Lansky System?

[Swoop03]

Alright, I've been confused by this for ever now. I've looked for it but never found an answer.
On the lansky system with its numbers on the back reading: 30, 25, 20, and 17
Are those degrees a per-side or inclusive number. So like for the 20* is it 20 per side or 20 overall making it 10 per side? I want to think its an inclusive number because I sharpen all my knives to the 20 mark and generally it thins the edge out a bit on most of my knives.
All these people always talk about their edges being 30 inclusive with a 40 microbevel for example and I'm like...I used the 17 setting on my lansky :foot:

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

Alright, I've been confused by this for ever now. I've looked for it but never found an answer.
On the lansky system with its numbers on the back reading: 30, 25, 20, and 17
Are those degrees a per-side or inclusive number. So like for the 20* is it 20 per side or 20 overall making it 10 per side? I want to think its an inclusive number because I sharpen all my knives to the 20 mark and generally it thins the edge out a bit on most of my knives.
All these people always talk about their edges being 30 inclusive with a 40 microbevel for example and I'm like...I used the 17 setting on my lansky :foot:

I don't have a Lansky but calculate angles using pic from the product page - arm side ~3cm
1. riser side to 17* hole (length from hole to hole, the base of an isosceles triangle) ~1.75cm => I get 34 degrees.
2. riser side to 30* hole ~3cm => 60 degrees.

If the blade extend 0.5cm (relative to pic, not actual) out from the clamp, using 30* degree hole => sharpening at 51* inclusive angle.

So holes on the riser are degrees per side.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The marked settings on the Lansky clamp are 'per side', so the '17' would imply 34° inclusive, the '20' implies a 40° inclusive, and so on.

Having said that, the actual angle you get will depend on how far the edge is from the front of the clamp. The marked settings reflect the angle measured at the immediate front edge of the clamp (I measured & calculated to verify this, on my own clamp). So, when the edge of the blade is further out, the angle will be somewhat lower than the marked setting implies. Very wide blades, like large kitchen knives, will sharpen up at angles much lower (by several degrees) than the marked setting implies.

BTW, you can get very close to a ~30° inclusive angle (15°/side) on the '17' setting by positioning the blade edge about ~5/8" or so from the front edge of the clamp. This is pretty easy to do with blades that are found in most midsize-to-large folders.

The only accurate way to truly know what angle you're getting, is to measure and/or calculate for it, with the blade set up in the clamp.


David

 

[Swoop03]

Thanks guys. I know the angle is just a reference number really. There is too many things that come into effect so the number must be taken with a grain of salt. I just wasn't sure if it was a per side or inclusive measurement.
Those factors are why my Para 2 has a much thinner edge than say my Kershaw chill both sharpened at the 17 setting. The PM2 probably has a 15 +/- a degree or two edge, whereas the Chill has a 17-20* edge maybe. I can't say for sure unless I take the edges to an optical comparator at the machine shop. It doesn't worry me that much though. I just like a thinner edge and if it cuts it works for me.

 

[Brad9660]

I thought I would also mention the fact that the actual angle is determined by the size of the blade. I recently got a Spyderco Sharpmaker as a gift. And after using the 20 degree Lansky setting,I was able to put a micro bevel on several different size knives using the 40 degree setting (20 degrees per side) on the Sharpmaker. So in most cases, even on a Buck 503 which is pretty narrow, spine to cutting edge, it sill tried to put a micro bevel on it, but the micro bevel was hard to do as it wanted to grind the whole bevel if I was careful. But on some other knives with a wider blade, it worked. I think the Lansky settings are a good ways off on a common sized folder. I am going to buy a digital angle cube to figure exactly what angles I am getting with my Lansky. I think on a more common sized blade like a Griptilian, or something similar, using the 20 degree setting, you are actually getting closer to 15 degrees with the Lansky. Once I get my angle cube I would like to do share my results, as I have always wondered what my actual angle is for any given knife.

 

[Swoop03]

I thought I would also mention the fact that the actual angle is determined by the size of the blade. I recently got a Spyderco Sharpmaker as a gift. And after using the 20 degree Lansky setting,I was able to put a micro bevel on several different size knives using the 40 degree setting (20 degrees per side) on the Sharpmaker. So in most cases, even on a Buck 503 which is pretty narrow, spine to cutting edge, it sill tried to put a micro bevel on it, but the micro bevel was hard to do as it wanted to grind the whole bevel if I was careful. But on some other knives with a wider blade, it worked. I think the Lansky settings are a good ways off on a common sized folder. I am going to buy a digital angle cube to figure exactly what angles I am getting with my Lansky. I think on a more common sized blade like a Griptilian, or something similar, using the 20 degree setting, you are actually getting closer to 15 degrees with the Lansky. Once I get my angle cube I would like to do share my results, as I have always wondered what my actual angle is for any given knife.

I just resharpened my griptilian 550 and with the clamp about halfway up the hole, it was almost perfect for the 20* hole on the lansky. I don't know off hand what BM uses from the factory but I'll have to remember where I clamped on. That knife is one of the few where I'm happy with the factory bevel. I normally use the lansky to thin it out, then thin it further by hand till I'm happy. Like I said, I don't really care what the angle is on them, the thinner the better for my edc purposes. Though I do like the griptilian from factory. I've been happy with both of mine. That would be a really neat project to. Take a couple knives and measure the angle and where you clamped them just to know what exactly it is. Also I never cared for microbevels till I got a few S30V blades lol. Most of mine are 8CR or Aus 8, S30V is known for a terrible wire edge and rolling so that mirco bevel is almost a must for that steel.