Lansky Sharpeners?

D

Droppoints

Joined
Oct 10, 2003
Messages
52
I see Lansky Sharpeners in a lot of sporting goods stores and catalogs and the prices are attractive. However, they seem to have little respect on this forum.

Anything specifically wrong with them? I realize there are more sophisticated (and more expensive) sharpeners available but what's wrong with Lanskys?
 
I've got a Lansky w/ the diamond stones and I like it. I use a 1000 grit ceramic stone I purchased seperatly for it to finish off a blade to a razor sharp edge. I can get the edge of my knives sharp enough to pop hair off my arm. I also have a Spyderco Sharpmaker that I really like although I can get a keener edge with the Lansky due to the more consistent edge angle. I just haven't got a steady enough hand to do it on the Sharpmaker yet.
 
I like the Lansky system as well, have used it (the standard set) very sucessfully for years and I recommend it. The Lanskey has been a real bargain for me. I recently got a Shapmaker and have to admit that it's much faster for re-touching up a blade. The Lanskey is time consuming to set-up and use. But, I could not live without the Lanskey because often I like to really scrub a fresh new angle on a blade, either when the knife is new or its has become a little dinged up. The Sharpmaker is not good at that. The Lanskey is. With the Lanskey I recommend getting the Extra Coarse Diamond hone (about $13) and not using oil on the regular stones, because they foul rapidly when using the oil. With the Extra Coarse Diamond hone I've been able to really take a lot of meat off of big knives in a reasonable time. If you're on a budget and can afford a little extra time to deal with the jig, I think the Lanskey is the best single system to get. I do like having the Sharpmaker in addition to do faster touch-ups but they'er around $50.
 
They aren't bad for the money. I always found it to be a pain in the butt to work with though, the same with the Gatco. The Gatco sharpener has larger hones which may help reduce the chance of rolling over the edge. Once I got an EdgePro and Sharpmaker I rarely touch my Lanksy or Gatco system.
 
I have had mine for almost 20 years now and I am very satisfied with its performance I have replaced one medium stone(wore it out). I purchased the serrated edge stone and one fine diamond to finish edges. BTW I do use oil religiously but after using them I clean them with an aerosol solvent parts cleaner ,it cleans the stones to like new condition,and they are ready for the next session.I also have a set of crock sticks and a DMT ex fine sharpening card. It keeps my working knives sharp enough for me.
 
I like my Lansky set. It is all diamond, fine, medium, and coarse. I use oil with all of the metal/diamond stones. Oil does not effect them to my knowledge. I finish with the fine stone, and then use a leather strop to get it well into shaving range.
 
Thanks for all your comments and I'm glad to see some endorsements. I've got a good set of crock sticks and they work reasonably well but I'm just not real consistant with any freehand sharpening method. The Lasnkey holds the angle mechanically and that's what I need help with. Thanks again and Happy Holidays.
 
The only thing I don't care for is the clamp will leave a mark on the blade. I put a piece of tape on all of my blades which helps but it still leaves a mark sometimes.
 
Lansky sits in the box, haven't used it in 5 years or more.

I still use the Sharpmaker for the kitchen knives,(for a quick touch up).

The EdgePro for a reprofile jobs, and bench stones, freehand for the bulk of my sharpening.
 
TIR brought up my only problem with it. It will leave a mark on the back of the blade where the clamp contacts it. I have not tried to remove the scuff mark but what ever is used will be noticible so I just leave the marks and and clamp it in the same place every time.
 
I've bought several sharpening systems, and while I really LOVE the Spyderco Sharpmaker, there are times when the Lansky system is needed for certain blades.

As an example, I love tanto point blades, and find sharpening them on any other system... "sub-optimal."

The Lansky system is very good, a reasonable value, and has its good and bad points. My biggest beef with the system is the lack of convenience. Its s a great product though.

Cheers.
 
I love mine. My Father gave me a basic set.
I have worn out 1 medium stone, then purchased the
medium diamond stone.
It does everything I have tried with it.
It does scuff some blades though, as stated above.
My remedy for that was to dip the guilty ends of the clamp
in Plasti-cote. This is a thick liquid sold in a can.
It comes in a few differant colors (i used black).
It dries to a rubbery coating. It is made for hand tools.
Can be found at auto parts stores. Heck, probably even at
Wally World.
 
Originally posted by Keyman

It does scuff some blades though, as stated above.
My remedy for that was to dip the guilty ends of the clamp
in Plasti-cote.
Click to expand...

Thats a damn good idea. Thanks!
 
The Lansky has two things on the downside. The first is that it is slow and cumbersome to use. The second is that you need to regrind the bevels of your blade to one of the set angles on the system before you begin sharpening since the angle isn't infinitely adjustable. On the positive side, it works extremely well and, if you grind the bevels properly, you will eventually get the blades as sharp as they can be. I recommend it to every one who wants a sharpening system in that price range. Go with the Deluxe set. It has an extra coarse stone to help you speed up the bevel grinding process. Take care.
 
I don't believe that the Plasti-coat will change the sharpening angle it just necessitates that the clamp is opened probably an additional 1/8 inch and the clamp doesn't affect the sharpening angles to that critical of a degree. there are several other variables that will affect it more IE the guide rod connection to stone, wear of the stones.
 
Crayola posted this on another thread, but I thought a picture would help.

The problem with the clamp systems is the edge bevel angle changes as you move away from the clamp. If it is a small blade there isn't much difference. But on large blades you need one of two things - 1) keep moving the clamp or 2) not get picky about the angle.

Here a picture to demonstrate:

gatco.gif


As you can see the angle is going to change. How much is based on the length of the blade, the belly shape, where you clamp it, etc.

Also you can see that each time you use it, you have to clamp at the same spot or you'll have to re-profile the edge.

I'm not knocking the idea of these tools. They are fine as far as they go. You just won't get the best possible edge.

Steve
 
I hadn't even given longer blades a thought. 98% of my knives are small folders with a max blade length of 4 inches I did move the clamping vise several times on my BK&T machax, it is a recurved blade and the angle can change depending on where the stone contacts the edge. I just moved it to keep the angle fairly constant and it is uniformly sharp enough for its purpose as a camp knife/hand ax.
 
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