Lansky strop and compound questions

N

nasty_nate_84

Joined
Jul 8, 2014
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72
Okay i bought a deluxe 5 piece set. Sharpens great used it once. I have bought a blue saphire polishing hone, as well as a stropping hone for this kit to get more razor sharp and mirrored desired effects. i have bought white and green buffering compounds and i plan on buying black at lowes or some place soon. Can i use multiple compounds on one stropping hone and wipe/wash it off then move to another compound? Or do i need 4 more strops to do this? Keep in ming they are like 12 bucks a piece so id rather not do that at all. Also can i use the compound on say the ultra fine hone and saphire hone, or would these clog the hones up? Any info on how to use this kit on what i have and to not use or buy anything else would be super helpful. I am using this mostly for my tac-force spring assisted milano switchblade. I know its a cheap knife, but it has a super super sharp point. And with this lansky system is pretty damn sharp. So please dont nag me on what knife im using lol, just a newb trying to get this cheap knife a 100 dollar finish.
 
Using the same strop for several different compounds is NOT going to work very well, although it 'could' be done... You'd really have to be very careful to clean off ALL trace of previous compounds. Using compound on a fine stone would be even worse.

But... what you can do, and do pretty easily and cheaply is wrap ordinary copy paper around the strop and apply your compound to that. Works fine! Then, when you are ready to change compounds, just slip on a fresh piece of paper! You can even re-use the paper as long as you be sure to use the SAME compound on it each time.

Stitchawl
 
I bought the strop and after using it/trying it felt it did little that a strop is supposed to do.
IMO it is a waste of money.
Buy or build a proper strop with the compounds you prefer.
 
Good idea about the paper stichawl i can leave one or none compound on it and get the technique honed no pun intended ha one more question whats the easiest way to sharpen the point of a knife in case it or when or dulls?
 
I just replied to your duplicate post in your other thread, so I'll just copy & paste it here (& stitchawl's post above is a good idea, BTW :thumbup: ):

nasty_nate_84 said:
Okay i bought a deluxe 5 piece set. Sharpens great used it once. I have bought a blue saphire polishing hone, as well as a stropping hone for this kit to get more razor sharp and mirrored desired effects. i have bought white and green buffering compounds and i plan on buying black at lowes or some place soon. Can i use multiple compounds on one stropping hone and wipe/wash it off then move to another compound? Or do i need 4 more strops to do this? Keep in ming they are like 12 bucks a piece so id rather not do that at all. Also can i use the compound on say the ultra fine hone and saphire hone, or would these clog the hones up? Any info on how to use this kit on what i have and to not use or buy anything else would be super helpful. I am using this mostly for my tac-force spring assisted milano switchblade. I know its a cheap knife, but it has a super super sharp point. And with this lansky system is pretty damn sharp. So please dont nag me on what knife im using lol, just a newb trying to get this cheap knife a 100 dollar finish.
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Unless you're SURE that you favor one compound over another, I'd avoid mixing them on one strop. The only time I might do it, is if the original compound is considerably finer than the one you're trying next. If going the other way (switching to a finer compound from a coarse one), the remnants of the coarse compound will dominate or overwhelm any gains that might've been achieved with the finer compound.

One can go to greater lengths to 'clean up' a simple veg-tanned leather strop by sanding it thoroughly to completely strip any old compound off. Otherwise, if trying to simply wipe it off or wash it, there'll always be leftover grit embedded in the leather.

I'd encourage you to experiment with as many compounds as you can afford, but do it using just some leather scraps instead. Find a larger piece of decent-quality veg-tanned leather, hopefully some that reasonably mimics the leather of your Lansky's stropping hone, and cut it into strips. If attempting to duplicate the footprint of the Lansky's stropping hone (should be 4" x 1/2", if it's like the rest of the hones), then it obviously won't require a very large piece of leather. Tandy or Hobby Lobby, or perhaps a saddle shop should have leather that'd work well enough. At some point, you'll hopefully find a compound or two that you know you like, and that's the time to apply it to your dedicated 'good' strops. You might even find that one or more of your 'experimental' strops works excellently, and may become your default, 'Go-to' strops for regular use (I've got a couple or three favorites that started out as such).

In the long run, I'd also encourage you to build a larger strop. Unless an edge is already very highly refined off the stones, it can sometimes be difficult to improve much upon it by stropping, and a very small strop will be all the more limited.

Edited to add:
I'd also not use compound directly applied on your hones, as some of it may become embedded and might change their behavior (for good or bad; most likely bad). Stitchawl's idea for wrapping paper around the strop would also work for the hones (I've done this before, with my Fine/UF ceramic hones in my Lansky kit, as the ceramics make a very nice & smooth backing for a paper strop). In fact, for stropping with the Lansky, this would be my preferred method, instead of using the leather stropping hone.


