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saylorbrand

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Jun 8, 2008
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I bought a lansky deluxe sharpening system,and i messed with it on a couple knives. It was ok, but I don't know the best way to get the top of the blade. I did a quick job on the sebenza and looked like a quick job. still would not shave, like every other knife I tried would. My para-D2 shaves. The sbenza is one tuff sucker to sharpen.
 
S30V is very hard to sharpen with one of those. Once you think you are about halfway done, keep going for another hour - then you will be halfway done. ;)
 
Return the Lanksy kit and use the money to buy yourself a fine (Red) DMT diamond stone and also get a strop with the green compound. S30V is not match for DMT.

SB
 
saylorbrand said:
I bought a lansky deluxe sharpening system,and i messed with it on a couple knives. It was ok, but I don't know the best way to get the top of the blade. I did a quick job on the sebenza and looked like a quick job. still would not shave, like every other knife I tried would. My para-D2 shaves. The sbenza is one tuff sucker to sharpen.
Click to expand...

Lansky hones can be purchased individually. You don't necessarily need a full diamond set, since you've already got a clamp and rods. You can supplement your standard set with a couple (or three) Lansky diamond hones. At a minimum, get yourself a Coarse and Medium. If you're willing to spend the money, get an Extra Coarse also. The Coarse will be sufficient to do most of the grunt work to raise a burr and/or ensure that the bevels on each side are converging sharply at the edge. Use a magnifier to inspect the edge frequently and closely. Once you've done that, you can use the Medium to begin refining the edge and removing most of the heavy burr, if any. Once that's done, you can finish the job with the standard hones (Med/Fine/UF). With all hones, use relatively light pressure. Let the grit do the work, and don't rush. Be patient, especially with S30V (it will take longer). If you take your time and use light pressure, you should begin to see a mirror finish with the Fine hone (purple ceramic in the blue holder). With all hones, I use water to lubricate. Works fine, and cleans up much easier than oil.

Stropping afterwards with green compound on leather helps too.
 
You might wanna buy the extra coarse stone. Or return the set you bought and spend a few more dollars to get the diamond set.

But if your set on keeping it, just keep plucking away at it.
Make sure to check your edge using the sharpie trick.

And remember the first time you re-profile a blade to match any pre set angle sharpening system can take a little while, and can sometimes be a Pain in the butt.

But once you get your bevel matched up with whatever angle setting you picked, touch up's are a breeze!
 
yes the tip, and I don't have a whole lot of cash to buy a lot of diamond stones. but i'll try to find them. but best technique to sharpen the tip?
 
saylorbrand said:
yes the tip, and I don't have a whole lot of cash to buy a lot of diamond stones. but i'll try to find them. but best technique to sharpen the tip?
Click to expand...

I'm extra careful about keeping the direction of motion of the hone directly perpendicular to the edge when doing the tip of the blade. I avoid sweeping the hone along the length of the edge (tip to heel, or vice-versa), because, in my experience, I'll end up rounding or blunting the tip if I do it that way. It's too easy to run the hone off the tip when moving in that direction (heel to tip), and it's also easy to bump into/snag the tip when moving the other way (tip to heel). Using slow, very controlled, light strokes while moving the hone directly into the edge (directly toward the upper arm of the clamp) is, for me, the best way to do it.

More often than not, the sharpening angle at the tip will be more acute than elsewhere along the edge (because the clamp is further away from the tip). You'll need to remove more metal there (producing a wider bevel), to make each side of the bevel converge completely and sharply at the edge. Take your time, and it greatly helps to use magnification to closely inspect the edge (especially the tip) as you go.

With most blades, your regular Lansky set will do. Just be prepared to take extra time to get it done. Patience is key. If you do invest in a diamond hone, even if it's just one, get the Extra Coarse. It's the one that must do the most work (removing most of the metal). After that, you're essentially smoothing and polishing the bevel that you've created. That can still be done with your standard hones.
 
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