Lansky Turn Box, 20 or 25 for whittling?

G

george c

Joined
Jan 26, 2013
Messages
66
Hi Folks,
New here. I have several pocket knives that I want to use for whittlin'. Yes, 1095 and SS.
Should I use the 20 or 25 degree for whittling?
Also, should I start with the medium and go to the fine, or if the knives are fairly sharp just use the fine?
I looked around here and didn't see this question asked.
Got the Lansky system in today and haven't used it yet. Watched a couple of videos on YouTube that didn't seem to answer my questions.
Will appreciate all comments and suggestions from you folks.
Thanks for your help.
Regards,
George
 
It is pretty much personal preference. A 20° edge will get a little sharper but lose it quicker, a 25° is considered a good working edge angle. When I got my Lansky it took a while to figure a technique that worked for me. Yes, if yer only touching up an edge use fine but it the blade is pretty bad start from the beginning. One thing to remember with that system is you don't necessarily have to do a set amount of strokes, do it until there's a burr. Good luck and just try it. Oh yeah, put blue tape on the blade so it doesn't scratch
 
You might just start out with the thinner angle (20), and see how your edges perform and hold up. Assuming a given steel and blade grind can support it, a thinner edge (and thinner blades, overall) seem to be favored among woodcarvers and whittling fans. If the edge holds up fairly well, you may not feel the need to use the thicker edge setting on the Turn Box. On the other hand, if the edge seems to dull/roll too quickly, then a 25° microbevel may make the edge a little more durable.

It's normal convention to use the 2-grit progression (medium, then fine) on the angled-rod systems. But again, it's basically up to you to decide if you use both or not. The cutting performance of your blades will determine that; if the edge seems pretty dull (blunt) and in need of significant re-shaping, then start with the medium rods. If it's cutting pretty decently, and just needs a light tune-up after some use, the fine rods usually will be enough for that. No need to go coarser than necessary, unless the fine rods just aren't quite getting the job done.

Don't worry too much about over-grinding your edges. Any of the ceramic rod systems won't be aggressive enough to do any real damage by heavy removal of metal, so don't be shy about using both grits and getting acquainted with how the system works. It won't take long to figure out where to start, after you've used it a little bit.


David
 
One more bit of advice:
watch out for the tip of the blade as you pull back and down on the rods. It's easy to go a little too far, and round the point. I often have to sharpen up the very tip of the knife on a stone after using the rods.
I never use tape, because I think a scratch or two gives a whittling knife character, but to each his own:)
 
Eafisher and David,
Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to my request for help with the Lansky sharpener.
Well, I started with my Buck 303. One of the smaller blades seemed a little sharp as well as the main blade. I used the fine rods at 20 degrees and there was a big improvement testing on paper and bass wood. The spey blade was pretty dull. The fine didn't seem to do the trick. Used the medium rods and then the fine and great improvement.
It was interesting with the paper. One blade seemed partially sharp and partially dull.... Part of the blade was sharp and part dull. So, back to the rods.
I have a stone that is 35 years old or so...and hasn't been used in about the same amount of time. I was trying to find something easier to use. I think that with some practice this "system" might be all I need...At least I hope so.
Anyway, again thanks so much for your help. This surely is a nice forum "community."
Regards,
George
 
R8Shell.....
As I typed the above response you were posting.
Thanks for the "tip." Greatly appreciated.
Regards,
George
 
The turnbox was my firs sharpening system and I still use it for certain applications. I ended up making a new box from a 2x4 with more angle options. 10, 12.5, 15, 20, and 25 degrees per side. But I've since moved to much more freehand sharpening so the angle options are unlimited. :)
I like to sharpen my buck knives around 27 degrees total and do a 30 degree microbevel. That puts them screaming sharp and perfect for whittling. And a little stropping goes a long way
 
Just to be clear, this is the Lansky Turn Box that George is referring to:


lanskyturnbox_zpsfeea8635.jpg



lanskeyturnbox2_zps34e92cba.jpg
 
I have the turn box and it has served me well. For carving (considering it's a good knife) I'd go 20° per side.I still found it to be obtuse so I got the sharpmaker.
 
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