David
 
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nasty_nate_84 said:
Good idea about the paper stichawl i can leave one or none compound on it and get the technique honed no pun intended ha one more question whats the easiest way to sharpen the point of a knife in case it or when or dulls?
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Assuming you'll be using your Lansky for it, I've sharpened tips using edge-leading strokes directly perpendicular to the cutting edge near the tip. Go about it very carefully and methodically, else it's very easy for the hone to slip off the tip and bend it or otherwise damage the point. If the tip becomes rounded off (around the previously pointed tip, from the spine around to the cutting edge), it's best to use a coarser stone to file down the spine until it once again intersects the cutting edge at a clean & sharp point.


David
 
Yeah i did my first polish here. I'm pleased with it, using the paper method using #1 (heavy duty black), #2 (regular normal black), #4(light white ), and #5(green high gloss). Im pleased with the polished look, its mirrored. But it seems loke i dulled it somehow down the line of sharpening it. Its sharp just not as sharp as i want it to be. Maybe i just need more practice. And to hone my my technique down better? Hopefully ill get it soon i also scratched my blade up a bit today sharpening it :(. I used black electrician tape. I dont think i cared for it, thought painters tape worked better. But hell its a seven dollar knife lol. If i can ever figure out how to get it sharp enough to shave my face i can probably sell it dor thirty bucks still. Im using a 17 degree angle it doesnt seem sharp enough and wont stay sharp. Should i be using say 20, or 25? Then stropping it at the same angle? I want it to at least pop hair and i havent found out how to do thos yet. Say if im changing angles do i need to profile by starting from course to ultra fine, to saphire, to strop, to compounds everytime? Any help would super awesome.
 
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nasty_nate_84 said:
Yeah i did my first polish here. I'm pleased with it, using the paper method using #1 (heavy duty black), #2 (regular normal black), #4(light white ), and #5(green high gloss). Im pleased with the polished look, its mirrored. But it seems loke i dulled it somehow down the line of sharpening it. Its sharp just not as sharp as i want it to be. Maybe i just need more practice. And to hone my my technique down better? Hopefully ill get it soon i also scratched my blade up a bit today sharpening it :(. I used black electrician tape. I dont think i cared for it, thought painters tape worked better. But hell its a seven dollar knife lol. If i can ever figure out how to get it sharp enough to shave my face i can probably sell it dor thirty bucks still. Im using a 17 degree angle it doesnt seem sharp enough and wont stay sharp. Should i be using say 20, or 25? Then stropping it at the same angle? I want it to at least pop hair and i havent found out how to do thos yet. Say if im changing angles do i need to profile by starting from course to ultra fine, to saphire, to strop, to compounds everytime? Any help would super awesome.
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A LOT of variables there. I'm assuming you used the tape to try to keep the blade from slipping in the clamp? If it was slipping, that'd obviously create a problem in maintaining the angle, and therefore leaving a dull or incompletely-apexed edge.

And being a 'cheap' knife, there's never any guarantee the steel will take or hold a fine edge. Your mention that 'it won't stay sharp' likely hints at that a bit. Could also be a flimsy burr that's rolling over quickly in use.

In trying to get it to shave, you'll have to make absolutely sure to:

  • Guarantee the blade doesn't move in the clamp.
  • Sharpen at the lowest angle possible, in the clamp. Even if the steel won't hold the edge, shaving sharpness will verify the steel is capable of at least taking a fine edge, AND also verify the setup and technique is good. The vast majority of even 'cheap' steels will at least get this far, though many won't hold the edge for long. I have a cheap kitchen knife that will take a wicked shaving edge, but then rolls over if I look at it the wrong way, pretty much. ;)
  • For stropping, I'd start as simple as possible, without trying multiple compounds. Take the edge as far as you can in polish on the hones (through your finest hone), and then use something like the green to strop it afterwards. Most 'cheap' stainless steels will at least respond to green compound, but more aggressive black and white compounds can often be too aggressive for them, resulting in an over-polished and dull apex.

Don't know if I've hit all the bases, but that should give you something to run with for now. :)


David
 
nasty_nate_84 said:
So whats the best angle
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It's generally safe to shoot for 30° inclusive, with most decent steels. But what's 'best' is also going to depend on how a knife is used, and how the steel will hold up to that. More often than not, it'll come down to using the knife for a while and then making adjustments to the angle on subsequent sharpenings, to get performance and durability to a level you can live with. I suggested going as low as possible with your clamp setting, because you'll get a better idea of the steel's capacity to hold an edge at a lower angle. If it's not durable, you can re-sharpen with a microbevel at a slightly wider angle, and test it again.

