Lansky vs ceramic rod

Joined
Aug 27, 2013
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8
Hello,
I cannot hold the right angle at sharpening knifes so I bought Lansky set.. For the maintenance of the edge I bought ceramic rod (with about 1000+- grit) and there happens the same... I was thinking that the ceramic is a whetstone so it removes material. So I could maintain my knifes also on lansky with the last white whetstone which is also about 1000+- grit and the same job would get done.. Am I correct? Thanks
Btw. sorry for my bad english :)
 
The ceramic rod will remove material (steel) from the edge. BUT, being a ceramic, it'll do that very slowly. Ceramics are better-suited for edge touch-ups and refinement, such as polishing. If re-bevelling is the goal, something coarser is a better choice. That could be a diamond hone, or the extra-coarse, coarse or medium hones in the Lansky kit. The Fine (600) and UF (1000) hones in the Lansky kit are also ceramics, and will perform similarly to the ceramic rod.

If you get the Lansky kit, the ceramic rod would likely be redundant. In other words, you won't likely be able to do any more with the ceramic rod, if you've already used the Lansky kit through the UF (1000) hone.

Ceramic rods are quite handy for spur-of-the-moment freehand touch-ups. Being that the Lansky set is a little more tedious to set up & use, the convenience of the ceramic rod may be more attractive to you. Just keep in mind that it won't likely improve anything in edge quality, over the finishing hones in the Lansky kit.


David
 
Wow, awesome response!
But Im not sure I understand. I used this ceramic rod to restore the original "edge" (its sharpness) and it works pretty good.For example my Endura could barely cut paper so I used it on this ceramic rod, then stropped on a leather and the knife was shaving again. So the same thing will happen here with the Lansky UF stone? I just dont want to remove too much material for nothing.
Lot of people continue after 1000 grit to 2000, is that uselful? I somewhere read that the finer stone is used the longer the knife stays sharp.
 
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Wow, awesome response!
But Im not sure I understand. I used this ceramic rod to restore the original "edge" (its sharpness) and it works pretty good.For example my Endura could barely cut paper so I used it on this ceramic rod, then stropped on a leather and the knife was shaving again. So the same thing will happen here with the Lansky UF stone? I just dont want to remove too much material for nothing.
Lot of people continue after 1000 grit to 2000, is that uselful? I somewhere read that the finer stone is used the longer the knife stays sharp.

Ceramics, as a group, are generally very 'fine' in aggressiveness, as compared to other types of hones, like oilstones or diamond hones. But, there is enough variability in aggressiveness that one ceramic will remove more material than another. Coarser ceramics are usually brown/grey in color, and the Fine/UF ceramics are usually white. There are some 'white' or 'off-white' ceramics that are coarser, though. The Lansky white (1000) is closer to the Fine/UF end of that spectrum. And the Lansky 600 hone is more like a Fine. It's possible the ceramic rod may be somewhat coarser than either of those, so it's not surprising if you found it to work pretty quickly.

I have the Lansky 600 and 1000 ceramic hones. Both tend to start polishing in use, so they aren't quite as aggressive in metal removal. In my use of them, the 600 produces a hazy mirror finish, and the 1000 can get it very close to true mirror. I haven't tried the 2000 ('Super Sapphire') hone, though I'd assume it should take the finish another step beyond. I've seen some comments here, that suggest it's actually a little more aggressive than the 1000. But I don't have the benefit of seeing from what context that comment came.

There is lots of debate about whether a more highly-finished edge lasts longer or not. So much depends on so many other factors (steel type, hardness, grain structure, abrasives used, how the knife is used, on what materials, etc.). So making a firm statement either way is somewhat meaningless anyway. Just depends on the individual knife and user, for the most part. That's why it's more important to try different sharpening strategies over the course of time, and figure out what works best for you, with your knives.


David
 
Jilson, just use the Endura which is VG10 right? And sharpen away all you want to however sharp you need it. There is more than enough steel on that blade for a decade of sharpening and use.
 
Yes I guess itll be best to just experiment what is best... If after 1000 stone and stropping it the knife shaves, I guess its pointless to polish it also with 2000stone.. Btw VG-10 is so haaaaaard to sharpen... Im thinking of selling it and returning to my Ontario Rat-1.. It does not hold its sharpness that long but its very easy to sharpen it..
 
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