get the burr off before i go to the next stone
5. I do this with everyone of the stones! My strokes after the coarse 120grit with the 280/600/1000 on everyone of them i count the strokes that take to get the last stone scraches and repeat on the other side.
I DON'T own a strop and i don't own the 2000grit stone should i buy them? What i do wrong and why is microbevel a good idea if it is ? Also my knives are shaving sharp aswell but i have seen sharper knives i just want to get to the limit thats all! Thank you.

 

[Ajack60]

Unless you have the same steel at the same heat treat hardness in all your knives, each knife will react differently to a sharpening. With today’s steels, it’s good to know what you’re sharpening. If one knife gets extremely sharp, that doesn’t mean another knife will get as sharp doing the same thing. Some steels take more time to get the optimum sharp edge.
A micro bevel is no more than taking your finished edge and strengthening it up. If you’re sharpening at 17 degrees per side, the micro bevel happens when you go to 20 degrees per side with a few strokes.
I’ve had good luck with a leather strop, it will clean up the edge of any small burrs that may be missed with the stones. Usually, it only takes a few strokes to achieve complete burr removal

 

[Lipripper]

I am new to this but i have watched many videos and i do everything that you said above! I just don't make microbevels i don't understand them. Let me tell you my process. You tell me if i do everything right?
1.Same as you!
2. Same as you! '' when i clamp the blade edge is 1.5cm of the clamp eveytime i also for bigger blades i clamp twice 2fingers away from the place i have sharpened.
3. I sharpen horizontaly with upward motion(use the whole stone) and count strokes till i get burr: (reprofiling/ knifes 1st time on the lansky)for example i count 150strokes to get burr for 1st side and when i flip the blade over i do the same number of strokes. Before i had some knives with off centered apex, now i count!
4. After every STONE i run the blade thru a piece of wood to minimize burr and also sharpen 10-5 per side with no pressure just the weight of the stone to get the burr off before i go to the next stone
5. I do this with everyone of the stones! My strokes after the coarse 120grit with the 280/600/1000 on everyone of them i count the strokes that take to get the last stone scraches and repeat on the other side.
I DON'T own a strop and i don't own the 2000grit stone should i buy them? What i do wrong and why is microbevel a good idea if it is ? Also my knives are shaving sharp aswell but i have seen sharper knives i just want to get to the limit thats all! Thank you.

I can understand your desire to get to hair whittling sharp, and there are many others on BF who are a better source than me to ask. (lots of good info in the maintenence embellishment, tinkering category btw).
For me and most others the microbevel just makes touch ups much easier. Even if your knife is situated in the clamp a bit different than last sharpen you still will be hitting the apex on the micro bevel much easier opposed to possibly hitting the shoulder when there isn't a micro.
I would say yes get the 2000 and strop... I've never used the lansky strop, so I'm not familiar with how it performs. I have ones that I've made.
If you are looking for a super mirror polish and hair whittling sharp edge I'm not so sure the lansky is going to be your best option. But with strops loaded with some diamond compounds is decreasing microns I'm sure you'd get there.

It's nice to have the ability to get to that razor of an edge, but IMO there are very few things in real world use that an edge that much sharper (from easy shaving to hair whittling) is going to help you with. Especially because deformation occurs so quick at the beginning of use. I actually stop at coarser grits more now than I used to. A good biting edge works well for me on a lot of my knives, but yes I understand the appeal and usefulness of a polished edge as well.

 

[Thenoob]

I can understand your desire to get to hair whittling sharp, and there are many others on BF who are a better source than me to ask. (lots of good info in the maintenence embellishment, tinkering category btw).
For me and most others the microbevel just makes touch ups much easier. Even if your knife is situated in the clamp a bit different than last sharpen you still will be hitting the apex on the micro bevel much easier opposed to possibly hitting the shoulder when there isn't a micro.
I would say yes get the 2000 and strop... I've never used the lansky strop, so I'm not familiar with how it performs. I have ones that I've made.
If you are looking for a super mirror polish and hair whittling sharp edge I'm not so sure the lansky is going to be your best option. But with strops loaded with some diamond compounds is decreasing microns I'm sure you'd get there.

It's nice to have the ability to get to that razor of an edge, but IMO there are very few things in real world use that an edge that much sharper (from easy shaving to hair whittling) is going to help you with. Especially because deformation occurs so quick at the beginning of use. I actually stop at coarser grits more now than I used to. A good biting edge works well for me on a lot of my knives, but yes I understand the appeal and usefulness of a polished edge as well.

I have knives for everything i do, every knife of mine has a task: chopping, skinnig, all around, edc etc. I just want the sharpness as an achievment so i know i can get a knife supersharp/know the limits aswell and for me it has an use slaughtering

 

[Andy the Aussie]

Patience is the key.

...this !!! I used a Lansky kit for years and it did just fine on my hunting (skinning/dressing and general task) knives. But it takes time and a consistent approach. Get comfortable and settle in to do the job, stop if you are becoming disinterested and come back to it !

 

[Thenoob]

...this !!! I used a Lansky kit for years and it did just fine on my hunting (skinning/dressing and general task) knives. But it takes time and a consistent approach. Get comfortable and settle in to do the job, stop if you are becoming disinterested and come back to it !

i like it alot actually i don't cut corners i do everything by the book you could say

 

[BruceMack]

I'm a noob too. I use my Lansky for initial edge preparation with medium and fine diamond stones followed by a few swipes on the conventional stones to smooth the bevels. By clamping the blade as close to the spine as I can, I often eke out bevels close to 15° using the Lansky 17° slot. For final edge prep, I go to the Sharpmaker medium and fine rods at 15° and follow this with stropping. Subsequent edge maintenance is with strop or Sharpmaker + strop, if needed. The Lansky is needed only for the first blade prep. If you don't nick the edge, it isn't needed for maintenance.