The angle settings on the Lansky clamp are only accurate (or roughly so) as measured at the immediate front edge of the clamp's jaws (I measured this with mine). With the blade edge actually extending further out from there, the actual sharpening angle will be lower than the marked setting implies. As a ballpark point of reference, a blade edge that extends about 3/8" in front of the clamp's jaws will sharpen up at close to ~15° per side (30° inclusive), when using the '17' setting on the clamp. Wider blades that extend further out will sharpen up at angles even lower. That's something to keep in mind, when setting up your blade in the clamp.


David
 
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Cool thanks man, last night i got it sooooo sharp scary sharp. But, it had some scratches on the edge where i didn't get the "perfect" polish. So being the OCD psychopath that I am. I decided to practice on it. I started back to the medium hone. Then back down to ultra fine, I still have yet to receive my strope, and saphire hone. Idk if i rolled it during sharpening, or if I rolled it during compound buffering. But i dulled it, compared to what it was anyways i got it to shave my hair last night. I dont think i sharpened it evenly Ill dull it down again, take it to a 30 degree as you suggested. The hardest part for me is to keep it consistent, I need some kind of consistency. How much pressure should i be putting on for the sharpening (med) prezsure? And light pressure/rubbing for the ultra fine, saphire, strop, and then buffing last? But the good news is i got the mirror finish down its pretty, pretty, pretty. The steel is 440 stainless so its not the crappiest metal out. What are some suggestions on the polishing and stropping? To not dull ot after i sharpen it.? Ill post another pick later of my polish i did today. Its a seven dollar knife so im not too worried about it just using it for practice. Whats the best way to clean these hones? Tp keep them from clogging up?
 
nasty_nate_84 said:
Cool thanks man, last night i got it sooooo sharp scary sharp. But, it had some scratches on the edge where i didn't get the "perfect" polish. So being the OCD psychopath that I am. I decided to practice on it. I started back to the medium hone. Then back down to ultra fine, I still have yet to receive my strope, and saphire hone. Idk if i rolled it during sharpening, or if I rolled it during compound buffering. But i dulled it, compared to what it was anyways i got it to shave my hair last night. I dont think i sharpened it evenly Ill dull it down again, take it to a 30 degree as you suggested. The hardest part for me is to keep it consistent, I need some kind of consistency. How much pressure should i be putting on for the sharpening (med) prezsure? And light pressure/rubbing for the ultra fine, saphire, strop, and then buffing last? But the good news is i got the mirror finish down its pretty, pretty, pretty. The steel is 440 stainless so its not the crappiest metal out. What are some suggestions on the polishing and stropping? To not dull ot after i sharpen it.? Ill post another pick later of my polish i did today. Its a seven dollar knife so im not too worried about it just using it for practice. Whats the best way to clean these hones? Tp keep them from clogging up?
Click to expand...

I'd keep pressure as light as possible. Ordinarily, with freehand sharpening, pressure that's moderately heavy shouldn't be a big deal while doing the initial shaping of the bevels (then lighter for refining). But with the clamped setup, there's some risk of the blade pivoting up/down or slipping in the clamp if you lean into it too much (I've done this, which is why I'm mentioning it). Lighter pressure is always a good idea, and definitely better when refining the edge; should be finishing with feather-light touch at the very end, on the polishing hones and stropping stages.

For polishing, make sure to completely erase the previous grit's grind marks on each successive stage. It's pretty easy to overlook coarser scratches left by earlier stages, until they start being revealed during later polishing steps; then they'll stand out like a sore thumb. It'll be almost impossible to remove them all in the end stages alone, and will require going back in grit a step or two (or three) to clean them up. Having said that, I wouldn't worry about it too much, so long as the edge gets fully apexed from the beginning and is fully sharp. The leftover scratches are essentially just cosmetic anyway.

As for not dulling it after sharpening, that's completely up to you and how you use it. Only real way to not dull a sharp knife is to not use it at all. They all will dull a bit in use, but it's not a big deal if you keep up with maintenance on it. Stropping can usually handle most daily maintenance, unless you're using the knife very hard. In fact, after the edge is newly finished, that's the time to start carefully testing your stropping compounds and working on that technique. With the right compound, stropping can handle quite a bit by itself, until some touches on the finishing hones may be needed. It's usually not necessary to go all the way back to coarse hones, unless the edge is completely destroyed, requiring new bevels.

Scrub the hones with some dish detergent & water, and a toothbrush. Do this regularly (I'd do it after each session), or it'll be harder to unclog them if they go too long without being cleaned. Using the hones with some water (or water + dish detergent) can do a lot to keep them from clogging up in the first place.


David
 
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