Thinking about getting a lansky system for re profiling and using my sharpmaker for touch up and general sharpening. I have the diamond stones for my sharpmaker but they are still slow. My question is, how far do you place the blade into the clamp? It seems to me like depending upon that and the set screws, you can change the angle youre trying to achieve. Also should it get the diamond or regular?
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Lansky question
- Thread starter Mike14_07
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How much of the blade that gets clamped depends on a few factors. For me it seems that every blade has a sweet spot where the clamp grips really good. Next, the clamp can only go on so far before the stone hits it. I use an app on my iphone to get a close idea of what angle im actually sharpening at.
I recommend the diamond stones. They cut a lot faster. I also purchased a ceramic and sapphire stone.
I recommend the diamond stones. They cut a lot faster. I also purchased a ceramic and sapphire stone.
You want to try to match the edge with the stone once it is in the holder so set the knife in the holder, use a black marker and take a stone and see where it hits. Once you do that you can adjust the clamp to where the edge is met or at least very close to it depending on the blades angle but you will get an idea. Also, once you get the set, you should note where you place it in the clamp, both depth wise and how far down from the handle so you can repeat it easier.
I think the Lansky for reprofiling and the Sharpmaker for touchups is all you need. I have this setup and if I had a strop, I wouldn't even use the Sharpmaker much.
I think the Lansky for reprofiling and the Sharpmaker for touchups is all you need. I have this setup and if I had a strop, I wouldn't even use the Sharpmaker much.
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Not necessarily useless just depends on thickness and width of the blade..the more a blade sticks out from the clamp the more the angle changes and so on. Use the clineometer app on your phone and lay it on the hone as it's resting on your edge and you will have the angle. Note that it also changes on longer blades too so you will need to adjust accordingly and yes that means moving the clamp
No, see what Megabassx7 states below. This is what I was trying to get across. It helps to find the "spot" in a matter of speaking where the stone hits best on the blade to begin with, unless you are re-profiling it to a lower angle to help maintain the angle it already has! It probably wont be exact as there is alot of chat about how the angle callouts on the Lansky as well as some others are not as stated. You can Google that for more info.
Also depending on the length of the blade, you might have to move the clamp to another position. Again, this goes by what was stated below with changing the angle of sharpening but it is not just width and thickness it is also length of blade.
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If you read the thread angles-on-clamp-style-devices... the same principle applies. The angle does not change because of the length of the blade, as long as it's straight. You can set a blade so that you can get a consistent angle along the entire length, within the limits of the device itself (for example, how long the length of the guide rod is). The proper way to set the blade is based on the curve toward the tip, not its length.
The angle does change based on how far in front of the clamp the blade is, but not along the length.
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Yes. If you want a specific angle, and/or for repeatability, the angle should be independently checked. You can use the markings on the device for consistency, but you won't necessarily be sharpening at the exact angle the device indicates.
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It depends on the device. The Wicked Edge angle markings are based on a knife that is 5/8" from the edge of the clamp. The Edge Pro is designed to set the knife just in front of the edge of the table. On some other guided devices, the angle is based on the edge of the clamp, so in reality, on any knife the angle will be "off"... the markings are basically for consistency.
Edit to add:
Here's an example... DMT publishes a guide for their device based on the knife's width... and the clamp itself just has numbers...
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It depends on the type of clamp that you have as well as the type of knife. If you have a clamp with the small notch than this would be the correct way to clamp a small pocket knife:
Here are two pictures with a standard Victorinox knife with a blade width of 1/2" one on the 17 degrees setting and the other one at the 20 degrees setting both work well without hitting the clamp.
Lansky 17 degrees by Frans van de Kamp, on Flickr
Lansky 20 degrees by Frans van de Kamp, on Flickr
BTW The angle settings on the Lansky clamp are just an indication and the actual angle will depend on how far the knife sticks out from the clamp. With this knife the actual sharpening angles are:
13.3 degrees on the 17 degrees setting
17.4 degrees on the 20 degrees setting
21.5 degrees on the 25 degrees setting
25.3 degrees on the 30 degrees setting
Here is a page from the Loray sharpener manual that describes how different types of knives should be clamped. The Lansky was copied from the Loray.
Frans
